[badgx]

hmmm. Maybe Badgx could weigh in on this one...he's the guru....


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Me a guru, woohoo :smokin:

 

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If you use to much heat when soldering its quite easy to burn out the tracks (or whatever your suppose to call them) on a pcb.

 

[BigIan]

I replaced mine as per badgx's tutorial in October 2012. At first they were a dark blue, but have bleached since now they look just like this

I guess I'll change the "condoms" again - but thinking about using blue glass paint.

 

[sinc1ok]

Hi Badgx
I'll try what you suggest and also upload a photo when i can. i have ordered another unit from USA so I'll see if this will be compatible first befor I attempt soldering again.
Jay

 

[badgx]

Following on from my write up, I have ordered some LED halo rings and also pre wired 12v LED's for an LED solution.

For this you will need 2X 40mm LED halo rings & 2X 50mm LED halo rings (12V), 3X 12v pre wired LED. I chose to go with brilliant white to match the LED colour of the electric heated seat switch mod I done a while back.

This is how it goes and its easy to do with basic tools.

Follow previous steps, how to distmantle the Dual Zone Climate Control Unit. Discard the optical light distributor lens as shown below and de-solder the filemant bulbs at PL1, PL2, PL3, PL4 and PL5. The filament bulbs need to be removed. Prepare and clean the circuit board with braid.

This is no longer required for an LED solution.

Here we go

On the reverse side of the Dual Zone Climate Control Panel, offer up the 40mm halo rings to the two middle perch. Make sure the halo rings are facing the correct way. See photo for illustration.

Using hot glue gun, glue the halo ring to its relevant perch. See photo for illustration.

A close up photo of the 40mm halo rings seated and glued nicely onto its perch.

Then for the 2X 40mm halos, solder the wires to PL2 and PL4, respectively. See photo for illustration.

When done, move on to do the 2X 50mm halos.

Offer and line up the 50mm Halo's onto its perch.

Will look like this, make sure the LED's are facing the correct way.

Then using hot glue gun, glue the 50mm halos to its perch and solder the wire to PL1 and PL5, respectively.
You only need to apply a bead of hot glue to secure it to its perch as shown in the photo.

This is how it looks illuminated with the halo rings installed.

OPTIONAL - To get the 3 buttons illuminated for the a/c, demister, recirculate

Make a note of the buttons and their relative positions
The buttons are clipped in from the back. Using a flat head screw driver unclip the buttons and remove with care. TAKE CARE NOT TO BREAK THE CLIPS.

Get 3X pre wired 12v led's of your choice

Line up LED and place the LED inside the button, making sure the LED is facing towards the inside as shown below.

Using hot glue, apply small amount and glue LED in place. Do not use too much, otherwise the button will not refit, see photo for illustration.

Ready to be reinstalled. Noticed how the LED are put together.

Refit the buttons into their relevant position, the buttons will click back in place.

Trim back any excess wire to length and connect ALL the positives (red) wires together. Do the same with ALL the negatives (black) wire.

Then solder all the 3 positive (red) wires to the relative PL3 (+) and all the 3 negative (black) wire to PL3 (-). See Polarity reference.

The halo rings and LED's are directional, so after when you soldered and find that it did not illuminated, de-solder and reverse the polarity.

This is how it looks

Another close up, with the A/C, demister and recirculate button illuminated and switch to on.

POLARITY REFERENCE
Please see photo below for polarity reference

 

[pioneer]

I like your idea here, but with out the plastic light distributor you don't get light to the AC/rear defrost/ air circulation indicators lights or the knobs. If you can mod the light distributor to hold the halos I think that would work better. I used leds in mine and had to direct them to shine at the light distributor to light everything up. I didn't take a pic of it in process but here a completed pic.
Pretty much changed all the lights and the window switch lights to.. Put a pink gel sheet behind the radio to make it white..

 

[badgx]

Thanks pioneer. Do you have a photo of your circuit board. Have a look at the circuit board on mine, its the later one with 5 filament bulbs, so found it difficult to get the whole board to light up with LEDs without cold spots :yup:

Yours look nice, how and what did you use do yours and the radio?

I'm waiting for the remaining halos and some 3 LEDs for the AC/rear defrost/ air circulation buttons and some LEDs for the clock too.

 

[pioneer]

Thanks pioneer. Do you have a photo of your circuit board. Have a look at the circuit board on mine, its the later one with 5 filament bulbs, so found it difficult to get the whole board to light up with LEDs without cold spots :yup:

Yours look nice, how and what did you use do yours and the radio?

I'm waiting for the remaining halos and some 3 LEDs for the AC/rear defrost/ air circulation buttons and some LEDs for the clock too.

No pic of the circuit board, sorry.. It is difficult to get the light distributed. I used these

I removed them from the base and soldered them on to the board. I think I used 2 for each bulb location then bent them and positioned them to shine on the clear plastic piece to carry the light to all areas. I put electric tape on the board under the leads of the leds so they didn't short out. It was time consuming to say the least..
I also swapped the base of the stock clock bulbs with these...
The radio and window switches I used 0805 Surface Mount LEDs
The door lock switchs 3528 Surface Mount PLCC-2 SMT LEDs

 

[badgx]

Post#45 updated.

Next project - to tackle anything green, window & headlight switches...lol :yup:

 

[badgx]

For ease a polarity reference has added to post#45. All the best & good luck :yup:

 

[neilrl79]

Thanks for this write-up. Just redid mine today. I'd say by the 7th bulb my soldering started to look professional. I also fixed the bulb for the hazard switch.