[Grumpy1]

magnuman said: "I think I'd first take a look at the PC Valve and replace it. "

+1
Results of a compression test are good to know, no matter what. However, before pulling heads or any more dismantling.... a PCV valve is cheap and easy... and should be replace as part of routine maintenance anyway.

 

[Grumpy1]

Following your adventure, and hoping all turns out well. That is quite the can of worms you've opened!

Forged pistons rule so far as strength goes, while cast pistons will last the longest and are quiet. There's a third which I don't hear much talk of... hypoeutectic pistons.

I put a set into a small block Chevy some years back. The gent building the motor for me said they'd take a 50-shot of nitrous and hold up well. They were stronger than cast but didn't have the short life and high clearance of forged. A happy medium if you will. I never put nitrous on them, and had to sell the car long before anything wore so can only say they seemed well suited for that build.

Don't know your plans, and didn't want to highjack your thread... just figure to mention that there's a third option to look into...

 

[Grumpy1]

"I thought the factory stock ones were hypo... "

LMAO... after posting, I started thinking about how long ago that small block was built... and wondering if such pistons hadn't become main stream in performance engines...

You're likely correct, and I'm very outdated.

 

[Grumpy1]

Sorry to hear about the covid... not much of a Xmas gift.

Glad your back on the project, albeit with diminished capacity. That brand of coolant isn't one I've seen before... Is it a HOAT coolant, and not one of those 'all car' flavors?

Happy New Year!

 

[Grumpy1]

"Maybe I should use a running in oil? "

Don't think your gaining by using synthetic for such a short period. Conventional and synthetic are compatible, so no worries about residual after a change. If the savings is sufficient, then doing so is fine IMO.

"the "red" HOAT coolant is what I want... "

Yes! Just replace my radiator and was reminded to see that only HOAT was used. Think the aluminum heads are the primary reason, but also that the different coolants don't mix. There are many threads of cottage cheese in the system as a result. In any event, best to keep it simple and just use what oem calls for.

"...with plain water and whatever coolant flush I can find... "

Didn't use any flush myself. The system was clean, no sludge or clumps, and that flush can be aggressive... If there's a need, then by all means. If you're just chasing old coolant out of the system, save your money and just repeat flushes. When it's time for the final fill, be sure to use distilled water.

During my repair, I realized draining from the radiator petcock was only releasing about half the system. So picked up a dozen gallons of distilled water, and drained what was possible... topped it off and drove a while, cool down & repeat. The weather was warm, so no worries about freezing. Did it during the week, so by the following weekend, there wasn't a hint of coolant remaining. It also affored me a chance to see the system was tight beforing adding coolant.

There's a product here in the state called Marvel Mystery Oil. Honestly, I use it cause Grandpa did. He insisted that my father use it at every oil change and now I do also. I even keep a bottle in the boot and put a few ounces in the tank when gassing up. If it's available by you and not too costly... it's brought me good luck thru the years and surely couldn't hurt

 

[Grumpy1]

"...if I can work out how to get it out! "
Simple enough...
two bolts & unplug the fan assembly. Tilt back & lift up...

Use some cord to secure the condenser to the top plate so it can hang on it's own.
That way, there's no need to disconnect or stress the AC lines.

Four bolts free the condenser from the radiator.

Loosen the four bolts for the lower radiator support. If the car is high enough, some prefer to remove it completely and drop the radiator out the bottom. Mine, I found it helpful to just loosen it a bit and tip the radiator back and out the top.

There are upper radiator mounts, some air shields, and other bits that are obvious.... There wasn't a need to remove the power steering cooler lines on mine, just tucked them to the side... and then you can flush till your hearts content.

Oh, and the drain petcock can pull out if turned more than 1/4... there's just an o-ring which might be prudent to replace. For so many times as my system was drained during all those flushes.. the petcock was routinely removed to expedite the process, though it did get a bit messy...lol

edit to add: Just recalled your front bumper cover is still on. It needs to come off, Two small screw up into the fender on each side, and the screws to the lower splash cover...some xmas tree plugs.... very quick process. Set some cardboard down, lay it back to unplug the lights...

 

[Grumpy1]

"...trimmed that spacer and unknowingly left myself with no tension on the oil rings..."
As one who often rationalizes some... not so correct actions, I appreciate your sharing this tid bit. It's nice to be alone...lol

 

[Grumpy1]

"it loses its internet connection over night.... "
That sound like a power saver option or a glitch in the sleep recovery. That sleep or hybernate state has never worked out around here. Windows seems to run best when booted fresh and with the speed of SSD's, boot time is in seconds. Good Luck