[Grumpy1]

Following your adventure, and hoping all turns out well. That is quite the can of worms you've opened!

Forged pistons rule so far as strength goes, while cast pistons will last the longest and are quiet. There's a third which I don't hear much talk of... hypoeutectic pistons.

I put a set into a small block Chevy some years back. The gent building the motor for me said they'd take a 50-shot of nitrous and hold up well. They were stronger than cast but didn't have the short life and high clearance of forged. A happy medium if you will. I never put nitrous on them, and had to sell the car long before anything wore so can only say they seemed well suited for that build.

Don't know your plans, and didn't want to highjack your thread... just figure to mention that there's a third option to look into...

 

[Smackeyacky]

Following your adventure, and hoping all turns out well. That is quite the can of worms you've opened!

Forged pistons rule so far as strength goes, while cast pistons will last the longest and are quiet. There's a third which I don't hear much talk of... hypoeutectic pistons.

...
Don't know your plans, and didn't want to highjack your thread... just figure to mention that there's a third option to look into...

I thought the factory stock ones were hypo but I'm still learning. Lots of surprises with this car. Now I am down to the block and rotating parts I feel like I am in familiar territory. Engine should be coming out this weekend.

 

[Grumpy1]

"I thought the factory stock ones were hypo... "

LMAO... after posting, I started thinking about how long ago that small block was built... and wondering if such pistons hadn't become main stream in performance engines...

You're likely correct, and I'm very outdated.

 

[magnuman]

It really depends on your ultimate plans for the vehicle and your pocketbook. Going "all in" is not an inexpensive endeavor. A good set of forged pistons will run you close to $1000, U.S for Mahle or Wiseco's. If you go .020 in. over, you'll be adding the cost of re-boring, but you'll also be able to get pistons with a slightly higher compression ratio, if you desire and are going to remain normally aspirated. Then, of course, you'll want to get a performance cam, pushrods and lifters, and that'll run you another 1200-1600, U.S. You're already doing the heads at whatever cost. Once together, you'll need a tune (or tuner) and a good header back exhaust system. Those can quickly get up over $2000-3000, U.S. in a big hurry. Then, if you want to go with forced induction or NOS, you'll be spending another $600-1000 for a complete NOS system or probably $7000 plus U.S. for a complete positive or variable displacement forced induction kit.....IMO, preferably a positive displacement one. Personally, I've stayed away from forced induction and NOS because I didn't want to go to the expensive when the rotating assembly is still in great shape. If I were in your circumstances, I'd probably at least think about forced induction.

Also, if you end up getting it all, you'll need to make modifications to the transmission too, so it'll support the added power. Depending on how much power you're adding will dictate how much you'll have to do to the transmission. A shift kit and AMG shift solenoids, and tune will cost less than a complete performance overhaul. Here you're looking at about another $2000-5000, U.S.

Going to be interesting and fun to see which way you end up going with yours.

 

[Smackeyacky]

Going to be interesting and fun to see which way you end up going with yours.

I keep bouncing between going all-in or just patching it up enough to get it driving. I have only driven it 100 metres so far (was parked across the road for 6 months before I bought it). So I'm not really sure what kind of state the transmission is in. It needs brakes (rotors and pads) which are sitting on the floor waiting to go on. The clearcoat is ruined so I don't think it's really worth throwing a lot of money into it when I originally just wanted a cruiser.

I'm trying to be disciplined here and stick to the original plan. That means stock pistons I think, but I'll take some care cleaning up the block and do it properly. It's a long weekend this weekend so hopefully by Monday the block will be out. Aiming to get the 2nd cylinder head out today and assess what needs to happen to separate the engine and transmission.

One thing I am considering is shorty headers but the wiring in that engine bay seems awfully close to the exhaust. Is the extra heat in the engine bay likely to be a problem?

 

[magnuman]

"Stick to the original plan?" I don't know about you, but I have always found that to be a difficult thing to do when I am modding my vehicles. More power to you, if you can. For me, it always seemed to be, "since I am doing this, I might as well do that or, while it's apart, I might as well do this too." Heck, I've had my Hemi Magnum since new (over 18 years now) and I am still messing with it periodically, just not as much. On my Hemi Grand Cherokee Jeep, I spread the "serious" modding out over about a 10 year period, spending about $1000-1500 a year on it. Fortunately, I have them both just the way I want them now.....and that has made my wife very happy......and me too.

 

[Smackeyacky]

More power to you, if you can. For me, it always seemed to be, "since I am doing this, I might as well do that or, while it's apart, I might as well do this too." Heck, I've had my Hemi Magnum since new (over 18 years now) and I am still messing with it periodically, just not as much

Oh the temptation is definitely there but I think I would have to buy a tuner and a whole lot of other stuff if I started messing around with chasing more power. I'd rather drive it for a while stock first.

Didn't get much done on it yesterday, just tidied up the garage and assembled an engine stand. Ready for the final push to get the block out. Ordered gaskets, stock pistons, waterpump. Hopefully thats all it will need other than getting the dings in the cylinder head tidied up

 

[Smackeyacky]

Right head is off. Few more bolts and its time to wheel in the crane. Tried polishing the damaged chamber and its looking like it can be saved. Pistons undamaged on right side although I think I might have broken the #2 and #4 replacing the valve seals. Noy a lot of meat therr, perhaps its time to retire the rope trick.

 

[Smackeyacky]

...and the intake/exhaust valves in #6 are bent. Not unexpected. Can't seem to find those sensibly priced individually so it looks like I'll be replacing all the valves.

 

[Smackeyacky]

Waiting for parts is so frustrating. Bought some pistons from California and for some bizarre reason they are currently sitting in Kentucky waiting to be shipped out (I think it's a hub for Ebay international shipping). Valves are probably going through there too. The gaskets are stuck somewhere in the US as well. Will try and tidy up the paint and replace all the brakes while I'm waiting.

 

[Smackeyacky]

Still waiting for the pistons and valves to arrive from the US. Ebay global shipping is the slowest thing I have ever used. Got everything ready to lift out the motor but can't do it this weekend as have other things that need doing. edit: pistons, valves, VRS gasket set and sump gasket are finally in the country, either on the road or held up in customs. Likely will have everything next week so the fun can properly begin.

 

[Smackeyacky]

And the parts are finally all here, block is out thanks to a massive amount of help from a buddy of mine. Sump is full of piston bits and rings, although not enough to account for all the damage.

 

[Smackeyacky]

This is #6 piston, although 4 and 2 also heading this way, missing chunks. Bearings look like new.

 

[Smackeyacky]

Pretty suspicious what happened to this motor. #2 and #4 piston missing big chunks but nowhere to be found in the sump.

This is about what I expected from the #6 piston. The motor has definitely been apart before, so perhaps slapped back together with known bad parts. Buyer beware!

7

 

[Smackeyacky]

Slow progress, have been off doing other things but now into the re-assembly. The valves on #6 were both bent, replacing everything but starting on #6. Here doing a test with a bit of fuel to see if I have seated the valves properly. It's holding liquid without the springs installed and the pattern of valve lapping paste looked pretty good, so I'm going to call it good enough. The cylinder head is pretty badly beaten up but I have removed the high spots so hopefully I won't get too much detonation here. Valve seats had some slight marks on them but they have polished out enough to make a good seal.

 

[Smackeyacky]

All the valves on the drivers side head lapped, new valve seals installed and reassembled. Used a bit of assembly lube on the new valves. Other head will need doing, there was some pitting on the valve seats of the undamaged cylinders.

 

[Smackeyacky]

Reassembling passenger side head. All done. Stupid local machine shop still hasnt put my pistons on the rods, was hoping to drop the block back in today but will have to wait until next weekend.

 

[Smackeyacky]

Wrong water pump bless its little cotton socks. Later engine needs a flat impeller? This one sticks out :-(

edit: cannot buy radiator hoses in Australia. At. All. Hello RockAuto, lets see how they go with shipping.

 

[Smackeyacky]

Still waiting for parts. Got the right water pump this week, got the wrong thermostat

Pulled all the valve lifters for inspection, all in great condition thankfully. Still waiting on machine shop for pistons, radiator hoses not delivered. I am reduced to sitting in the drivers seat and making blub-blub-blub noises. Please intervene and stop me trying to port the heads out of frustration.

 

[Smackeyacky]

AAAAAAARRRGGGGG how many different water pumps are there? This one has a flush impeller, but the pulley is 10mm or more too far forward.