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Discussion Starter · #61 ·
Water pump is apparently having a holiday in Honolulu, after leaving Memphis. It might be on some kind of Elvis Presley pilgramage.

Finally got the pistons back from the machine shop. Ready to start reassembly, bought some new bearings even though it doesn't really need them.

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Discussion Starter · #62 ·
Very slow going. The cheap ring compressor I bought is next to useless on the oil control rings. Only managed to get 3 pistons in the block so far doing it by hand. Most of the weekend was lawn mowing.

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Discussion Starter · #63 · (Edited)
Two more done in my lunch hour. New ARP bolts will put those in when i am finished assembling. The shop I used marked the rods with cylinder numbers which I asked them not to do since the Haynes manual says don't do it. Not sure about their reasoning maybe it screws up the rods somehow? Also the ACL "Race" bearings are just slightly narrower than the stock ones, which is by design, but a bit strange. ACL say "less breaky" but who knows.

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Good show, keep winning streak going. You should have a good runner when done.
 
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Discussion Starter · #66 ·
Good show, keep winning streak going. You should have a good runner when done.
I hope so.

ARP bolts torqued to 45 foot pounds, ready to reinstall the sump. The instructions say I should have measured the length of the bolts and kept a record of that pre-stretched length, but I figure I will just buy more if I screw it up this time. Perhaps those instructions are for people building race motors.

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Discussion Starter · #67 ·
And the block is now ready to go back in. Gates water pump and thermostat. Sump torqued up with the approved sequence.

No excuses from here. It turns over nicely, followed instructions as close as I could, would probably be happier if I didn't use the race bearings and ARP bolts but gettings parts has been much harder than i thought.

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Discussion Starter · #68 ·
Tidied up in preparation for my buddy to help me this afternoon. All the cleanedup or refurbed parts laid out in rough reinstallation order.

Box of worn parts always seems wasteful but none of it is worth saving.

I now can't remember what we did to stop the legs from the engine stand and the cherry picker from clashing. We'll figure it out.

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Discussion Starter · #69 ·
...and its back in. The stupid metal plate that goes between the gearbox and engine gave us some grief but otherwise it went ok.

Still lots of work to do (drive plate bolts, sensors, accessories) before i drop the heads back on but it feels like good progress.

That levelling lifter is excellent, pulling the motor not so useful, but putting it back in was essential.
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Discussion Starter · #70 ·
Wish I had a photo, was too busy to try to fix the problem, but my buddy and I managed to mangle that metal plate between the engine and gearbox. We had a lot of issues with the plate falling off the dowels on the motor, and ended up pushing a bit hard. The bottom two prongs that go around the two bottom bolts got caught in the bell housing and folded inward, which mostly explains why the transmission and engine didn't want to quite mate up. Of course we didn't notice until I got under there today to get the final engine/transmission bolts back in.

Took a bit of bending and swearing to get them out of there and lined up with the bolts, but it's flat now. I was hoping to have it completely buttoned up, alternator back on and dropped back on the ground ready for the heads but no dice. If you do something stupid like us, have some fencing wire handy to catch the ends and pull them out to where they need to be. Once the tranny and engine are bolted up they flatten back out OK.
 

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Discussion Starter · #71 · (Edited)
Not sure what the staining is on the inside of the rocker covers. Got about half of it off with some isopropyl alcohol but the rest won't budge so I figure it will be ok in a running engine. Starting to go through the gasket set and replacing all the rubber that was on the car, most of it was shagged and leaking. Yep, I am procrastinating before dropping the heads back on.
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Discussion Starter · #72 ·
Slow progress again. Got a few of the bolts mixed up on the engine/transmission so spent a while moving them around and putting them in more appropriate places. Everything is good and tight now except the starter motor. Unfortunately while I was under the vehicle I noticed this bush looks completely shagged on one of the lower control arms so I figure I'll be buying suspension parts next.
 

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Discussion Starter · #73 ·
Managed to catch covid over christmas, lost a lot of days with that. Back on deck albeit still a bit wobbly.

Trying to triple check everything, nearly forgot the upper radiator hose spring.

Thanks to a refund from the local auto parts loyalty scheme I got the coolant for "free" as the oil was discounted after I bought it.

Back to getting the bolts between the transmission and motor hooked up, although the dizziness probably means it will have to wait until tomorrow to put in the drive plate bolts.

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Sorry to hear about the covid... not much of a Xmas gift.

Glad your back on the project, albeit with diminished capacity. That brand of coolant isn't one I've seen before... Is it a HOAT coolant, and not one of those 'all car' flavors?

Happy New Year!
 
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Discussion Starter · #75 · (Edited)
Its an Australian brand. Weird company, Nulon started out selling cans of snake oil, but eventually moved to mainstream car products and no longer sell their dodgy oil additive. I normally avoid their products like the plague but its one of two products I could get that is recommended for Chryslers so I didn't have a lot of choice.

I managed to avoid covid for the last few years, this wave finally cleaned us up unfortunately. Thankfully nobody in the house got it seriously.

Feeling a bit fatigued again now. Cleaned up the exhaust flanges but they are very pitted so I think I will smear a touch of paste on them. Got the manifolds on the heads with the heat shields. So many bolts missing from the previous owner, but when cleaning out the boot I found a pile of unused bolts and have been putting them to good use.

Heads look fast just sitting on the bench. Can't wait to drive this thing.

edit: the coolant (Nulon brand "Hybrid Additive Technology" Type A) which I intend to use with a pile of coolant flush. I'll dump it after 50km or so and try to track down something better. I know the oil is OK although it seems a waste to pile a bunch of expensive synthetic oil in a car that is going to be dumped after running it in. Maybe I should use a running in oil?

edit 2: ah, I think that coolant isn't for this car. The Nulon website seems to indicate that the "red" HOAT coolant is what I want. I'll return it for something else I think, and do the coolant flush with plain water and whatever coolant flush I can find to see if I can get the leftover green stuff out of the heater matrix.

oh, and Happy New Year to you @Grumpy1


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"Maybe I should use a running in oil? "

Don't think your gaining by using synthetic for such a short period. Conventional and synthetic are compatible, so no worries about residual after a change. If the savings is sufficient, then doing so is fine IMO.

"the "red" HOAT coolant is what I want... "

Yes! Just replace my radiator and was reminded to see that only HOAT was used. Think the aluminum heads are the primary reason, but also that the different coolants don't mix. There are many threads of cottage cheese in the system as a result. In any event, best to keep it simple and just use what oem calls for.

"...with plain water and whatever coolant flush I can find... "

Didn't use any flush myself. The system was clean, no sludge or clumps, and that flush can be aggressive... If there's a need, then by all means. If you're just chasing old coolant out of the system, save your money and just repeat flushes. When it's time for the final fill, be sure to use distilled water.

During my repair, I realized draining from the radiator petcock was only releasing about half the system. So picked up a dozen gallons of distilled water, and drained what was possible... topped it off and drove a while, cool down & repeat. The weather was warm, so no worries about freezing. Did it during the week, so by the following weekend, there wasn't a hint of coolant remaining. It also affored me a chance to see the system was tight beforing adding coolant.

There's a product here in the state called Marvel Mystery Oil. Honestly, I use it cause Grandpa did. He insisted that my father use it at every oil change and now I do also. I even keep a bottle in the boot and put a few ounces in the tank when gassing up. If it's available by you and not too costly... it's brought me good luck thru the years and surely couldn't hurt ;)
 
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Discussion Starter · #77 ·
"Maybe I should use a running in oil? "

Don't think your gaining by using synthetic for such a short period. Conventional and synthetic are compatible, so no worries about residual after a change. If the savings is sufficient, then doing so is fine IMO.
Will pick up some mineral oil then, nothing fancy for the short period I intend to run it in.

"the "red" HOAT coolant is what I want... "
...
There's a product here in the state called Marvel Mystery Oil. Honestly, I use it cause Grandpa did. He insisted that my father use it at every oil change and now I do also. I even keep a bottle in the boot and put a few ounces in the tank when gassing up. If it's available by you and not too costly... it's brought me good luck thru the years and surely couldn't hurt ;)
I've heard a lot about Marvel Mystery Oil but can't recall ever seeing it in Australia. Might try to track some down.
 

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Discussion Starter · #78 · (Edited)
Heat shields back in place, starter and alternator bolted up. Got a little dizzy working under the car so abandoned putting the drive plate bolts back in.

Dodgy wiring on alternator. I have no idea if those wires are the right way around, the plug is missing. The other missing plug I found in the pile of old fasteners.

Assembled the cleaned up intake with new injector o-rings. For some reason the injectors leak around the seals if there is no spacer between the rail fixture and the manifold, previous owner used a motley collection of vaguely washer like things. I bought some copper washers hopefully thick enough to do the job.
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Once i get the drive plate done the heads can go back on.

edit: checked the coolant again, it's fine for HOAT applications and I'm too lazy to return it. I figure I'll run it for a while and see how the engine runs, my biggest worry is that the radiator is clogged but I can flush that pretty easily before I finish the reassembly, if I can work out how to get it out!
 

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"...if I can work out how to get it out! "
Simple enough...
two bolts & unplug the fan assembly. Tilt back & lift up...

Use some cord to secure the condenser to the top plate so it can hang on it's own.
That way, there's no need to disconnect or stress the AC lines.

Four bolts free the condenser from the radiator.

Loosen the four bolts for the lower radiator support. If the car is high enough, some prefer to remove it completely and drop the radiator out the bottom. Mine, I found it helpful to just loosen it a bit and tip the radiator back and out the top.

There are upper radiator mounts, some air shields, and other bits that are obvious.... There wasn't a need to remove the power steering cooler lines on mine, just tucked them to the side... and then you can flush till your hearts content.

Oh, and the drain petcock can pull out if turned more than 1/4... there's just an o-ring which might be prudent to replace. For so many times as my system was drained during all those flushes.. the petcock was routinely removed to expedite the process, though it did get a bit messy...lol

edit to add: Just recalled your front bumper cover is still on. It needs to come off, Two small screw up into the fender on each side, and the screws to the lower splash cover...some xmas tree plugs.... very quick process. Set some cardboard down, lay it back to unplug the lights...
 
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Discussion Starter · #80 ·
"...if I can work out how to get it out! "
Simple enough...
two bolts & unplug the fan assembly. Tilt back & lift up...

edit to add: Just recalled your front bumper cover is still on. It needs to come off, Two small screw up into the fender on each side, and the screws to the lower splash cover...some xmas tree plugs.... very quick process. Set some cardboard down, lay it back to unplug the lights...
Video is gold. I'd like to work out why that front clip doesn't quite fit on my car and that helps a lot!
 
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