Hello I’m new to the Chrysler thing, I have a 2005 Chrysler 300c, it runs for about 5 seconds and then dies unless you give it gas to keep it running. Guy I got it from put a new used motor and said he also had done the internals. Factory computer was flashed and reprogrammed nothing changed guy but a new computer and had it programmed to the car at Chrysler and still nothing changed. Pulled injectors and they all sprayed didn’t check with a gauge tho, said it throws a code saying “vin mismatched” he said he took it to Chrysler had it fixed and then after a few days of messing with it, it was there again. Ran compression test on all cylinders and they read where they were supposed to. Said he hadn’t got to replacing the crank sensor but he did have a new one for it. He said he replaced most if not all the regular sensors you would normally check for and nothing seemed to change along with coil packs and plugs. Haven’t personally got to tinker with it myself yet but figured I could hop on here and maybe find a place to start.
I’m new, car starts but won’t stay running unless you give it gas
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I would start with the air metering setup. You said all the sensors were replaced but most of them can be tested with a multi-meter to see if they are at least within spec. Things that can go wrong with measuring the air include:
1. Vacuum leaks: check all the hoses are present and correct (fuel vapour, brake booster, air balance tube to the inlet manifold). Check the PCV valve - note the old rattle test doesn't seem to work on the PCV on a V8 300C for some reason, try pulling some vacuum on it. Other sources of un-metered air are gasket leaks at the sump and rocker covers. Popping the inlet manifold to check the gaskets there is actually very easy (10 bolts, bleed and unhook the fuel line and it just lifts off).
2. MAP sensor at the back of the intake manifold, Intake air temp sensor in the rubber elbow leading to the throttle body. Pop them out and check for damage, measure with a multi meter for the correct range of resistance. You could try just pulling the plugs on these (one at a time) the ECU should try to fall back to a default setting. If it runs better, replace the suspect one.
3. Check for codes. The motor can run pretty bad without throwing a code in the garage. I would pull the O2 sensors and inspect them just in case, the previous owner might have said he replaced them but did he? is everything plugged in and plugged to the right plugs? There are 4 O2 sensors, they don't do much in the first few minutes of running though.
If it starts, it's probably not the crank sensor.
1. Vacuum leaks: check all the hoses are present and correct (fuel vapour, brake booster, air balance tube to the inlet manifold). Check the PCV valve - note the old rattle test doesn't seem to work on the PCV on a V8 300C for some reason, try pulling some vacuum on it. Other sources of un-metered air are gasket leaks at the sump and rocker covers. Popping the inlet manifold to check the gaskets there is actually very easy (10 bolts, bleed and unhook the fuel line and it just lifts off).
2. MAP sensor at the back of the intake manifold, Intake air temp sensor in the rubber elbow leading to the throttle body. Pop them out and check for damage, measure with a multi meter for the correct range of resistance. You could try just pulling the plugs on these (one at a time) the ECU should try to fall back to a default setting. If it runs better, replace the suspect one.
3. Check for codes. The motor can run pretty bad without throwing a code in the garage. I would pull the O2 sensors and inspect them just in case, the previous owner might have said he replaced them but did he? is everything plugged in and plugged to the right plugs? There are 4 O2 sensors, they don't do much in the first few minutes of running though.
If it starts, it's probably not the crank sensor.
Ok thanks, some of the things you listed were things I planned to check anyhow seeing as it’s pretty common sense. The guy I got it from don’t seem the brightest when it comes to cars which is why I bought it could if it’s simple I got a great deal on it. Paid 800 for the car.
won’t stay running unless you give it gas
Filling a internal combustion engined car with gasoline will go along way in getting the car to drive and operate.
Filling a internal combustion engined car with gasoline will go along way in getting the car to drive and operate.
Wow how’d you manage to figure that out
"He said he replaced ..."
In God we trust... the rest of the world, not so much. Don't take anything he said as gospel. If you don't see for yourself that there's a brand new sensor or receipt for what that the stealership did, assume he was mistaken. Start from scratch and trouble shoot it yourself as if he'd never spoke to you.
edit to add: When/if you run the compression test for yourself, pull the fuel pump fuse so you don't flood the engine
In God we trust... the rest of the world, not so much. Don't take anything he said as gospel. If you don't see for yourself that there's a brand new sensor or receipt for what that the stealership did, assume he was mistaken. Start from scratch and trouble shoot it yourself as if he'd never spoke to you.
edit to add: When/if you run the compression test for yourself, pull the fuel pump fuse so you don't flood the engine
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