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Discussion Starter #1
k so im young and kinda dumb, and i love to cruse around with the tunes at max volume, but i have noticed for a while that either the speakers in the door or the door panels are rattling. making me want to lower volume which won't happen. can anyone help me the passenger side seems to rattle like crazy. and the sound is kinda painful. but regardless can anyone tell me what might be the problem and possible ways to fix it. ????


THANK YOU SOOO MUCH. i cannot wait to be rattle free in my 3C.
thanks again Brian
 

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k so im young and kinda dumb, and i love to cruse around with the tunes at max volume, but i have noticed for a while that either the speakers in the door or the door panels are rattling. making me want to lower volume which won't happen. can anyone help me the passenger side seems to rattle like crazy. and the sound is kinda painful. but regardless can anyone tell me what might be the problem and possible ways to fix it. ????


THANK YOU SOOO MUCH. i cannot wait to be rattle free in my 3C.
thanks again Brian
Line your door panels with Dynamat. I would recommend the Xtreme stuff, works better. Will get rid of all those rattles. You should do around every speaker and the trunk lid if you have subs. Also provides better insulation and reduces road noise.

Dynamat 10135 Original Door Kit With four 10" x 32" sheets at Crutchfield.com

Car Audio wholesale distributor Alpine Pioneer Kicker Clarion Hifonics Kenwood Boss - Ikesound.com - Dynamat 10415

Car Audio wholesale distributor Alpine Pioneer Kicker Clarion Hifonics Kenwood Boss - Ikesound.com - Dynamat 10435
 

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i would say to change to an aftermarket speaker set and also have the door panels dynomatted its about your only option
 

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Discussion Starter #4
is there a chance that the speaker is being over powered and that is the cause of my rattling, also are both door speakers connected to the amp on the same channel? cuz im wondering if i blew the speaker in the drivers door.???

thanks again
 

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the stock speakers are supposed to be able to handle the power from the deck and amp but its not uncommon for speakers to blow most stock speakers are made of paper cones and cheap materials. Blown usually sounds different from rattling like a weird fizzor popping type noise. I am not sure but usally amps run each speaker per channel. i would tear into it and order some replacements. if the rattling is still there then it might be time to dynomat the door. regardless if you like your music loud these are going to be necessary anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Hey Halternm is those links to that web site is it a good place to buy things for my car?
like is it save?
and good service?
 

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Hey Halternm is those links to that web site is it a good place to buy things for my car?
like is it save?
and good service?
Crutchfield is very well known. Ikesound has way lower prices, so i will usually use crutchfield for research and then buy from someplace else. I have personally bought from both, but Ikesound is always cheaper. I bought Infinity 6x9's, crutchfield wanted $230 for them, got them on Ikdesound for like $130-$140. Never have had a problem with them. Ikesound also sent me a wrong amp once, called them up and they took care of the problem right away. Only complaint is slow shipping, took almost a week to get items. hope that helps.
 

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MrMe,

I was surprised to see that your car is a 2006 because the passenger
rattle is one of the hints to a problem with the earlier cars. Some of
our cars left the factory with the polarity wired incorrectly between
the front and back speakers. Basically with that problem the rear
speakers were wired with opposite polarity from the fronts.

It drove me crazy trying to find it. It finally went away when I
discovered the problem through a search on this forum. I fixed that
by reversing the connection in the rear.

I eventually wound up replacing everything downstream of the radio,
but thought I'd add my 2 cents for that issue.

I second Crutchfield as well because they will stand behind the products
they sell. Buy from them gets you cheat sheets on how to take your
car apart and also customer support, where you can call when you
need help with your install.

You will discover many more rattles once you replace everything.

My suggestion is to search for that on here as well as there are many
threads discussing how to stop all of the rattling.
 

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Thats fine and dandy until you go big. I have a 12" Fosgate Power series sub in my trunk eating 1200w RMS and I dynamatted the hell out of my trunk and it STILL rattles. I managed to lower the overall noise in the cabin where I find it benefits me the most, but when I get out at the beer store with a big tune banging, its kind of embarrassing hearing 'BWAMMP BWAMMMMMP' coming out of the ass end. I will put pics of my install and have plenty of dynamatting to go, but as far as I can tell, the 300 is a rattle magnet.

Ill keep you posted!
 

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DJ,

do a search on this forum. I promise you can defeat the rattles.
This car is a rattle magnet, but you can stop it. I can vibrate
my wifes car next to mine now without trouble.

The biggest part is knowing where to attack.....
 

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DJ,

do a search on this forum. I promise you can defeat the rattles.
This car is a rattle magnet, but you can stop it. I can vibrate
my wifes car next to mine now without trouble.

The biggest part is knowing where to attack.....
co-signed
 

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k so im young and kinda dumb, and i love to cruse around with the tunes at max volume, but i have noticed for a while that either the speakers in the door or the door panels are rattling. making me want to lower volume which won't happen. can anyone help me the passenger side seems to rattle like crazy. and the sound is kinda painful. but regardless can anyone tell me what might be the problem and possible ways to fix it. ????


THANK YOU SOOO MUCH. i cannot wait to be rattle free in my 3C.
thanks again Brian
...standard speakers are more than capable of handling more power providing the amps are tuned and crossovers a set accordingly. Dynomatting is good and also ensure that all cables and looms are secured close and tight to the body of the doors. This will also help to stop or eliminate the rattles.
 

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The standard "Bostons" are crap, oh yeah a big name built to cheap DC specs. I got rid of mine.

A major source of rattles discussed here in the Summer of '04 is the idiotic rear cardbard "enclosure" inder the rear shelf which is really no enclosure at all. I had the base 300C stereo without a sub and the rear glass sounded as if it would break. Many of us removed the cardboard contraption and the rattle went away.
 
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