Let me know if this isn't the right place for this and I'll move it. I have a 2012 Chrysler 300S with factory HID headlights. They worked great until this weekend. My passenger side headlight upon turning the headlights on starts to turn yellow compared to the driver side headlight and then just goes off after a minute or two. If I turn the headlights off and back on, it just repeats what I said. It makes no difference if the ballasts are warm or cold. I couldn't find much on this, but the one situation like it that I could find suggests to me that the ballast is toast. I'm having an awful time finding a replacement, the only one I can find is on eBay which I really would prefer to not buy from, and I don't want to go through Chrysler because I know they'll screw me on the cost. I'm wondering about something else now, it's my understanding that LED headlights are every bit as good as HID and are more reliable, so I am wondering if there is a way to a) bypass the ballasts completely, b) if there's an LED alternative that will fit into the housing plug & play style, and c) if this can be done for under $90 of materials. I'm aware that either way, the fascia has to come off to get to them. I just want something that I can trust a little more since it's such a nightmare to change these ballasts. Any help is appreciated.
I know this sounds bizarre but I want to switch my HID lights for LED
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There was a very thread here on this very subject...you should look for it. (I cant include a link with Tapatalk). Mixed results with LEDs...some say better than HID, most say worse. Some on fleabay very cheap (less than $100) but not reliable. HID retrofits from reputable vendors like Morimoto and Diode Dynamics (cost effective $150-$200) are reliable and just like OEM. I dont know if their kits fit in the OEM HID housing. The OEM parts are VERY expensive. Do a search and some reading. Very interesting.
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I searched high and low for info on that with no luck sadly. No matter though, I just discovered about an hour ago that the problem is my bulb, which is a massive relief. I switched them between my headlights and the failing one was on the opposite side from there.
I ordered a highly reviewed set from Amazon, I won't but from eBay. The last thing I bought for my car from eBay was a set of 50W led turn signal bulbs for my Chrysler's front signals to sharpen the look. If you get them in 50W you don't need to install resistors. Turns out a 50W amber H16 bulb is a nightmare to find. I even had to modify them to fit.
Nevertheless, I'm just going to stick with HID assuming a bulb is all the problem is.
Desert_Flyer I suspect this might be the thread you're referring to: Link
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I saw that and the GTR look promising. I would like to read how well LEDs are down the road aways. I have read that LED light is not as bright as HID at longer distances despite similar brightness/lumens up close. Perhaps has to do with how well the LED emulates the focal point like the HID filiment and the shape of the projector lens. Each mfr spins their testing results so really hard to make a definitive comparison.
Those GTRs look great on your 2018. Did you have HID before?
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Those GTRs look great on your 2018. Did you have HID before?
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No, I had halogen. There are many cheap options on eBay and Amazon, but the Ultra 2's have a locking ring so that you can dial them in for the perfect focus and cut-off line. I have had hid kits before, but there are a lot of parts to go bad, where these are plug and play. You get what you pay for.
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I just read on Diode Dynamics website that they are suspending sales of LEDs for replacement bulbs in halogen headlamps due to federal regulations, which prohibit that. Tis a shame.
Edit: reread it and it applies for HID as well! No more HID or LED retrofits for headlights. Checked The Retrofit Source / Morimoto as well...same thing. Neither are allowed by federal regs. Read about it. Sad.
BTW, The Retrofit Source carries the GTR and they look good.
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Edit: reread it and it applies for HID as well! No more HID or LED retrofits for headlights. Checked The Retrofit Source / Morimoto as well...same thing. Neither are allowed by federal regs. Read about it. Sad.
BTW, The Retrofit Source carries the GTR and they look good.
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Mine was doing the same thing. Passenger side. I took the bulb from the passenger side and put in in the driver side. The problem followed the bulb. Put in new bulbs works fine now. If the problem would have stayed on passenger side then it probably would be the transformer.
Yep, change the globes first.
I have a 2007, but would rather just have halogen, simpler, reliable, cheap.
Problem is, on mine, remove it and canbus will show multiple alarms.
On mine recently the left slowly died. Would run dull for a while, then go out after 10 minutes on.
Then while I was waiting for a new one (Covid mail very slow), the right would suddenly go out for a second and come back.
The globes here are ridiculously expensive. Cheapest is Narva at $150 (AUD); but some Phillips up to over $300.
On Ebay there are cheap ones for $20, but didn't trust - might fry the ballast/driver.
So I bought the cheapest genuine Osram I could find - $60. Fixed the left, so then got same for the right.
In now and working. Fingers crossed.
I was worried might be ballast; but best to swap/substitute and make sure.
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I have a 2018 300 also and the GTR Ultra 2's were plug and play with no issues.
Thanks... going to look into them.... Where did you get your at? Thank you..
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I got them through Headlight Revolution
I have a 2017 and just ordered the GTR Ultra 2 as well. Will I have to remove the fascia or can I just pop the hood to replace these ?
I haven’t looked at that last time I was under the hood.
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Passenger side is just taking off the round cover and replacing the bulb. The driver's side is a little different, you need to take off the airbox and then you can access the round cover to replace the bulb. Just connect the bulb, tuck the box and wiring back in and install the bulb. you'll want to end up with the led's to end up at 3 and 9 o'clock position. you may need to remove the small screws and and align the bulb to the correct position and tighten the screws on the collar to lock it in position. Having the locking ring makes all the difference in focus and that cut-off line. Many of the ones on Amazon and Ebay don't have the ring to dial them in and don't have a good beam pattern for that reason. So while they are cheaper, they don't have a good beam pattern and fail quite often. As advertised, these are the best of the best. Hope you are happy with them.
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