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hello y'all, finally been able to get some free time to work on my baby. Jumped right on in, started pulling her apart, got all the way to driver's head pull and I'm ready to pull the cam.....I missed a step somewhere....great big high five and an Attaboy to you if you can guess what........ok, I was going to thread that right there and see what's up....but I need help...I forgot to TDC it out and mark my timing. Now I'm about to pull the camshaft, but I'm gonna need to do exactly what with it for it to run again. I NEED TO HEAR HER PURR [email protected]₩₩1T!!! Please tell me there's hope....I mean, isn't there a procedure to follow when building it from scratch for the first time? I'm currently trying to find TDC(my passenger side still has the head) by finding the last cylinder to fires(2, right...oh yeah '12 Chrysler 300c 98383.64 Paul 32 Galveston, Tx. Howdy y'all, forgive my rudeness....) exhaust stroke, that would be #1's intake stroke, correct? So, then wouldn't I just run it up till 2 exhales while 1 inhales and get my marks? This is all I need and I'll have her running soon. Once she's cleaned up I'll send pics. Thank you oh so very much, your input will help immensely
 

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I am guessing we're talking about a Hemi?? The rotating assembly doesn't know from nothing about what stroke the engine is on. It's all in the cam/timing set/valve train. After removing the timing cover/water pump, turn the engine over by hand to top dead center on the No. 1 cylinder with the crank sprocket (for the timing chain) KEYWAY in the 2 o'clock position...it'll pretty much be centered on the Chrysler emblem on the oil pump. This will put the crank sprocket in the proper position for further assembly. Then go about changing the cam, set the timing as per the FSM, put the heads and valve train back on. Everything will be fine. Are you using new valve lifters??

Also, when you pull the timing cover/water pump, be sure to use a piece of cardboard and make an outline of the bolt pattern for both. Punch holes in the cardboard in this pattern and, as you pull the bolts, place them in the appropriate holes. Reason for this is that there are numerous different bolt lengths and if you don't keep track of where they go, you'll be lost.
 

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Don't sweat it, I haven't done a G3 hemi yet, but I've built a lot of engines. There will be marks on the cam chain assembly to line up. Don't sweat it, sounds like Magnumman there has ya covered, sounds right. Keep pulling it apart, all will be revealed.
 

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Do you mean the MDS solenoids? I can't imagine why you'd question the knock sensors, they're on the outside of the block and have nothing to do with cam replacement. The MDS solenoids are 4 electric solenoids in the valley under the manifold, is this what you mean? And no they do not need to come out.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Oh yes, the MDS solenoids. This'll kind of tell you how long it's been since I've dived this deep in an engine bay. The last time I removed some sensors in the same spot were on a 350 vortec on an early '00's model Tahoe. They were knock sensors on that one. So, now one out of four MDS solenoids survived the removal. Now I've got the timing chain back on in it's proper position with the cover reinstalled and I'm about to start rebuilding the head and all that jazz, up to the water pump(need a gasket), the sensors, and a battery. Can't wait to hear it run again. I know my wife is excited
 

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It will indeed.
 
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