Chrysler 300C & SRT8 Forums banner
1 - 20 of 21 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
729 Posts
JMatt said:
They said it couldn't be done!!

I have a ScanGauge to measure Manifold Air Pressure (MAP) and Intake Air Temperature (IAT). Here's the factors that changed with my new cold air ram air intake:

Before: IAT at speed was 5 degrees over ambient
After: IAT at speed was 2 degrees over ambient

MAP: redline in 2nd gear: 14.1 psi
MAP: redline in 3rd gear: 14.5 psi

The manifold pressure is with the STOCK FILTER AND AIR BOX IN PLACE!!!

No - I'm not expecting pressurized air, I'm just expecting to eliminate all losses below 14.5 psi. I think I accomplished my goal!

The difference isn't huge, but I do have more air, and colder air.

Total cost: $15+/-
Total time: less than 3 hours start to finish, including road testing.
:banana: :banana: :banana: :banana:
Hey, that's um.....well....cool! LOL....how about details? Pics? Materials and prices?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
354 Posts
JMatt said:
They said it couldn't be done!!

I have a ScanGauge to measure Manifold Air Pressure (MAP) and Intake Air Temperature (IAT). Here's the factors that changed with my new cold air ram air intake:

Before: IAT at speed was 5 degrees over ambient
After: IAT at speed was 2 degrees over ambient

MAP: redline in 2nd gear: 14.1 psi
MAP: redline in 3rd gear: 14.5 psi

The manifold pressure is with the STOCK FILTER AND AIR BOX IN PLACE!!!

No - I'm not expecting pressurized air, I'm just expecting to eliminate all losses below 14.5 psi. I think I accomplished my goal!

The difference isn't huge, but I do have more air, and colder air.

Total cost: $15+/-
Total time: less than 3 hours start to finish, including road testing.
:banana: :banana: :banana: :banana:
Well where is all the info on it?????????? Is it a secret? Did I miss it on another thread?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
354 Posts
AWESOME JOB JMATT- Just having the courage to mess around with it says enough. Thanks!!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,044 Posts
Jmatt...

way to CRAM it!!!

It must be snowing or something there... :biggrin:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,048 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,048 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
354 Posts
JMatt said:
Looks like Hennessey's system, only $300 cheaper. The problem is that although that MIGHT provide cooler air, it's still not ducted out the front of the car, and allows ZERO ram air. It is a step in the right direction though.
I guess it will also fit the 6.1 engine as well. I would like the henessey one but the price doesn't seem worth it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,719 Posts
Great write up Matt members really appreciate pics and details, can you elaborate on the brake cooling. I know for the 300 C there is no cooling from that fog light area despite what the varoius journalists reported. Is there an actual duct that goes to the caliper or merely an opening that ostensibly directs air to the brake region?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
268 Posts
cooling vent

From the time that I have spent under my car with installing, then un-installing, the volant, I thought the cooling vent for the brakes is that indentation below the fog lights...

Jay
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
18 Posts
Cai

JMatt said:
I'd love to manufacture this. I'd love to sell it. I'd love to take $10 in parts, an instruction manual, and sell it for $150. (Wait - that's already been done, right? :wink1: )
Instead, here is the How, What, Where, etc. to make your own "JMatt's CRAM."


Step 1: Materials. 4" aluminum corrugated dryer vent from Lowes, or wherever. 1 roll of Black Duct Tape.

Tools: I used a Jigsaw, a tin snips, a flathead screwdriver, an adjustable wrench.


Here's the FINISHED look from the outside of the car. The duct next to the driving light is ported directly to the front brake. WARNING: This mod intercepts the brake cooling duct on the driver's side!!! In my non-engineering opinion, the brake ducting is not important during slow speed city driving. Nor is it critical for highway driving. I believe it may be important if you're driving up and down mountains, or racing at Sears Point. If you're concerned about brake cooling DON'T DO THIS MOD!!!!


If you get down to ground level, and look up the tube, you can see how I've attached the new duct work.

So how did I do that? Here's my best attempt to describe the steps:
1) Drove car up onto portable ramps.
2) Used adjustable wrench to remove the four bolts holding on the pan under the engine area
3) Use adjustable wrench to remove bolts on underside of front bumper, which hold on the next piece of underbody work.
4) On each side, there are plastic retainers. Use a flathead screwdriver to pop out the center of each retainer. The larger piece then pops out. There are 3 of these retainers on the driver's side, and three more in the same positions on the passenger side
5) This piece then comes out as one entire unit. Attached to it are the back half of the brake duct. Set entire unit aside.
6) The front half of the driver's side brake duct is held on by a single metal clip. This clip has teeth in it to hold the clip on. Use the flathead screwdriver to lever the clip off. The forward half of the brake duct will come out in your hand.
7) Place the aluminum duct work on the top of the brake duct you just took out. Trace a circle around the aluminum duct. I drew the circle as far toward the back of the plactic duct as I could, while still leaving the lip in place that joins the front brake duct piece to the back duct piece.
8) Use a jigsaw to cut the circle out.
9) Place aluminum duct into plastic duct. Shape the pliable aluminum with your hands for the best curved shape. Looking into the front of the plastic duct, cut the excess aluminum away with tin snips until you have the best shape.
10) Use Black duct tape to seal the aluminum ductwork to the plastic duct. I sealed the entire inside, as well as the entire outside.

Now that the bottom end is fabricated, let's look at the top:

Here's the stock airbox:

You can see I left the gap between the sheetmetal and the bottom of the air box. That avoids any issues of drawing water up into the intake.

If I remove the airbox, you can see how I simply used more duct tape to join the 4" aluminum duct work to the underside of the (approximately) 3 1/2" hole under the airbox.

I cut the aluminum tube to length via trial and error. I kept peeling off about an inch at a time until it fit. Once I had it installed, I ran duct tape down the outside of the aluminum duct work - lengthwise, to add strength and make sure the duct didn't blow a hole (this kind of duct is made from one continuous spiral of aluminum, and thus has a spiral seam).

DISCLAIMERS:
1) I am not an engineer - heed the warning about possible effects of intercepting the brake cooling
2) I am not claiming this makes my 1/4 mile time drop by 4 seconds, or my trap speed increase by 30 mph.
3) Could it look neater? Of course. This was my "proof of concept." I could make it look nicer the 2nd time, and I hope some of you will make one for yourselves that looks nicer.
4) I drove my car and compared my Intake Air Temperature (IAT) before and after this mod. Before, my IAT was 5-7 degrees higher than ambient. After, my IAT was 2 degrees higher than ambient.
5) I monitored my Manifold Pressure at redline rpms in 2nd, and 3rd gear. I got manifold pressure of 14.1 in 2nd gear, and 14.5 in 3rd. The only difference I can see to explain the increased pressure, is that the ram air must actually WORK!!!!!!
6) Are there better/different/more expensive ways to do this? I'm sure there are. This was my way of experimenting in my garage with $15. Don't knock it. :)

FINALLY: Please try this mod! Improve on it, change it, maximize it. Just remember: It's "JMatt's CRAM!!"
Just to let you know I did that before the meet and greet in oct. on my ram 1500 and it does work. Good job.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,523 Posts
Did you remove the brake duct? And if so does that duct snap into place like the blank that the 300C has?
Reason I ask, maybe we can modify the "brake duct" to flow directlt to the air box and use them on our C's
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,048 Posts
1 - 20 of 21 Posts
Top