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Hi Guys I wana remove my side moldings but I am affraid that a hole will be shown So please advise me . And I am going for 20" rpm wheels R505 20"x8.5 for front & 20"x10 for rear Is my choice is right please advise me.
I need an advise Guys
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Can't offer advice but here's a willing opinion.
I have 20" x 9" rims all round so I agree with your idea of even wider at the back and especially with your narrower at the front. My front tyres are narrow 245 x 40 section and don't protect the rims, so narrower rims would be good instead of making the tyres wider and loading the steering apparatus.
My rears are 275 x 35 section and just protect the 9" rims. Your Carlos Fandango Super Wide Wheels would look even better as they'll have even wider tyres.
G.
I have 20" x 9" rims all round so I agree with your idea of even wider at the back and especially with your narrower at the front. My front tyres are narrow 245 x 40 section and don't protect the rims, so narrower rims would be good instead of making the tyres wider and loading the steering apparatus.
My rears are 275 x 35 section and just protect the 9" rims. Your Carlos Fandango Super Wide Wheels would look even better as they'll have even wider tyres.
G.
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Greenheugh can i get a photo for your car and can you tell me your lowering springs are how many inches
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Hello A.
here are three photos.
One is with the standard 18" wheels, and I think all the other wheels are inside the car so it may be a little laden at the back (4 x 32kg = ~250lbs
I do not know if my car is lowered as I did not buy it new.
The other two photos are with the Startech 20" wheels on it and nothing inside ie unladen.
G.
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Very nice!!!! Lookin good
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Demolding:
Work one panel at a time.
Use a hairdryer (or heat gun) to heat the length of the molding on the panel you are working on. Don't heat it so much that it burns your finger when you touch itat: but make sure the molding is warm.
Next, wrap a microfiber towel around a plastic putty knife. keep it tight. Peel up one end of the molding. This will be a little tough, but should be easy enough after heating. Peel up enough until you can fit the knife wrapped in the towel underneath the molding. Push the knife vertically along the length of the molding maintaining about a 20 degree angle to the car. While you're pushing with the knife in one hand, use the other hand to gently pull the molding away from the car as to help the knife glide on the underside of the molding. As you approach the opposite end of the molding in which you started, be careful as to not let the end of the molding dig into the door.
Okay, know that you've completed that part you will then be left with a mess of adhesive on the door. Purchase some GooBeGone. or 3m Adhesive remover. Either one of these products will help in the process of removing the adhesive. Use the microfiber towel to scrub away the adhesive. You can also use your fingers to roll the glue. Some of this "rolling" may be necessary (i did a lot of it). After all the adhesive is off you may or may not be left with a "shadow" of where the adhesive once was.. after a couple waxes, polishes, cleanings, ect. this "shadow" will disappear.
** Note: I suggest two people do this job. This allows for one person to continue heating the molding while the other uses the knife. This continuous heating allows for an easier detachment of the molding and also lifts more of the adhesive allowing for a lesser mess of adhesive after the molding is completely removed.
Hope this helps!
Work one panel at a time.
Use a hairdryer (or heat gun) to heat the length of the molding on the panel you are working on. Don't heat it so much that it burns your finger when you touch it
at: but make sure the molding is warm.Next, wrap a microfiber towel around a plastic putty knife. keep it tight. Peel up one end of the molding. This will be a little tough, but should be easy enough after heating. Peel up enough until you can fit the knife wrapped in the towel underneath the molding. Push the knife vertically along the length of the molding maintaining about a 20 degree angle to the car. While you're pushing with the knife in one hand, use the other hand to gently pull the molding away from the car as to help the knife glide on the underside of the molding. As you approach the opposite end of the molding in which you started, be careful as to not let the end of the molding dig into the door.
Okay, know that you've completed that part you will then be left with a mess of adhesive on the door. Purchase some GooBeGone. or 3m Adhesive remover. Either one of these products will help in the process of removing the adhesive. Use the microfiber towel to scrub away the adhesive. You can also use your fingers to roll the glue. Some of this "rolling" may be necessary (i did a lot of it). After all the adhesive is off you may or may not be left with a "shadow" of where the adhesive once was.. after a couple waxes, polishes, cleanings, ect. this "shadow" will disappear.
** Note: I suggest two people do this job. This allows for one person to continue heating the molding while the other uses the knife. This continuous heating allows for an easier detachment of the molding and also lifts more of the adhesive allowing for a lesser mess of adhesive after the molding is completely removed.
Hope this helps!
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thank you very much MurderedOut its a very good advise
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The only thing to watch for is a shadow left behind. Im not going to guess as to how often it happens but there are posts of the paint not being good under the molding. Some people have the problem others have none.
Also its important to ensure the doors haven't been painted after build.
If you take the molding off slowly, carefully and ensure you are pulling it straight so it doesnt bend much it can be reattached. Thats what I had to do.
Also its important to ensure the doors haven't been painted after build.
If you take the molding off slowly, carefully and ensure you are pulling it straight so it doesnt bend much it can be reattached. Thats what I had to do.
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