Chrysler 300C & SRT8 Forums banner

1 - 12 of 12 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
05' 300C experiencing intermittent start problem. It turns over fine but it's like the fuel just isn't getting there. After about 3 or 4 tries, it'll finally crank. My wife says she has to pump the accelerator when it happens to her. The last time it happened to me, I didn't pump it and on the 3rd try it started but sputtered and struggled to fire up. Took it in for warrenty work, but of course they couldn't duplicate it. Seems like a fuel pump issue.... thoughts? suggestions?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
774 Posts
Bad gas? Bad sensor? Bad relay?
Does it run ok, or is it only on starts? Does it do the same thing no matter what the temperature or humidity is outside?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Once it starts it runs great, it's only on start up. I live in the south and it's summer..... it's alsways hot and always humid. :) It's happened both after sitting all night and after just a couple of hours since it was last running.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
465 Posts
i cant remember but does your fuel system prime when you turn the key to ACC position prior to start? most cars i have owned do that. you turn the key to ACC position and you listen for a small noise (like buzzing noise that lasts 2 seconds). that tells you that the pump is on and your fuel is primed. you can try to put your key in the ACC position for 5 seconds and then crank over. see what that does
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
774 Posts
If it is a fuel pressure issue, on most cars (I can't remember now if ours have it or not), there is a tiny valve on the fuel rail, usually covered with a black cap not unlike the valve on your tires. Before you start it, and after it's been sitting a while, unscrew the cap and push down on the valve (and stand back!). Make sure you have a few rags lying around. If gas spurts up fine, then it's not a fuel pressure problem. If it kinda dribbles out, then it is.

A fuel pump would give you problems, BTW, all the time and not just on start up. You would feel lurching and hesitation while the motor is running.

I would be more inclined to say your problem is probably electronic and not mechanical (imo), but unfortunately, it's a process of elimination.

Here's what I would check:

Plugs (did you change them? I didn't see the mileage on your car)
Wires (are they getting sodded in the humidity? Buy a can a wire drier and spray it on)
Wiring connector to your throttle body (is it in snugly? any loose connectors/pins?)

Basically, if you have fuel, then it's either lack of spark or air that's causing this. Spark/fuel/air are controled by sensors, so if you have these three, then it's sensors. You should ask your dealer if the car is throwing any fault codes.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
38 Posts
Pumping the accelerator on a fuel injected engine does absolutely nothing. The days of a carburetor with an accelerator pump and choke are gone forever. Well, except for on my 1977 Dodge van.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
774 Posts
Pumping the accelerator on a fuel injected engine does absolutely nothing
It can flood your engine. Don't ask how I know......
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
631 Posts
Does it seem to happen only when the tank is full? A thread exists here that when the tank is overfilled people have this problem. Just one thing to keep in mind. Also, it is a good idea to let the key sit at ACC for a couple seconds before starting as it does prime the fuel pump. See if that resolves your issue
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
Had same issue with Dodge Truck

I owned a Dodge Ram 1500. It would trun over like crazy but it would not fire. Cause - Low battery - not enough voltage to power other fuel components...hence did not fire. Changed out battery and everything was good.

Hope this is your problem.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Discussion Starter #10
Thanks for all the posts. So far, no reoccurances since taking it to the dealership. I'm an occassional driver so I told my wife about letting it sit on ACC for a couple of seconds and to not overfill the tank and not pumping the accelerator if it doesn't crank again. I'll be checking the battery voltage and breaking out the owner's manual. The car just hit 35K miles and I've read a couple other posts mentioning changing the plugs at 35K with copper plugs, not platinum plugs. Thanks for all the suggestions and helping out a mechanical novice or as my wife says a mechanical dunce. :stupid:

And one more thing..... they say I've passed my window to transfer the powertrain warrenty; WTF? If it's working now, what's the big deal? You're giving away a lifetime warrenty and I have to pay $150 for a 35K mile one. :pat:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
375 Posts
My car did that today and the "ESP BAS" light came on. Turned the car off, restarted it with no problem, no ESP light.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
5,077 Posts
Dang Reppin,never really took notice to all your mods.That's gotta be one sweet ride
 
1 - 12 of 12 Posts
Top