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I might be missing something, but my owners manual doesn't seem to have any instructions on positioning the floor jack when removing a wheel. (I bought locking lugs and want to get them on before a trip to Phoenix in a couple weeks where the car will be parked outside overnight). I'm a little gun-shy about wheel removal after snapping a wheel stud off my last car while tightening a lug.... with a torque wrench.
 

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Rear: locate the vertical flange used for the O.E.M. jack. Immediately behind (towards the car centerline) this flange is a recessed area. This is your target.

Front: locate the vertical flange used for the O.E.M. jack. About 10-12" toward the car centerline you will see the frame. At this point it is tapering out. You will see a triangluar depression. This is your target.
 

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frank29 said:
Rear: locate the vertical flange used for the O.E.M. jack. Immediately behind (towards the car centerline) this flange is a recessed area. This is your target.

Front: locate the vertical flange used for the O.E.M. jack. About 10-12" toward the car centerline you will see the frame. At this point it is tapering out. You will see a triangluar depression. This is your target.
Thank you very much!! I appreciate it. :)
 

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If you are just changing to locking lugs, you don't have to jack the car at all. Just do one lug at a time with tire on the ground, as is. Your wheel is not going to magically fall off with one lug taken off. Before the days of one lug racing wheels for Nascar, etc., drivers won races with a few lugs missing on there wheels from pit stop change. If they waited for them all, they lost getting back onto the track.

Jacking spot locations didn't come in my SRT-8 Manual. One reason is they don't give us a spare or a jack (saves weight, but OEM's not run flat), we have a compressor and basically fix-a-flat in a fancy dispensor, attached to the compressor. This will get you down the road to get tire properly looked at. Another big reason why the SRT 300 is near perfect 55/45 even weight distribution, plus the european size battery, thanks MercBenz, is in the trunk area and not in engine bay.

If you have a good floor jack at home, you can pick up the back end of the SRT in two places. I know, I got a nail in the back tire, 4 days into ownership. :nutkick:

At least the tire sensors worked on the ride home and told me how fast I was losing psi's. Since it is an independent rear end, I wouldn't put the floor jack on what would normally be a good spot to lift entire back end, under the pumpkin (Diffy). That is to soft a metal to be picking up this weight of a car and you don't want to damage the sensitive independent rear end system. I positioned the jack under the rear A-arm of the solid suspension/tire connection, chrysler mechanic even told me that is where he would, worked like a charm. That will come in handy when you go to the 1/4 mile track and want to put on slicks to run your times. When I went back to show my buddies the SRT at NTB, they said they knew it doesn't come with a spare. They showed me the rear locations for there air lift jack locations. Look under the rear doors, about 5 inches from back tire, there is what looks like a black round Donught. It fit the round ring of there lift system so well as if Chrysler called all tire places themselves. That is the second rear location to lift the SRT that I have found and will work much faster thant the first way. The front they pick up off of the front frame rails. I found it to hard to get a garage floor jack with wheels to get at the front end.

Anyone have any suggestions on how to get the front end up in your own garage with a floor jack.

Does anyone also know the part number for a Chrysler OEM floor jack.

When I go with after market wheels, I will order a 3rd front wheel and mount the same size as my front tires for a full size spare in my trunk, I will also store the OEM jack and torque wrench, tools, etc. in the trunk. Our trunk space is plenty big to showcase your aftermarket wheel in a slick way. Some members in our Impala club even built there speaker boxes to wrap around the spare and several other ways to. Looked great at club meetings and car shows.

I don't want to take the chance with a compressor and fix-a-flat if I am on a road trip and I get a flat in the middle of BFE and can only go up to a certain speed once repaired and I get to a tire shop. If the flat turns out to be a tear and not fix-a flat repair, you are shit out of luck. I just jack up car, swap out rubber and on my way, albeit with a tiny OEM floor jack.
 

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DRY HEAT said:
I might be missing something, but my owners manual doesn't seem to have any instructions on positioning the floor jack when removing a wheel. (I bought locking lugs and want to get them on before a trip to Phoenix in a couple weeks where the car will be parked outside overnight). I'm a little gun-shy about wheel removal after snapping a wheel stud off my last car while tightening a lug.... with a torque wrench.
Just curious... why would you want to remove the wheel, or even raise it, to put locking lug nuts on?
-Steve
 

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sjz said:
Just curious... why would you want to remove the wheel, or even raise it, to put locking lug nuts on?
-Steve
Wouldn't it be good to take some of the vehicle weight off the rim when removing lug nuts? It seams like it would be better without all the tension/pressure.
 

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There are 5 lugs. Four will hold the wheel in place just fine, while you change the one lug to the locking one. Repeat 19 more times, your done.

NTB looked it up for me on there system:
SRT tire sizes 245/45/20 F and 255/45/20 R, Tire inflation: F 32 R 34.
Lug Torque: 85-115 psi.

I use 100 psi lug torque on all high performance wheel tire set ups, esp. Z rated tires (SRT) and my bigger 4x4 tires.

330toSRT8 said:
Wouldn't it be good to take some of the vehicle weight off the rim when removing lug nuts? It seams like it would be better without all the tension/pressure.
 

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Psi???

I hope you mean foot-pounds when referring to torque.

You can buy a low profile jack at any Hi-Po Shop or online. Mine cost about 100 bucks at a local store and slips right under the "8" no problem.

My regular jack would not even clear the rocker panels! Bonus is that my stands fit right into the factory notches for their jack setup. Very secure.

Love looking at that funky MB front suspension.


Steve
06 CSRT8
all stock all original
everything but DVD
waiting for software
 

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Had to jack mine up last week because of a hole in the side wall. Damn pothole just jumped up and bit the tire. Pissed me off I didn't have a Jack for the 8.
:-(
 

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Yes, I was referring to foot-pounds when referring to Torque. My bad for assuming everyone knew what that meant. NTB lists, on there system, Lug Torque for there employee's. They already know it os for foot punds setting on Torque wrenchs. My bad for not explianing that here on the forums.

Lug Torque: 85 -115 psi = The range of foot pound settings, you can set on your torque wrench, when tightening down your lug nuts yourself.


stevesrt8 said:
I hope you mean foot-pounds when referring to torque.

You can buy a low profile jack at any Hi-Po Shop or online. Mine cost about 100 bucks at a local store and slips right under the "8" no problem.

My regular jack would not even clear the rocker panels! Bonus is that my stands fit right into the factory notches for their jack setup. Very secure.

Love looking at that funky MB front suspension.


Steve
06 CSRT8
all stock all original
everything but DVD
waiting for software
 

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Freebird77057 said:
There are 5 lugs. Four will hold the wheel in place just fine, while you change the one lug to the locking one. Repeat 19 more times, your done.
Exactly; except you don't have to repeat it 19 times - - there's only gonna be ONE locking lug per wheel. Just take one regular lug nut off of each wheel and replace it with the locking one.

But if you do have a floor jack and want to raise the car, position the jack under the control arm as far outboard (close to the wheel) as possible - - not under the body of the car.
 

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Warning

kevenj said:
Exactly; except you don't have to repeat it 19 times - - there's only gonna be ONE locking lug per wheel. Just take one regular lug nut off of each wheel and replace it with the locking one.

But if you do have a floor jack and want to raise the car, position the jack under the control arm as far outboard (close to the wheel) as possible - - not under the body of the car.

Do NOT DO THIS! Never ever jack up your car this way. Bad advice, use the jacking points as described earlier in detail.

KevinJ, you may wish to examine the suspension components of these cars first and then consider what you just advised someone to do. You are going to damage this type of car with that procedure.

Sorry to be so blunt but others read this too and take it as gospel truth!
Hemmee, please consider the safety issues here!



Steve
06 CSRT8
all stock all original
everything but DVD
waiting for software
 

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Measure

Freebird77057 said:
If you are just changing to locking lugs, you don't have to jack the car at all. Just do one lug at a time with tire on the ground, as is. Your wheel is not going to magically fall off with one lug taken off. Before the days of one lug racing wheels for Nascar, etc., drivers won races with a few lugs missing on there wheels from pit stop change. If they waited for them all, they lost getting back onto the track.

Jacking spot locations didn't come in my SRT-8 Manual. One reason is they don't give us a spare or a jack (saves weight, but OEM's not run flat), we have a compressor and basically fix-a-flat in a fancy dispensor, attached to the compressor. This will get you down the road to get tire properly looked at. Another big reason why the SRT 300 is near perfect 55/45 even weight distribution, plus the european size battery, thanks MercBenz, is in the trunk area and not in engine bay.

If you have a good floor jack at home, you can pick up the back end of the SRT in two places. I know, I got a nail in the back tire, 4 days into ownership. :nutkick:

At least the tire sensors worked on the ride home and told me how fast I was losing psi's. Since it is an independent rear end, I wouldn't put the floor jack on what would normally be a good spot to lift entire back end, under the pumpkin (Diffy). That is to soft a metal to be picking up this weight of a car and you don't want to damage the sensitive independent rear end system. I positioned the jack under the rear A-arm of the solid suspension/tire connection, chrysler mechanic even told me that is where he would, worked like a charm. That will come in handy when you go to the 1/4 mile track and want to put on slicks to run your times. When I went back to show my buddies the SRT at NTB, they said they knew it doesn't come with a spare. They showed me the rear locations for there air lift jack locations. Look under the rear doors, about 5 inches from back tire, there is what looks like a black round Donught. It fit the round ring of there lift system so well as if Chrysler called all tire places themselves. That is the second rear location to lift the SRT that I have found and will work much faster thant the first way. The front they pick up off of the front frame rails. I found it to hard to get a garage floor jack with wheels to get at the front end.

Anyone have any suggestions on how to get the front end up in your own garage with a floor jack.

Does anyone also know the part number for a Chrysler OEM floor jack.

When I go with after market wheels, I will order a 3rd front wheel and mount the same size as my front tires for a full size spare in my trunk, I will also store the OEM jack and torque wrench, tools, etc. in the trunk. Our trunk space is plenty big to showcase your aftermarket wheel in a slick way. Some members in our Impala club even built there speaker boxes to wrap around the spare and several other ways to. Looked great at club meetings and car shows.

I don't want to take the chance with a compressor and fix-a-flat if I am on a road trip and I get a flat in the middle of BFE and can only go up to a certain speed once repaired and I get to a tire shop. If the flat turns out to be a tear and not fix-a flat repair, you are shit out of luck. I just jack up car, swap out rubber and on my way, albeit with a tiny OEM floor jack.
I take road trips like mad. First week I made my way from Phoenix through Vegas to Tahoe then Napa and Sonoma. Eventually made my way back. All with no spare! I also thought about adding a full size spare. Small problem. I measured the diameter of a front wheel assembly (tire & rim) then measured the basement in the trunk (where the spare would go). Not even close. Without MAJOR alterations/metal fabrication etc, it will not fit. Good idea to carry a spare, but it will not fit! Compressor & goo for me!


Dan
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I elected to jack the car up when only replacing one lug nut on each wheel just to be safe... I loosened the other lugs approx. 1/2 turn and then torqued each down to 100.

Now if they want the rims they'll have to take the whole car! :silly: .......wait a second, maybe I should take the wheel locks back off!
 

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wheel lug locks

DRY HEAT said:
I elected to jack the car up when only replacing one lug nut on each wheel just to be safe... I loosened the other lugs approx. 1/2 turn and then torqued each down to 100.

Now if they want the rims they'll have to take the whole car! :silly: .......wait a second, maybe I should take the wheel locks back off!
If someone wants your wheels, locks or no locks, they will get them. Locks only make them harder to get off.
 

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Irwin said:
If someone wants your wheels, locks or no locks, they will get them. Locks only make them harder to get off.
Yes you are so right, if they want it bad enough they will get them. The locks do make them harder to get off and usually deters most, not all. That is why some wheel lock Co. sell them in sets of 16 (4 lugs a wheel) 20 (5 lugs a wheel) 24 (6 lus a wheel) and 32 (8 lugs a wheel). They do also sell them in all 4,5,6,8 lug (4 packs, 1 lock a wheel) as well. Since my friend lost his wheels one night with one locking lug a wheel, just for piece of mind, I lock all lugs down now. That way if they want my wheels they are going to have to work at it or steal my whole ride which is why I have insurance. You can only do so much to protect your ride. Alarms, engine kills, Lo-jack, wheel locks, etc. With all of that installed, some jealous person could see your ride, parked outside, while you are at dinner, club, etc, and just smash your window, slash your tire, key your car or dent the s _ _ _ our of a door panel for they don't have what you got, I have seen it happen. All your security measures didn't protect your ride from that, the car is still there, but the damage is already done. Same holds true if lo-jack finds your car or it was stolen and never recovered, the damage is already done, call your insurance co. and hope for the best.

In the words of Eazy E of the rap group NWA " I just wrapped my 64' (Impala) around a telephone pole, oh brother, I go buy another"
 

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DanRealtor said:
I take road trips like mad. First week I made my way from Phoenix through Vegas to Tahoe then Napa and Sonoma. Eventually made my way back. All with no spare! I also thought about adding a full size spare. Small problem. I measured the diameter of a front wheel assembly (tire & rim) then measured the basement in the trunk (where the spare would go). Not even close. Without MAJOR alterations/metal fabrication etc, it will not fit. Good idea to carry a spare, but it will not fit! Compressor & goo for me!


Dan
When I go with after market wheels, I will order a 3rd aftermarket front wheel and mount the same size as my front tires (275/35/20) for a full size spare in my trunk, I will also store the OEM jack and torque wrench, tools, etc. in the trunk. Our trunk space is plenty big to showcase your aftermarket wheel in a slick way. Some members in our Impala club even built there speaker boxes to wrap around the spare and several other ways to. Looked great at club meetings and car shows.

I already know the 275 mounted on a 20x9.5 will not fit in the spare wheel storage area, where a traditional spare, not full size would go. I will mount the aftermarket tire, at an angle, at the back of the trunk, closest to the back seats. The aftermarket wheel will look good all shined up, armor alled and part of the trunk display at 300 monthly meets or car shows. I will store the small jack (OEM) , tools to change tire, etc. plus my amplifiers, fans for amps, etc (when I upgrade sound system) in custom made storage bin/dividers in the spare wheel storage area/spare tire location. Being able o close back the OEM panel door to hide all of above listed. I will never have a need to fold the rear seats down for extra storage, so my full size tire/spare will not be in the way. If I have to haul something big or long, I will use my Ford-F250 for that job, not my pristine SRT 300.
 

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FreebirdSRT said:
Does anyone also know the part number for a Chrysler OEM floor jack.
Jack and handle are sold separately. If you have a wrench that will fit the stock lug nuts (21mm), you really don't need the handle. Just make sure the wrench you use for the jack gives you enough ground clearance to turn it... "X" type lug wrench won't work. The jack and handle are designed to "mate" for storage, as shown in the pix.
Chrysler part numbers:
Jack= 04782773AB ~$35 IIRC
Handle= 04782999AA ~$20 IIRC
I could be off on the prices since I bought them last August.
These are the part numbers for the non-SRT8 LX48. I tried the jack on my 3SRT8 (both front and rear), and it works perfectly. The "V" on the top of the jack fits a "ridge" at the jacking points on the car to prevent it from slipping. Besides a spare 3SRT tire/rim, I also keep a set of cheap Walmart plastic chocks in the trunk. Everything, except of course the spare, fits in the box below the trunk floor.
BTW: That styroform box beneath the truck floor is really a space eater. I may try to fabricate something (maybe plywood/styrofoam) which will give me more room. The OD of the spare is 28", and will not even come close to fitting down there, even with no box.
HTHs
-Steve
 

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