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Joey,
your "fix" is interesting. This suggests to me that KW should pay you big time for diagnosing a problem and they should be sending bushings and stronger springs to everyone who has sunk substantial money on these products.

Jay
 

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Not sure if you saw my thread, but I found the fix to my popping.
The upper two spring coils were/are torquing/banging on each other.
Inserting rubber between the two springs stopped the noise.

This is known as coil pop. The coils are supposed to stay firmly in contact as keeper coils. Sometimes, the roll and pop. Your rubber hose fix is the same as OE coil wrap. Well Done!
 

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As I posted on 9-22 the KW's have been nothing but major problems and a money pit. It annoys me further that I've spent a total of $4K already, which includes the KW kit, labor t install them and paying for labor and parts in a attempt to clear up all the problems. Non the less these problems still exist. The shop that installed the kit (KW Authorized Shop) also had to wait for weeks to receive the new rear bushings and of course I was charged to dismount and remount everything and then again charged to dismount and remount. The popping noise in the front still exists and no one seems to know what the problem is, not even the KW Authorized Shop. I've given up. I will be remounting the original shocks and springs. For the price of $2K the KW's have certainly not lived up to my expectations and I do not recommend them (at least for AWD). Joey that is very interesting that the rubber between the coils cleared up your problem. I must commend you on an excellent find and wonder why KW didn't come up with it. I will definitely try your recommendation and hope it works. That will be my last attempt to rectify the problem on my car. Then it's back to the originals. I will post after I do it.
 

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As I posted on 9-22 the KW's have been nothing but major problems and a money pit. It annoys me further that I've spent a total of $4K already, which includes the KW kit, labor t install them and paying for labor and parts in a attempt to clear up all the problems. Non the less these problems still exist. The shop that installed the kit (KW Authorized Shop) also had to wait for weeks to receive the new rear bushings and of course I was charged to dismount and remount everything and then again charged to dismount and remount. The popping noise in the front still exists and no one seems to know what the problem is, not even the KW Authorized Shop. I've given up. I will be remounting the original shocks and springs. For the price of $2K the KW's have certainly not lived up to my expectations and I do not recommend them (at least for AWD). Joey that is very interesting that the rubber between the coils cleared up your problem. I must commend you on an excellent find and wonder why KW didn't come up with it. I will definitely try your recommendation and hope it works. That will be my last attempt to rectify the problem on my car. Then it's back to the originals. I will post after I do it.
It was also very time consuming and costly for me to find a solution.

If you try the rubber inserts, you don't need as much rubber as shown in my pic. The rubber doesn't encircle the entire coal. The only functional part of the insert is the piece in between the coal. See the attached pic. I wasn't sure how the rubber was going to fit, so I had cut a chunk out of the rubber tube so the shape was a C. Most of the rubber shown in the pic is just hanging there and not helping. The weight of the car on the spring is holding the rubber inplace.

Just jack the car up about 1 to 2 inches until the spring opens up enough to insert the rubber. The wheels won't need to be off the ground and you don't need to take the wheels off. Just reach in and stick the rubber inserts in between the coals. The whole process takes 5 to 10 minutes.

If I didn't buy the wireless chassis ears I doubt I would have ever found this solution. The chassis ears narrowed the popping down to the coilover area. From what I could tell, the chassis ears had ruled out tie rods, steering rack, tension strut, and upper and lower control arms, ball joints, and brakes.

I was originally certain it was the endlinks, which I replaced. When that didn't fix the popping I posted the Youtube video of the noise amplified with the wireless chassis ears. Although I doubted the springs/struts were the cause of the noise, I called Tom Edge and he watched the video on Youtube.
He immediately said it was my upper strut mount bearing. At the time I didn't know our strut mounts do not have bearings. But when I sprayed the upper strut mount area and upper springs with silicone lubricant in hopes of lubricating the bearing the popping stopped for 2 days, but would return after the lubricant dissipated. So I was convinced it was the strut mount and bought one.

After receiving the strut mount I find out there is no bearing or moving part and I am really stumped why the silicone lubricant stopped the popping. But I install the upper strut mount anyway, and the popping doesn't stop.

So I continue to spray the strut mount and upper springs with silicone lubricant and the popping continues to stop for 2 days. I then came up with the idea of the rubber inserts.

I called Tom again and told him of my fix and he seemed skeptical, or maybe stumped. He said he had never seen this problem before with KW springs. Later I find out the noise/problem is called coilover "binding". I did some googling on "binding" and it is a known problem.

The true fix is a new spring. But I have a set of relatively new KW springs in the garage that KW sent me 1.5 years ago for another problem. So I didn't ask Tom to send me new springs. I will see how long this rubber insert fix lasts. Someday I may pay the $50 labor to have the springs swapped out.
 

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I would really like to hear the sound you recorded to compare to my "noise", can you point me to the URL please...
 

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Joey excellent find...you may have solved an issue that lot of people may be having. I haven't put the rubber inserts around the spring yet but will this weekend. KW should pay you for finding the fix. Now they should upgrade their product knowing one of the problems that exist with their coilover kit. After trying upper strut mounts (twice), tie rod ends, upper and lower control arms and lots of time I hope this is my solution. I will post after complete. Thanks again Joey!
 

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Joey excellent find...you may have solved an issue that lot of people may be having. I haven't put the rubber inserts around the spring yet but will this weekend. KW should pay you for finding the fix. Now they should upgrade their product knowing one of the problems that exist with their coilover kit. After trying upper strut mounts (twice), tie rod ends, upper and lower control arms and lots of time I hope this is my solution. I will post after complete. Thanks again Joey!
That would be cool if the rubber inserts fixed your problem. You already eliminated a few other possibilities, so this may be your fix too.
If you have an oil catch can, you probably have some extra hose line laying around. That is what I used for the insert.
 

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I just had the KW2s installed. I have the clunk when hitting bumps in the right rear. Is this what everyone had?
See the pics in post number #144. If you have a bad bushing the shock could be sliding off the bushing and banging against the cradle.
But I would be surprised brand new KW's would have bushing failure.
If the bushings look OK, then check to make sure all the bolts were tightened to spec.


http://www.300cforums.com/forums/su...kw-v2-impressions-settings-15.html#post740895
 

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so I'm picking up my KW V2 coilovers today for my 2005 AWD magnum, and was reading the service manual, It states I need seperate the upper ball join in order to remove the assembly? Is that really the case or can I really just slide them out after detaching them from the lower control arm
 

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i just had some KW v2's installed the other day. and my car has the same popping/clunking/banging noise from the front end, that a few others have by the looks of it.

going to try the rubber insert method, and see how that works. after reading this thread, it was seeming like it was only a problem on the AWD. but ive got an SRT, and its the same problem.
 

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i just had some KW v2's installed the other day. and my car has the same popping/clunking/banging noise from the front end, that a few others have by the looks of it.

going to try the rubber insert method, and see how that works. after reading this thread, it was seeming like it was only a problem on the AWD. but ive got an SRT, and its the same problem.
I doubt the rubber inserts are going to fix your noise. It took at least 1.5 years until my popping noise started. I don't think new coilovers have coil binding issues.

I would first recheck the torque on all the bolts.
When I got my KW's installed I also had some clunking because the installer didn't torque the front struts correctly.

Also, make sure the rebound adjusters are adjusted correctly.
I believe KW recommends 1 turn open on the front, and 2 turns open on the rear. If they are fully closed damage will occur to the struts/shocks.
 

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I doubt the rubber inserts are going to fix your noise. It took at least 1.5 years until my popping noise started. I don't think new coilovers have coil binding issues.

I would first recheck the torque on all the bolts.
When I got my KW's installed I also had some clunking because the installer didn't torque the front struts correctly.

Also, make sure the rebound adjusters are adjusted correctly.
I believe KW recommends 1 turn open on the front, and 2 turns open on the rear. If they are fully closed damage will occur to the struts/shocks.
thats not good news. i thought it was a problem you were having from new. im pretty sure the installer torqued everything correctly. but ill re check, just to make sure.
 

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I had the KW's V-2's installed last week. The only problem so far is the car would not come into alignment because the car was lowered so much (255/30-20). At first, I was told I would have to have a camber kit installed. I suggested that they adjust the fronts up and gain some height. They adjusted the fronts nearly all the way up and it resolved the camber on the left tire, but the right front won't come into alignment. The shop tells me I need to have camber bolts installed to get the alignment correct. Does anyone know what size camber bolts, since there are more than a few sizes and lengths, are needed on a 2007 300C SRTD RWD? Where can I get the camber bolts?
 

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i just had some KW v2's installed the other day. and my car has the same popping/clunking/banging noise from the front end, that a few others have by the looks of it.

going to try the rubber insert method, and see how that works. after reading this thread, it was seeming like it was only a problem on the AWD. but ive got an SRT, and its the same problem.
It's probably the supercharger weighing the car down......:biggrin::joke:
 

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I had the KW's V-2's installed last week. The only problem so far is the car would not come into alignment because the car was lowered so much (255/30-20). At first, I was told I would have to have a camber kit installed. I suggested that they adjust the fronts up and gain some height. They adjusted the fronts nearly all the way up and it resolved the camber on the left tire, but the right front won't come into alignment. The shop tells me I need to have camber bolts installed to get the alignment correct. Does anyone know what size camber bolts, since there are more than a few sizes and lengths, are needed on a 2007 300C SRTD RWD? Where can I get the camber bolts?
Here is a great option to make your front end camber and caster adjustable:

EP6570 LX Front Upper Control Arm Bush with Adjustable Camber Capability $273.98

Lowering your LX makes your bump steer worse than it is already. You may want to consider our Pedders bump stop kit for the steering gear:

EP2113 LX Bump Steer Correction Kit $81.56


If you want to be able to align the back end, here is a rear camber adjusting kit:

EP7277 LX Rear Upper Control Arm Bushes with Camber Adjustability $165.20

Now one of the things that we have found is if you completely stabilize the suspension, you can go with a higher than spec negative camber without abnormal tire wear.

Here is our Pedders complete alignment kit that also includes updated front radius rod bushings that are very problematic, plus gives you a nice package discount:

Full Alignment Bush install kit
4/25/09 MERLIN P/N LX BUSH KIT
This kit is designed for the owner that wants to get full alignment capability and fix the steering bump
steer concern. We offer a lot of flexibility in the alignment, especially the rear alignment to allow
for all types of driving. Front raduis rod bush upgrade is also included. Make sure you tell us
your driving habits so we can do pre-adjustments for rear camber accordingly

Part Number Description Price
EP2113 LX Bump Steer Correction Kit $81.56
EP6567 LX Front Radius Rod Bush $156.84
EP6570 LX Front Upper Control Arm Bush with Adjustable Camber Capability $273.98
EP7277 LX Rear Upper Control Arm Bushes with Camber Adjustability $165.20
Total Pedders Parts $677.58
Menu System Discount $217.59

Menu System Discount Adjusted Parts Total $459.99



thanks
mike
dms
 

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I had the KW's V-2's installed last week. The only problem so far is the car would not come into alignment because the car was lowered so much (255/30-20). At first, I was told I would have to have a camber kit installed. I suggested that they adjust the fronts up and gain some height. They adjusted the fronts nearly all the way up and it resolved the camber on the left tire, but the right front won't come into alignment. The shop tells me I need to have camber bolts installed to get the alignment correct. Does anyone know what size camber bolts, since there are more than a few sizes and lengths, are needed on a 2007 300C SRTD RWD? Where can I get the camber bolts?
My car's camber and caster are also out of whack because my car is lowered with KWv2's. The negative camber has caused premature inside tire wear, over time.

However, after doing the math comparing the cost of the camber kits plus the labor to install the kits, to the cost of new tires, it is basically a wash. You may need to buy one additional set of tires over the life of the car (if you drive 80k or more) due to the inside tire wear. That may cost about $800 for a set of tires. The camber kits, plus labor, will probably cost around the same amount.
I also don't trust the adjustable camber kit ball joint bolts and offset bushings to hold their alignment.

So I opted not to get the camber kits.
 
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