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@ pdyebrasil, thanks for the link to the retrofit source for the morimoto hid system... do they deliver worldwide, hopefully to the Philippines. I'll try to email them later. I'll also check if its available on amazon. Is he line/shadow very noticeable if you use the H11 which is not the "B"-type? (Just in case I can't get hold of H11 - B or Chrysler compatible).


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@ Patdow1, thanks for the pics... I guess I would have to go with the 3000K once I change he bulbs, the improved brightness/illumination will be much help to me, specially during the rainy season. But your light looks good!


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I guess I'll chime in since I've had a set of HID's in my fogs for quite some time now. I purchased the MORIMOTO ELITE HID SYSTEM from The Retrofit Source with 35W ballast. I would order the MOPAR SPECIFIC MORIMOTO HID SYSTEM to avoid the issues I originally had.

I originally installed a 3000K temp bulb but was not totally happy with the color output and quickly changed to a 4300K bulb instead. Not to say the 300K did not light up the road it just looked off with HID headlamps and DRL's and the orange running lights.

The difference between halogen/LED and HID is very dramatic so if you do decide to go this route over the LED's be prepared to get flashed frequently.

I've attached a link to my post so you get an idea of light color and output.
http://www.300cforums.com/forums/2nd-generation-chrysler-300-discussion/102458-lighting-gurus-4.html

Patdow1, may I ask if you know the original wattage of our fog lights? You used the 35w ballast, right? Is it bright enough at night, even when it rains? And on asphalt roads? Do you think the 55w ballast is advisable? Thanks!


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@ DiodeDynamics, please post the pics of the 300C specific products... Do you ship to the Philippines? I hope so, if not i would have to have it shipped to my relative, then they can ship it to me.


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We do ship internationally, and I promise I will have pictures for you guys very soon. We have a bunch of our products on my co-worker's 300, I'll have some threads up soon showcasing our 300c lighting and acrylic products.

As mentioned earlier, we are located in St. Louis and we have fantastic products and no-hassle warranty policies. The ballasts that come with our HID kits are high quality and come with a LIFETIME warranty. If you have any issues, all you have to do is give us a call, shoot me a PM, or email us ([email protected]) and we will be there to help you out. We send replacements with a return shipping label for your convenience.

Again, let me know if there is anything I can do for you, questions/concerns etc..

Thanks,
Nick C.
 

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Patdow1, may I ask if you know the original wattage of our fog lights? You used the 35w ballast, right? Is it bright enough at night, even when it rains? And on asphalt roads? Do you think the 55w ballast is advisable? Thanks!
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The sock bulbs that came in my 300C were Phillips 12V 55W H11's
I went with the 35W ballast for two reasons 1. Planned on using the stock wiring harness which by the way is very thin. 2. lower operating temps.
If you so end up deciding to go with the 55W ballast I highly recommend using a HD harness which is usually supplied for reasons mentioned above. The concern I had was that the hotter 55W HID bulb could possibly burn the plastic foglamp lenses and harness, but not 100%?

As far as driving in rain/asphalt roads/fog etc the 4300K cuts right through it all. You do get a little reflection in heavy fog mostly from the headlamps and not the fogs. I live in a coastal area (SanDiego CA) so we get our share of fog. Hope this help you out.
 

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@ pdyebrasil, thanks for the link to the retrofit source for the morimoto hid system... do they deliver worldwide, hopefully to the Philippines. I'll try to email them later. I'll also check if its available on amazon. Is he line/shadow very noticeable if you use the H11 which is not the "B"-type? (Just in case I can't get hold of H11 - B or Chrysler compatible).
Yep, I do believe that TRS does ship internationally. The Morimoto kits will not be available on Amazon, however.

I actually have not tried an H11 or H11B HID bulb in our fogs yet, so I can't tell you how much, if any difference there is.
 

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The sock bulbs that came in my 300C were Phillips 12V 55W H11's
I went with the 35W ballast for two reasons 1. Planned on using the stock wiring harness which by the way is very thin. 2. lower operating temps.
If you so end up deciding to go with the 55W ballast I highly recommend using a HD harness which is usually supplied for reasons mentioned above. The concern I had was that the hotter 55W HID bulb could possibly burn the plastic foglamp lenses and harness, but not 100%?
I would definitely agree with Patdow1 here... 55W ballasts in a fog light are probably overkill. The added heat might damage the fog lights themselves, and if not, may still burn the chrome reflector inside of the projector. Once that happens you end up with less light output anyway. Best to stick with 35W.

Not to mention that 55W ballasts and bulbs also have shorter lifespans...
 

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I would definitely agree with Patdow1 here... 55W ballasts in a fog light are probably overkill. The added heat might damage the fog lights themselves, and if not, may still burn the chrome reflector inside of the projector. Once that happens you end up with less light output anyway. Best to stick with 35W.

Not to mention that 55W ballasts and bulbs also have shorter lifespans...
We don't carry 55W ballasts because of that extra heat. They greatly increase your chances of damaging expensive factory components and housings. Plus, our 35w kits are plenty bright.

+1 to sticking with a 35w kit, no matter where you get it from :burnout:

Nick C.
 

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We don't carry 55W ballasts because of that extra heat. They greatly increase your chances of damaging expensive factory components and housings. Plus, our 35w kits are plenty bright.

+1 to sticking with a 35w kit, no matter where you get it from :burnout:

Nick C.
Just to clear up my opinion on this (not that I'm always right :)), but I am not opposed to 50 or 55W ballasts, just in this application I'd say it's best to stick with 35W. If it were in a housing that was larger (like a real HID headlight projector) then I wouldn't be too worried about it.

Also, there should be no chance of damaging factory wiring or anything if you are using a proper relay harness and pulling power straight from the battery. If you decide to take the "easy route" and use your factory wiring, prepare to have issues in the future, whether you are using boosted ballasts or not.

I actually run 50W ballasts and bulbs in my '98 4Runner. They are in OEM HID projectors though (Porsche bi-xenons). I love the output. As far as longevity goes, that's where the trade-off is. You get more light output, but generally a 20% decrease in lifespan. If a ballast's lifespan is roughly 5 years, you're probably gonna be at around 4 years with the boosted ballasts.

In my situation, I think it's worth the trade-off.
 
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For you guys that are asking about bulb size, you can use the automotive bulb guide here: https://www.sylvania.com/en-us/applications/automotive-lighting-systems/Pages/lrgmain.aspx

Check out DDM Tuning for inexpensive HID kits. I've had good luck with their products after spending 3x more on other kits.
I wouldn't use 55w in an application that didn't originally have HID wiring.
I'm not sure what you mean by HID wiring? If it came from the factory with HIDs, chances are it's using a D1 / D2 style HID bulb. You wouldn't have to do any wiring at all to swap those bulbs.

If your car came with halogen style headlights from the factory, you'll have to buy a conversion kit that'll include the bulbs and ballasts which is plug and play with the factory wiring. If you have issues with them flickering, you can easily add an HID relay that will attach directly to the battery and provide the bulbs with a steadier flow of electricity, rather than relying on the factory wiring.

I'm not going to criticize another lighting company, but I will say you get what you pay for. Sure, you can easily find cheaper kits and they may work for a few months, or you can buy a quality kit at a fair price and have no issues with a solid warranty.

Plus, I'm always going to be here to help if you have questions or concerns! :wavey:

Thanks!
Nick C.
 

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I have a question for you Diode Dynamics, I want to order from your site HID kit for my fog lights and came to a lot of options so I got confused. I know nothing about what I need only the bulb size H11, if I want to have a flicker free hid kit what item should I add to the kit? Hylux Canbus ballast or I need only the relay harness?
 

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I have a question for you Diode Dynamics, I want to order from your site HID kit for my fog lights and came to a lot of options so I got confused. I know nothing about what I need only the bulb size H11, if I want to have a flicker free hid kit what item should I add to the kit? Hylux Canbus ballast or I need only the relay harness?
The Relay kit will prevent any chance of flickering as it attaches directly to the battery to power the bulbs, rather than relying on the factory wiring.

It's not 100% required for all vehicles, but for just $10 it's smart to add on!

The Hylux kit is our highest quality ballast, it has a German-design and has a failure rate less than .02%. Our standard Precision ballast is still extremely high quality and both options come with a lifetime guarantee!

Let me know if you need more information.

Nick C.
 

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@DiodeDynamics, so it is best to use a wiring harness even if you will only put a 35W HID bulb as a replacement to the 2013 Chrysler 300C's fog light, I'm aware that it uses an H11 bulb, however, I was told that there are two kinds of H11’s, the "regular" H11 and the H11B. The difference, they say is on the placement/location of the grounding wire. They say, one will cause a shadow and the other one will not on a projector type fog lights. They say that the 2013 has a projector type of fog lights.

I'm sending a photo of the unit, hopefully to avoid confusion...

Thanks...

ImageUploadedByAutoGuide1377313808.070531.jpg


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Our HID kits work great in the projector style housings, and you don't have to worry about heat-related issues since we only carry the 35w kits. The kit will be totally plug and play, as you are just replacing the bulb and mounting ballasts.

Let me know if you need more information, shoot me a PM or email us: [email protected]

HIDs are a great upgrade for the fogs, and give the car a much more modern look, especially in a projector.

Nick C.
 

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HID main & fog conversion

On my 2013 300S equipped originally with all halogen lights, I installed a Morimoto Mopar specific kit from The Retrofit Source to replace the 9012 headlights with 4300K 35W HID lamps. For my fogs, I had some old DDM Tuning 35W ballasts lying around ( new, but about 3 years old) and added a relay kit and H11 4300K 35W lamps. I first tried using the original fog light wiring with capacitors, but I was noticing some mild strobing at idle, so I added the relay kit- that took care of the minor flicker at idle. The difference compared to the stock halogen lamps is striking. I can now actually see driving down the highway at night on low beams! So far, no canbus errors, no problems. I may try the H11B lamps in the fog light housings just to see if it really makes much of a difference. One other note, on the main headlights I originally tried 5000K lamps (also Morimoto) but I was noticing some weird purple patches at the edges of the beams (and on the road) , so I went to the 4300K lamps, and that seemed to take care of that problem.
 

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