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Discussion Starter #1
Hi folks I'm just curious for peoples comments on how many ks or miles can someone expect out of a 5.7 hemi more specifically 06 year model wagon mines done only 123000 ks and gets well looked after.
Tows our ski boat 4-5times a year
With no dramas and loves it.
I use full synthetic (penrite oil/fluids etc)
Reg servicing every 6months considering we wouldn't even do 5000ks a year.
Any feedback would be awesome on what your experiences are regards steve.
 

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You've got a long way to go, Steve.

Probably the biggest threat to your '06 is overheating (including shutting down after an especially hot run without a little cool-down time). You can easily drop a valve seat and turn your engine into scrap.

But that kind of failure is most often seen after 100,000 miles.

About the best thing you can do aside from your other routine maintenance, is to keep an eye on your cooling system.

Make sure to use the correct type of antifreeze specified in your owner's manual...it should be HOAT...keep it topped off, look out for leaks and never let anyone else add coolant to your car.

Coolant mixing is a real problem for our cars, since FCA switched to OAT in 2013, and the two types are not compatible.

It's not a bad idea also to stick with the correct copper plugs on an early Hemi. Don't be tempted to step up to platinum or iridium.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thank you for your reply it is homely knowing that what I'm doing is great for the long gevity of out family 300.
a worrying factor the heat that she pumps out is incredible.
every time we go to the river, I'm always keeping a close eye on the dash even around town regardless.
I couldn't agree more regarding coolant type this HOAT stuff is expensive but well worth having a happy 300.
I'm no mechanic but the only time anyone looks or touches my car is when she has her annual check up by a pro keeping in mind I still service and maintain my vehicle myself I'm not a pro but I do everything and anything.
You mentioned copper and iridium plugs etc
Will she behave differently in some strange way if the other plugs in?
Thank you again mate cheers.
 

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Thank you for your reply it is homely knowing that what I'm doing is great for the long gevity of out family 300.
a worrying factor the heat that she pumps out is incredible.
every time we go to the river, I'm always keeping a close eye on the dash even around town regardless.
I couldn't agree more regarding coolant type this HOAT stuff is expensive but well worth having a happy 300.
I'm no mechanic but the only time anyone looks or touches my car is when she has her annual check up by a pro keeping in mind I still service and maintain my vehicle myself I'm not a pro but I do everything and anything.
You mentioned copper and iridium plugs etc
Will she behave differently in some strange way if the other plugs in?
Thank you again mate cheers.
If you'd like, you can replace the stock 203º thermostat with something like a Stant 48799 190º. It won't be terribly effective unless you use a tuner to lower your cooling fan temps a bit, though.

In the USA HOAT coolants usually aren't more expensive than any other type. If Zerex G05 is available in Oz, you can use that, it's inexpensive and effective. And you shouldn't trust anyone, not even a Chrysler dealership mechanic, to not mix coolant types. You can do as you like, but I don't let anyone add anything to my cooling system, unless I'm standing right there and I can see the jug it came from.

Some early Hemis do not have the appropriate coil packs for platinum or iridium plugs. Some folks report that they run platinum or iridium plugs anyway without issue. Others report that the car ran badly, so they switched back to copper. I personally pulled the heads off an '07 Charger to find that the previous owner had installed NGK 2313 Iridium plugs, and they had gotten so hot that one of the electrodes broke off and chewed up the piston. Again, you can do as you like, but my suggestion is to stick with the plug type called for in your owner's manual.
 

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5.7L hemis from 2005 to 2008 are known to drop valve seats. The heads were revised in 2009, so it's not an issue with later engines. My 2007 5.7L dropped a valve seat at 129,786 miles, which destroyed the motor. My engine had never overheated, and had never been abused in any way. I changed the oil every 3000 miles with Mobil1 5W20 full synthetic, and got regular oil analysis reports so that I could monitor the health of the engine. I also flushed the cooling system at 81,000 miles and refilled it with Mopar HOAT coolant. It was all stock...stock thermostat, no tuner, no performance parts, etc. So overheating, abuse, tinkering, or lack of maintenance were absolutely NOT the cause of the valve seat drop. Fortunately for me, I have the factory lifetime powertrain warranty, so Chrysler installed a brand new crate engine at no cost to me.

As for spark plugs, the OEM plugs are copper. The life expectancy of copper plugs is about 30,000 miles, which is why the factory maintenance schedule calls for replacing plugs every 30,000 miles. I adhere to this schedule so as not to risk voiding my warranty, even though I use platinum plugs which last 100,000 miles. Specifically, I use Autolite AP5263 single platinum plugs. They're $1.89 each at RockAuto, and Autolite has a long-standing $1/plug rebate on their website, so the plugs end up costing $0.89 each plus tax and shipping. 16 spark plugs costs me about $20 total, and I put them in myself, so there is no labor cost. Since the cost is so nominal, I really don't mind changing them at 30,000 miles, even though they are good for 100,000 miles. I've used these platinum plugs for many years and tens of thousands of miles and have never had any ignition or driveability issues whatsoever. No difference in starting, idling, power output, fuel economy, MDS functioning...nothing that is measurable or noticeable. And the platinum plugs had nothing to do with the valve seat drop. In my mind, Chrysler's choice to use copper plugs was about cost savings, as is my choice to use Autolite platinum plugs...with the rebate, the platinum plugs are cheaper than copper.
 

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Copper plugs vs Platinum and Iridium - cars.com

An excerpt:

"Copper spark plugs are generally considered to have the best performance of any spark plug type. This is potentially different from what advertising companies suggest, but the other metals are, unfortunately, not as conductive in general as copper is. Platinum and iridium plugs are more likely to overheat, which causes damage to the plug components and can compromise the delivery of the spark to the engine block."

I suppose that explains the '07 Hemi with the destroyed iridium plug electrode.

Incidentally, that car had the lifetime service contract too. Guess what the service department said when they saw the iridium plugs. Go on, guess.
 

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Of the five spark plug changes I've done to my car, four were with single platinum plugs, and one was with OEM copper plugs. The one time I used the copper plugs was because there was no rebate on platinum plugs at the time, so the copper plugs were considerably less expensive. I couldn't remember exactly when I had used the copper plugs, so I went back to check my records. Guess what plugs were in my engine when the valve seat dropped? Go on, guess. They were the OEM Champion copper plugs. The one time in the last 14 years that I used copper plugs, my engine blew! Do I think it's a coincidence? No. It's widely known that this engine is prone to dropping valve seats. Many attribute it to a faulty valve seat press fit during manufacturing, and many also believe that overheating was a contributing factor. This catastrophic failure most commonly occurs after 100,000 miles, and many did not involve overheating at all, like mine. No one believes that spark plugs are responsible for the valve seats dropping on these engines.

Basically all spark plugs are copper...in that the core is copper, with a nickel alloy electrode. The platinum part of a single platinum spark plug is just a small dot of platinum on the tip of the nickel electrode. Platinum burns hotter than nickel, which makes it less likely to foul. Running hotter is not the same as overheating. Spark plugs don't overheat on their own. If you melt a plug, it's usually the result of a lean mixture, over advanced timing causing detonation, prolonged engine overheating, or performance mods like nitrous, etc. The first two are a non-issue on modern computer-controlled cars, unless you install a tuner and mess with the settings without knowing what you're doing. Of course, it's always possible that a plug was faulty due to manufacturing defect as well.

As far as the service contract denying the claim, that's typical. They always try to get out of paying big claims if they can. I would have sued them. BTW, I have Chrysler's Lifetime Powertrain Warranty, not an extra cost add-on service contract.
 

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Of the five spark plug changes I've done to my car, four were with single platinum plugs, and one was with OEM copper plugs. The one time I used the copper plugs was because there was no rebate on platinum plugs at the time, so the copper plugs were considerably less expensive. I couldn't remember exactly when I had used the copper plugs, so I went back to check my records. Guess what plugs were in my engine when the valve seat dropped? Go on, guess. They were the OEM Champion copper plugs. The one time in the last 14 years that I used copper plugs, my engine blew! Do I think it's a coincidence? No. It's widely known that this engine is prone to dropping valve seats. Many attribute it to a faulty valve seat press fit during manufacturing, and many also believe that overheating was a contributing factor. This catastrophic failure most commonly occurs after 100,000 miles, and many did not involve overheating at all, like mine. No one believes that spark plugs are responsible for the valve seats dropping on these engines.
No idea what point you're trying to make here. You seem to be suggesting that copper plugs caused your engine failure ("Do I think it's a coincidence? No."), yet you also say, "No one believes that spark plugs are responsible for the valve seats dropping on these engines." So I'll just say that I'm sorry that you had to deal with a dropped valve seat. At least you got it repaired at no cost.

Basically all spark plugs are copper...in that the core is copper, with a nickel alloy electrode. The platinum part of a single platinum spark plug is just a small dot of platinum on the tip of the nickel electrode. Platinum burns hotter than nickel, which makes it less likely to foul. Running hotter is not the same as overheating. Spark plugs don't overheat on their own. If you melt a plug, it's usually the result of a lean mixture, over advanced timing causing detonation, prolonged engine overheating, or performance mods like nitrous, etc. The first two are a non-issue on modern computer-controlled cars, unless you install a tuner and mess with the settings without knowing what you're doing. Of course, it's always possible that a plug was faulty due to manufacturing defect as well.
I don't agree with your assertions, and I would urge anyone reading your explanation to do more research before installing any type of spark plugs other than copper (or copper-nickel, if you want to split hairs) in an early Hemi. I could just announce that, besides the article I already linked to, there are many sites that explain the advantages of copper-nickel plugs, including Champion's own site, which says in part, "Copper spark plugs run cooler and provide more power in performance driving situations." But I don't want this to turn into an argument, because it doesn't matter to me whether you personally run platinum plugs in your Hemi to save a few dollars every 30,000 miles.

I am responding to the OP, who asked about the longevity of his '06 Hemi and specifically requested feedback on others' experiences. That's why I shared the fact that I personally observed the results of an iridium plug that failed catastrophically in an '07 Hemi. That failure caused me to research the subject and discover, among other things, a very informative thread about spark plugs on jeepforum.com, which includes posts by a user who describes himself as an engineer. In your case, it's pretty clear that you've made up your mind on the subject, but for anyone who is on the fence with this issue, it's an excellent read and I highly recommend it.

As far as the service contract denying the claim, that's typical. They always try to get out of paying big claims if they can. I would have sued them. BTW, I have Chrysler's Lifetime Powertrain Warranty, not an extra cost add-on service contract.
I've attached the documents that came with the car and you can decide for yourself if the warranty is equivalent to the one you have. But I agree, every insurance company and warranty company always tries to get out of paying big claims. The key phrase there is, as you said, "if they can".

In America, anyone can sue anyone else for anything. But speaking for myself, I would rather not give a dealership an easily-defensible reason to deny a warranty claim, rather than hire a lawyer for $300-500 per hour to fight a denial. But again, I don't want to argue about it. My goal is to have the OP, and anyone else reading this thread, do their own research and come to their own, well-informed decision.


lifetime warranty contract 001a.jpg lifetime warranty flyer 001.jpg
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Mmmmm thermostat I can't even remember the type I put inme?? However so far it doesn't seem to affect performance even when the ambient temp outside is 37 degrees in the shade lol. I did install a third thermofan "front mount" to help its probably not necessarily needed but for my peace of mind I've done that.
Penrite HOATs 20L container cost us here $160 considering for 5L it's $50-$60 depending on the day of sale.
My plugs are due shortly in my 300 I've got NGK and they perform just fine no probs
 

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Mmmmm thermostat I can't even remember the type I put inme?? However so far it doesn't seem to affect performance even when the ambient temp outside is 37 degrees in the shade lol. I did install a third thermofan "front mount" to help its probably not necessarily needed but for my peace of mind I've done that.
Penrite HOATs 20L container cost us here $160 considering for 5L it's $50-$60 depending on the day of sale.
My plugs are due shortly in my 300 I've got NGK and they perform just fine no probs
When temps are that high, a thermostat with a lower operating temperature isn't going to make much of a difference anyway. It's just something some of us do for peace of mind, as you've said. Interesting about the third fan! I've never heard of an LX owner trying that. It is manually or thermostatically controlled? Have you seen any difference in operating temps?

It sounds like Penrite is somewhere around $24 USD per U.S. gallon. I guess that's not too bad. It's higher than here, but not too much. Would that be for concentrate, or 50/50 premix?
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Gentlemen all respondents are valid and true as per your own experiences, everyone's feed back is widely accepted/appreciated I personally want to hear this feed back because it helps reassure me that what I'm doing and anyone else that it's not necessarily their or my fault when things go pear shapped my 300c is very much babied and very well looked after even considering that just recently my thermofan blew apart and in turn put some sizeable hole in my rad not my or the cars fault just wear and tear.
Yes I may be a little pedantic (like others) as well but like all of us we really enjoy our cars.
Again I really do appreciate all feed back from everyone myself and my family love the reassurance that everything is ok.
Cheers to you all.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
It's just a concern of mine the 300 does throw out a bit of heat the 3rd fan is just a helper not directly in front or obstructing air flow of the factory fans the fan is wired into the factory units so as to turn on when they do.
Temperature difference is noticeable when the ambient temp isn't scorching hot however it's only their to chuck more air flow to the top front centre of the condenser/tranny cooler and that so far is beneficial.
I prefer to use penrite fluids that's just me the 20L of coolant is a 50/50 mix.
 

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My bad, I meant to say that there was NO cause and effect between platinum spark plugs and valve seat drop; it IS a coincidence that the motor blew with the copper plugs in it. The valve seat would've dropped out regardless of what plugs I had, it just happened that it dropped while I was using the cooler copper plugs, thereby negating the argument that hotter firing platinum plugs had anything to do with it.

Note that your Service Contract is not the same as the Chrysler Lifetime Powertrain Limited Warranty. Sounds like you tried to claim under the Service Contract (underwritten by "DaimlerChrysler Service Contracts Inc."), not under the Chrysler factory warranty. The fine print states: This Plan is a service contract between you and us....This Plan is not part of the vehicle's factory warranty." In the definitions, "us" is defined as "DaimlerChrysler Service Contracts Inc.". The fine print also states that "This plan does not cover any repair which is covered by the vehicle's factory warranty". If you had the Chrysler Lifetime Powertrain Limited Warranty, and if it was valid (valid only to the original owner, and must have an inspection done every 5 years by a Chrysler dealer to maintain it's validity), then this would have/should have been covered by Chrysler directly, not DaimlerChrysler Service Contracts Inc.

When I bought mine, I asked for the fine print that went with the factory Lifetime Powertrain Limited Warranty. They gave me the attached.
 

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Thats really interesting our laws here are similar but not quite the same we (being the general public) that have brought a new vehicle have a warranty of course provided ( the vehicle in question) gets serviced continuously at the dealership will they only then perhaps give you said warranty. Unfortunately we are not the original owners but all things considered I suppose for how old the 300 tour is it's in really good nick and does run well for our family (touch wood)
 
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