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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Well, today I went to my Chrysler dealer and purchased a locking gas cap (part #05278655AB) for $15...looks and works great. They also had a different locking gas cap (part #5015636AB) which can be keyed that same as your '300 series' key, but that cap ran $40 + an additional $25 to have it keyed the same as the 300's key. Since I felt that $65 was just too much money for the convenience of only having to retain one key, I saved fifty bucks and opted for the $15 route. I simply don't mind having to carry an extra key for the gas cap, and besides, both gas caps look exactly the same (sans the plastic tether which comes on the more expensive version which I wouldn't need to use anyway).

I also solved the problem of always having been forced to allow the gas cap to simply dangle against my freshly waxed paint during refuels. I found a stainless steel spring clip (from an inexpensive 'aftermarket' visor vanity mirror left over from one of my other vehicles) in my tool box 'junk drawer'. One end of this clip just happened to slip into the fuel filler door's sheet metal fold-over gap, and since it's spring steel, it's stout and won't pull out. The other end is hooked enough to slip into the cap's lip area and easily holds my fuel filler cap while it rests against the open fuel filler door (ref. attached photos). Also, the clip doesn't get in the way when closing the fuel filler door, and since it's stainless steel, I'm sure that it won't rust either.

It was a simple solution to an irritating problem, and it didn't cost me a thing. :D

The money I saved on purchasing the less expensive fuel filler cap was applied toward front and rear '300 series' OEM molded splash guards (part #82208031 & #82208032 respectively) which cost me $76 for the complete set or four. I also purchased four cans of PXR (Brilliant Black Chrystal Pearl) OEM paint at $8.30 per can, which will be used to paint the exterior portion of the splash guards (with some paint hopefully left over....just in case). ;)

I hope that maybe these ideas might help some other forum members who just might be facing the same dilemma.
 

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Another solution I use that I saw over at dodgemagnum.net is to pull the tether from the hole it is currently in and push it in the hole that is on the filler door. Then lay the tether over the lower rubber stop and it will dangle without touching the paint.
 

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Gas cap solution

C-Man said:
Another solution I use that I saw over at dodgemagnum.net is to pull the tether from the hole it is currently in and push it in the hole that is on the filler door. Then lay the tether over the lower rubber stop and it will dangle without touching the paint.
Was there any pictures on the Dodge site?? If there was can you give us directions to it.

Thanks,
 

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C-Man said:
Another solution I use that I saw over at dodgemagnum.net is to pull the tether from the hole it is currently in and push it in the hole that is on the filler door. Then lay the tether over the lower rubber stop and it will dangle without touching the paint.
I just did it...seems like it will work. Just be careful when pulling out the tether. You have to pull pretty hard and I made sure that I pulled close to the end so as not to rip it. Then, I simply inserted it into the top hole in the lid. Once you open the cap, you simply let the tether rest over the bottom rubber stop while filling.
 

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Mr.DJ said:
Well, today I went to my Chrysler dealer and purchased a locking gas cap (part #05278655AB) for $15...looks and works great. They also had a different locking gas cap (part #5015636AB) which can be keyed that same as your '300 series' key, but that cap ran $40 + an additional $25 to have it keyed the same as the 300's key. Since I felt that $65 was just too much money for the convenience of only having to retain one key, I saved fifty bucks and opted for the $15 route. I simply don't mind having to carry an extra key for the gas cap, and besides, both gas caps look exactly the same (sans the plastic tether which comes on the more expensive version which I wouldn't need to use anyway).

I also solved the problem of always having been forced to allow the gas cap to simply dangle against my freshly waxed paint during refuels. I found a stainless steel spring clip (from an inexpensive 'aftermarket' visor vanity mirror left over from one of my other vehicles) in my tool box 'junk drawer'. One end of this clip just happened to slip into the fuel filler door's sheet metal fold-over gap, and since it's spring steel, it's stout and won't pull out. The other end is hooked enough to slip into the cap's lip area and easily holds my fuel filler cap while it rests against the open fuel filler door (ref. attached photos). Also, the clip doesn't get in the way when closing the fuel filler door, and since it's stainless steel, I'm sure that it won't rust either.

It was a simple solution to an irritating problem, and it didn't cost me a thing. :D

The money I saved on purchasing the less expensive fuel filler cap was applied toward front and rear '300 series' OEM molded splash guards (part #82208031 & #82208032 respectively) which cost me $76 for the complete set or four. I also purchased four cans of PXR (Brilliant Black Chrystal Pearl) OEM paint at $8.30 per can, which will be used to paint the exterior portion of the splash guards (with some paint hopefully left over....just in case). ;)

I hope that maybe these ideas might help some other forum members who just might be facing the same dilemma.
Where did you get paint at $8.30 a can?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
jjs said:
Where did you get paint at $8.30 a can?
At my local Chrysler dealer....Mopar part #4889821-AA ;)

I believe that it lists for $11.36 per can, but ever since personally introducing myself to the Parts Manager last month, I've been getting some pretty good deals. :D
 

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Mr.DJ said:
At my local Chrysler dealer....Mopar part #4889821-AA ;)

I believe that it lists for $11.36 per can, but ever since personally introducing myself to the Parts Manager last month, I've been getting some pretty good deals. :D
Hmmm...interesting, especially since that stuff shows $15.00 at Wyckoff.

http://www.wyckoff-mopar-parts.com/ptcruistoucu1.html
 

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Mr.DJ said:
Well, today I went to my Chrysler dealer and purchased a locking gas cap (part #05278655AB) for $15...looks and works great. They also had a different locking gas cap (part #5015636AB) which can be keyed that same as your '300 series' key, but that cap ran $40 + an additional $25 to have it keyed the same as the 300's key. Since I felt that $65 was just too much money for the convenience of only having to retain one key, I saved fifty bucks and opted for the $15 route. I simply don't mind having to carry an extra key for the gas cap, and besides, both gas caps look exactly the same (sans the plastic tether which comes on the more expensive version which I wouldn't need to use anyway).

I also solved the problem of always having been forced to allow the gas cap to simply dangle against my freshly waxed paint during refuels. I found a stainless steel spring clip (from an inexpensive 'aftermarket' visor vanity mirror left over from one of my other vehicles) in my tool box 'junk drawer'. One end of this clip just happened to slip into the fuel filler door's sheet metal fold-over gap, and since it's spring steel, it's stout and won't pull out. The other end is hooked enough to slip into the cap's lip area and easily holds my fuel filler cap while it rests against the open fuel filler door (ref. attached photos). Also, the clip doesn't get in the way when closing the fuel filler door, and since it's stainless steel, I'm sure that it won't rust either.

It was a simple solution to an irritating problem, and it didn't cost me a thing. :D

The money I saved on purchasing the less expensive fuel filler cap was applied toward front and rear '300 series' OEM molded splash guards (part #82208031 & #82208032 respectively) which cost me $76 for the complete set or four. I also purchased four cans of PXR (Brilliant Black Chrystal Pearl) OEM paint at $8.30 per can, which will be used to paint the exterior portion of the splash guards (with some paint hopefully left over....just in case). ;)

I hope that maybe these ideas might help some other forum members who just might be facing the same dilemma.
From the pix, it looks like if you'd have stuck that clip into the other inside upper corner of the fuel door you could have retained the tether and hung the tether over the clip.
 

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C-Man said:
Another solution I use that I saw over at dodgemagnum.net is to pull the tether from the hole it is currently in and push it in the hole that is on the filler door. Then lay the tether over the lower rubber stop and it will dangle without touching the paint.
Looks to me like the tether wouldn't be long enough to allow for full door opening while removing or re-installing the cap!
 

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DESIREE said:
Looks to me like the tether wouldn't be long enough to allow for full door opening while removing or re-installing the cap!
Nope, just long enough. I had that concern, but I have been using this method for several weeks with no issues.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 · (Edited)
DESIREE said:
From the pix, it looks like if you'd have stuck that clip into the other inside upper corner of the fuel door you could have retained the tether and hung the tether over the clip.
The $15 Mopar locking fuel filler cap doesn't come with a tether nor will the original one work with the new cap, as there's now a key hole in place of the tether attachment point. ;)
 

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I just hang the cap up and over the top of the door. The interior portion of the cap does not touch the paint. So, why even bother with anything else?
 
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