Chrysler 300C & SRT8 Forums banner

1 - 20 of 25 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
933 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Ok, so I finally bit the bullet and bought myself a machine buffer/polisher (Meguiars) after going to a recent car show and getting 25% of ALL Meg's products :fing02: . I'm taking a day off next week and am going to tackle my wife's 3yo BLACK Mazda Tribute to hopefully get rid of some swirl marks in preparation for us selling it later this year.

I must admit, the thought of using one of these babies is a bit scary. I've read up a lot on using them (this forum, autopia.org, Adam's polishes, Meguairs) and think I am ready but am unsure on one thing.

Normally, I've found that water and polish DON'T MIX but on several videos I've seen, they suggest using a spray bottle with water or detail spray on the pad before polishing. IS THIS CORRECT? Also, is "detailer" the same as "Quik Detailer"?

Thanks in advance for any help!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
633 Posts
U can use water on the pad or on the panel it keeps the panels from getting to hot.

Good luck with it but u should start on a white car first if poss. Black can BITE.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,300 Posts
Definitely keep the water on hand and DO NOT get the panel too hot. It will burn the paint.

Also you may not need to machine the panel work to remove the swirls. Could I suggest that you wash and clay 1 panel first, then give it a good hand polish and wax. That may be all it needs.

Reason I say this is because you could actually make it worse especially of you have never done it before. And black is not forgiving.

If you do decide to machine buff the car, I would also suggest you get some auto (paint) masking tape and a roll of butchers paper/brown paper. Mask up all the rubbers, plastic trims, scuttles, windows everything but the panels you are working on. Trust me the time you spend doing this you will make up for when you don't have to try getting cutters/polish off and out of all these bits. And if you happen to run the buff over any trim, you won't damage it. Plastic trim that catches an edge of the buff will mark it.

Hope that helps but I also hope it doesn't scare you off too much. Glad your doing the misses car first though. Way to go.
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
5,077 Posts
As stated above-Polishing can make worse by improper technique. Some keys are to start clean and clean after every step. Start by using a polishing pad. Most use see are foam. They do make a waffle foam polishing pad. This is a more aggressive pad. If swirl marks do become a problem, Use a product such as 3M's Swirl mark remover.I recommend after polishing to use a Glaze.It's not a wax but more like a super micro polish. Remember waxes do not really add shine.Polishes do. Waxes protect.After a Glaze I would wax or use a sealant such as Tech 2. I just bought Adams Buttery Wax. I clayed then applied.All's I can say is WOW. I have as many products as a Auto Parts Store. This is the product I will use and recommend to people car or bike that I paint from now on
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
933 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for the tips guys. I'm confident I've got the right materials/hardware as Troy (Air22) kindly exchanged PM's with me a few months back with advice. My concern is more with the application.

I have clay barred and polished the wife's care twice in the past 12 months. It looks heaps shinier and is smooth but does nothing to the swirl marks. I think I'm going to give it a go as I will kick myself if I don't and the Missus will blow up that I bought $300 worth of products for it that will go unused. I'll let everyone know how I get along.

Another quick one - can you wash the Meguiars yellow foam machine pads? If so, just throw it in the washing machine?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,268 Posts
Some good advice already posted.

What type of machine did you buy? Rotary or Orbital? It is very hard to get into trouble using an Orbital but the cutting is so much slower.

I have both types of machine in my kit. I use foam pads on the Orbital and sheepskin bonnets on the Rotary.

Interesting comments on the use of water. Advice I have received is to not use any.

My reference source is Autopia (here is a link to the machine polishing section where the Rotary use thread is the top sticky) - Machine Polishing - Autopia.org
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,268 Posts
Another quick one - can you wash the Meguiars yellow foam machine pads? If so, just throw it in the washing machine?
Yes, you must wash the foam pads regularly, like after each use if they become clogged or dirty. The recommended detergent is a good dish washing detergent to dissolve the polish/wax (that is why you should never use disk washing detergent in your washers as it strips polish/wax).
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
5,077 Posts
Water when used in fine-cuts actually makes it become more aggressive.As Hemi57 stated-orbital is much easier to use as it doesn't build up heat like the rotary,but I don't believe the results are as good (just an opinion-have used both).Good luck and post before and after please
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
2,300 Posts
Water when used in fine-cuts actually makes it become more aggressive.As Hemi57 stated-orbital is much easier to use as it doesn't build up heat like the rotary,but I don't believe the results are as good (just an opinion-have used both).Good luck and post before and after please
Water is more commonly used when using cutters (fine medium heavy). Being that cutting paintwork requires a little more pressure/effort, this will generate heat within the panel/paintwork (making it prone to burn). The cutting agent itself can at times become too dry and begin to "clump" over the area you are working on. If it becomes to bad, it can cause the deeper swirl marks you see in your paint. Therefore a small spray of water over the area will help to evenly spread the agent over the whole area you are working on.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
933 Posts
Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
I'm just using a fine cut cleaner followed by a swirl remover - nothing too harsh. I'm not using a waffle pad either - just the mild yellow foam polishing one. As I'm a novice and the paint is black, I'm not being too ambitious to start with.

The buffer is a dual action (rotation & orbital - link below) so hopefully I should be right.

Welcome to Meguiar's Australia, the Leader in Car Car products
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,862 Posts
Hi Marc, having had a few black cars in the past and currently one again now :pat: I can relate to swirl marks on them, I tried almost everything in the past from old wives tails to just dumping them to a paint and panel shop and then wondered why I wasted my money when I picked it up, the best product I have found and swear by is Auto-Glym (Super Resin Polish) not sure of the ingredients in it but man does it do wonders on black duco, try some of this first if you want, its hand applied, dries to a fine poweder and just wipes off, have a look at the finish below from the last time I polished it :)

 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,268 Posts
I'm just using a fine cut cleaner followed by a swirl remover - nothing too harsh. I'm not using a waffle pad either - just the mild yellow foam polishing one. As I'm a novice and the paint is black, I'm not being too ambitious to start with.

The buffer is a dual action (rotation & orbital - link below) so hopefully I should be right.

Welcome to Meguiar's Australia, the Leader in Car Car products
That unit is in the "Orbital" category. As stated by yamabob, you will need to work it really hard to do much damage with a machine like that. Just remember to not apply any pressure to the machine, just the weight of it, and guide it back & forward, left and right overlapping to get a good coverage.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
933 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
Hey Hemi57.
Do you think its time we went to polishing school again?
Cheers
I know I'm learning a lot!

Hi Marc, having had a few black cars in the past and currently one again now :pat: I can relate to swirl marks on them, I tried almost everything in the past from old wives tails to just dumping them to a paint and panel shop and then wondered why I wasted my money when I picked it up, the best product I have found and swear by is Auto-Glym (Super Resin Polish) not sure of the ingredients in it but man does it do wonders on black duco, try some of this first if you want, its hand applied, dries to a fine poweder and just wipes off, have a look at the finish below from the last time I polished it :)

Very nice my friend. My grandfather has a show quality Statesman (1970's) and he used to use Aytoglym about 15 years ago. It was good stuff. :fing02:
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
933 Posts
Discussion Starter #18
Sorry for all the questions guys but that's what the forums are for I guess...

On a video I saw on Adam's Polishes website, to remove the product after application, he wraps a polishing cloth around the buffer and uses it to remove the product. Has anyone tried this? Would you wrap the cloth around the foam pad as opposed to just the machine?

On a different note, I popped into Auto One today. I like it cause it always has a full range of products (my local Repco's and Supercheap Auto's, never have a full range available) but talk about getting expensive :pat: . The Meguiars clay bar kit is now $35.00 and the Mother's kit is over $40.00! I should have bought a tub of clay at a recent car show for $40.00 :twak:
 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
5,077 Posts
No need to ever apologize for asking .I just tried Adams products over the weekend and highly recommend the Buttery wax. tp top it off. I remove everything by hand myself. I only use my polisher for application.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
5,268 Posts
Hey Hemi57.
Do you think its time we went to polishing school again?
Cheers
Hey Arnold, coincidentally I was thinking about this over the weekend. I had been thinking of ways to have another Detailing Workshop on any day other than Saturday to accommodate Shane, but now Shane has moved on I suppose I can get it rolling on a Saturday in the not too distant future.

Sorry for all the questions guys but that's what the forums are for I guess...

On a video I saw on Adam's Polishes website, to remove the product after application, he wraps a polishing cloth around the buffer and uses it to remove the product. Has anyone tried this? Would you wrap the cloth around the foam pad as opposed to just the machine?
I would recommend if you use this technique use it with a pad in place.

Have you discovered MF (microfibre) yet?
 
1 - 20 of 25 Posts
Top