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I HAVE to ask...

Hyprspec said:
Here ya go. Here is the underside of my car. You can see where the cutouts were installed. That is probably the best spot for ground clearance, and provides the most room for mounting of the electronic cutouts.


BTW, I'm thinking about getting rid of my cutouts in the next few months. Don't bombard me with questions yet because i'm just thinking about it. If you can go a few days with out you car I would be willing to do a swap. Your Stock pipes for mine with cutouts installed. You gotta pay shipping both ways. thats all I would ask.


I just orderd the cutouts and the B&G flash, I have to ask, WHY are you thinking about swapping back? What problems or concerns are you having, if any?
 

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Could anyone give me a ballpark price on how much it'd cost to have this installed at a shop?
 

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Discussion Starter #24
Jakez said:
Could anyone give me a ballpark price on how much it'd cost to have this installed at a shop?
I paid $150 and it took about two hours. This guy installs cutouts pretty regularly though.
 

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Man I really want the electric openers but I had to install one for my cutout on my SRT-4 and it was a PITA, I can only imagine it would be 10x harder on this kind of car, and twice the wiring.
 

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any videos with the car driving(ie loaded) this way we can get a better sound effect to see how the sound changes as the load increases and the RPM climbs

thanks
 

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330toSRT8 said:
1. Yes, everything is stock except the cutouts.
2. http://dmhperformance.com/ecutout.htm
3. Don't know if the install was difficult
4. No, he had them installed at some nation-wide chain since he couldn't find any specialty place open on the weekends (Midas, I think).
I placed an order Monday morning, thanks for the help
 

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SRT8C said:
any videos with the car driving(ie loaded) this way we can get a better sound effect to see how the sound changes as the load increases and the RPM climbs

thanks
yeah i have a lot of video's out on the net. search streetfire.net for SRT8 with cutouts. you can also search youtube.com for the author hyprspec. i have
a video over there called SRT8 acceleration. its a incar clip.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
I've had the cutouts installed a couple weeks now and everyone has been quite impressed with the sound. I do have a problem with them though. When they're fully closed and I give a lot of throttle I hear a popping sound. There's a tiny leak with at least one of the cutout butterflies. I called DMH and he shipped me out another pair, which arrived yesterday. Unfortunately, I haven't had time to swap them yet.
 

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so its costing you more money to swap it right? Install costs?
 

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Discussion Starter #34
freakyshiat said:
so its costing you more money to swap it right? Install costs?
No, there is no welding involved. I just have to remove three bolts that hold the electric cutout to the flange. It can't take more than ten minutes to swap both sides. I'm just putting the car up on ramps.
 

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Probably get the car IMPOUNDED if I installed them in New Jersey

Strict here.

Nice though....maybe its time to build a race car or a rat rod.

Meech
 

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Anyone care to chim in on how difficult it is to do all the electric cutout wiring? And maybe give a clue as to where to route it all.
 

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Discussion Starter #38
Jakez said:
Anyone care to chim in on how difficult it is to do all the electric cutout wiring? And maybe give a clue as to where to route it all.
The wiring is basic.There are a total of four wires that go into the switch: one positive and one negative for each cutout. Each pair of wires is inside a separate shielding. Each end of wires already has a connector, which means it would require a very large hole. I cut the two pairs to easily fish the wire through the firewall. I ran the wires through the boot that is easily visible when you remove plastic vent above the master cylinder. It's hard to explain exactly where I routed the wires underneath the vehicle. On the passenger side I ran the wire along the brake line and just used zip ties. On the driver side I basically fished the wire between two pieces of plastic.
Anyway, the switch end has another two wires coming out of it: one positive and one negative. These do not have a connector attached. I ran the negative to the nearest good ground, which happened to be a bolt under the steering wheel. I used a vampire-tap (not sure of exact terminology) to tap into the pink wire under the dash. This is accessory power, which means I have to have the key turned to open and close the cutouts.
 
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