[Largecrease]

Yes, fault codes were picked up using DiagFCA software.

 

[feichter]

Hi. I had the same symptoms on my car that you are having with yours. After much head scratching, it turned out that I had accidently disconnected the abs sensor wire - at the point where it goes into the wheel arch area from the engine bay around the air filter area. It doesn't take much force to pull it out of the connector. Check your wheel arch area, follow the sensor wire from the wheel hub area into the arch. If any work was done in the wheel arch area, it doesn't take much force for it to be accidently unclipped.

Well, thanks for that.
I have now checked the front two connectors in the wheel arches and the rear one. And they are fine.
However, looking in the engine bay under the air filter as you suggested, this connection looks very dodgy! You can see the green wire still attached, but the yellow one...?

 

[Jdtwo]

This doesn't bode well for owners of earlier models, so does that mean FiatChrysler are happy to abandon us?
If serviceable vehicles more than 12 yrs old are destined to be scrapped, that's hardly helping the planet.
I wonder how much life we can expect from a new model bought today?

The current Powers at Large will not be happy until we are all walking, riding bicycles, or burning to death in the battery fires of their electric vehicles.

 

[Largecrease]

Not sure how many wires were in the harness on my car, I sold it in 2019. Maybe someone else could check on theirs to confirm?

 

[feichter]

UPDATE:

The saga continues...

So, went and had the tracking done and also asked if they could read and delete any codes that may be present.

The tracking was way out and that was fixed.
There were lots of codes which he erased, however 5 codes he could not delete (or better said, as soon as he deleted them, they came back). Now this garage does not have specific Chrysler software, therefore the remaining five codes below may not be right anyway:

• B1A28 Communication between the component <Engine control unit> and the .... incorrect
• B2107 Ignition/starter switch faulty
• P2067 Fuel level sensor B Signal too low
• P0462 Front fog headlight switch, Rear fog light switch Signal too low
• B1808 Passenger side door lock switch Signal faulty
• U0121 Anti-lock braking system: CAN signal Communication error

The car still drives normally, the gear changes occur at the right time, everything is working fine including the cruise control. I haven't tested the ABS, as I don't want to cause any other problems.

Phoned the mechanic who originally caused the whole saga by letting the battery drain completely, and his car electrician is back from holiday on Saturday so he is hoping to get me booked in for Monday.

I also tried to call A1 Chrysler recommended by Rockin' Rebel (left message) and will try them again tomorrow. P.S. their phone number ends in a '3' not a '2'.

Needless to say, I am not a happy bunny!!!

 

[CtCarl]

Full disclosure: I have a U.S. market '05 300C that looks, at least, exactly like the OP's, and it has not displayed these symptoms.

With that said, I also have a '14 Charger R/T Blacktop, and it sits a lot. It's accumulated about 12,000 miles in the 5 years I've owned it. One day after I started it up, I got T/C & ABS lights, and cruise control wouldn't engage. After I drove it, shut down and restarted, all was normal. When I checked with AlfaOBD, it reported U0212, Lost Communication with Steering Column Control Module, and U0126, No Communication with Steering Angle Sensor.

After about a month of this, I began to wonder if either a marginal battery or too much sitting was the problem, since it was always fine after a shutdown and restart. I put a battery maintainer on it and that was the end of the problem. Been about 18 months now.

That experience makes me wonder if the mechanic killing the battery might have had something to do with it. If it were me, I would definitely have the battery load tested, and be absolutely certain that it is fully charged.

 

[OzKen]

Wow, what a drama.

I concur with all above, leaving a battery completely flat with a load across it can kill it. I know that isn't likely to be the cause, but best to eliminate it before moving on.

I know that this is likely suck eggs - but with my car (2007) it says you have to do TWO things after battery reconnection.

First is windows reset, then steering indexing.

So, start car and sweep steering from full each side and through centre, so then computer can "know full sweep/where centre is/reset."

After all you have tried, is unlikely is that, but seeing it is the only "must do" in the book after battery flat (windows just convenience) maybe worth trying just to eliminate/see if any codes change?

My apologies if you have, (and like I said, unlikely it is that) but I didn't see it in thread, and book makes a point of it, so.......................... can't hurt.

 

[feichter]

Full disclosure: I have a U.S. market '05 300C that looks, at least, exactly like the OP's, and it has not displayed these symptoms.

With that said, I also have a '14 Charger R/T Blacktop, and it sits a lot. It's accumulated about 12,000 miles in the 5 years I've owned it. One day after I started it up, I got T/C & ABS lights, and cruise control wouldn't engage. After I drove it, shut down and restarted, all was normal. When I checked with AlfaOBD, it reported U0212, Lost Communication with Steering Column Control Module, and U0126, No Communication with Steering Angle Sensor.

After about a month of this, I began to wonder if either a marginal battery or too much sitting was the problem, since it was always fine after a shutdown and restart. I put a battery maintainer on it and that was the end of the problem. Been about 18 months now.

That experience makes me wonder if the mechanic killing the battery might have had something to do with it. If it were me, I would definitely have the battery load tested, and be absolutely certain that it is fully charged.

You are making a very good point!

Although my battery is only 2 years old, the complete draining of it may well have damaged it. Since the mechanic charged it I have done some 200miles including two trips of 70miles, so it should be fully charged. I have just looked at the EVIC and the battery is showing 12.4V (with the engine off). Can anyone confirm if that is a normal level?
In any case, I have put it on charge and will leave it there until Monday.

Many thanks everyone for your suggestions!

 

[devilmaycare]

Fully charged battery ideally 12.6V with light load, but 12.4V should be OK.

My 10yr old Bosch Silver battery still works OK, but I have to put the charger on from time to time as I don't drive it very often and when I do, the journeys are short. Only use two tanks of diesel per annum.

 

[feichter]

So, further developments today...

I finally managed to get hold of the chap at A1 Chrysler in Rochester recommended by Rockin' Rebel. Very knowledable guy, who said that he gets asked the same question at least 4-5 times a year. As Chryslers (especillay the 1st generation) are no longer supported in the UK, it is becoming a real problem to fix the software when it goes horribly wrong. He asked me for the error codes and did say that the car needs a complete reconfiguration as none of the codes make any sense to how the car is behaving. He is not able to do this and can only be done by a dealer as the software is paired to the VIN number of the car.
HOWEVER, he did mention in passing that there was a dealership in Colchester that apparently still has the software. But he had no other details. I decided that it was worth a try to look for Chrysler/Fiat/Jeep dealerships in Colchester and low and behold the first one I called confirmed that they do, indeed, have the software for a 2007 Chrysler 300C (I did ask twice and the receptionist did go and ask a technician!).
So I made an appointment for Wednesday afternoon, in the hope that they can indeed do the work. Fingers crossed!

Ps. If anyone on this forum is in Colchester, please could they check it out. It would save me a 4.5 hour round trip, if the info is not correct.

 

[Rockin' Rebel]

I'm pleased that I've at least helped you to find a possible solution to your problem though when I was at A1 Chrysler I thought he said he did indeed have the Chrysler Starscan diagnostic equipment.
Perhaps you could ask the dealer in Colchester if they are also able to diagnose Gen 2 300c's like my 2012.
I hope all goes well on Wednesday.

 

[feichter]

Problem fixed !!!

For completeness, I will mention again how the whole saga started, the symtoms and the solution.

The car (Chrysler 300C CRD 2007), was left by the mechanic on the ramp for 24hours with the key in the ignition. This resulted in the battery going completely flat. He then removed the battery and put in on the bench to charge, whilst he was doing other work on the car.

When he then started the car again, the Traction Control, ESP/BAS and ABS lights were on and did not go out. He (we) tried all possible fixes, including resetting the steering angle and key dance, but none worked.

The car was driving normally and all the functions worked, including the cruise control and shifting gears at the correct revs (this detail is important !!).
If the cruise control does not work or the car is in limp mode, then the cause is probably either a wheel speed sensor, a broken tone (reluctor) ring or something else.

Another mechanic with another scanner found a number of fault codes and erased them all, but for the ones below that would not erase:

• B1A28 Communication between the component <Engine control unit> and the .... incorrect
• B2107 Ignition/starter switch faulty
• P2067 Fuel level sensor B Signal too low
• P0462 Front fog headlight switch, Rear fog light switch Signal too low
• B1808 Passenger side door lock switch Signal faulty
• U0121 Anti-lock braking system: CAN signal Communication error

You can see, that apart from the first and last code, the others make no sense at all.
Speaking to yet another mechanic (ex Chrysler) with all the necessary scanning equipment and software, he suggested that the car needs a reconfiguration and that this could only be done by a dealer.

After phoning around, I eventually found the dealer below, who in 20 minutes reconfigured the car (after a 2 1/2 hour drive!!). The technician mentioned that they have to download the configuration file from the internet, and I am assuming that in order to do that, they need to have some sort of dealer account (£££) with Chrysler.
What will we do, once the remaining dealers decide not to renew their arrangement with Chrysler??

D Salmon Cars
Sheepen Road
Colchester
Essex
CO3 3LE
Tel: 01206 715200

Now, why do these lights come on, with no possibility of turning them off without a reconfiguration?
These are my thoughts:
I suspect, that if the key is left in the ignition, either in the ACC or ON position (or maybe even just left pushed in!) and the battery goes completely flat, the ECU does not shut down properly and as a result the configuration file gets corrupted. Just like your laptop or PC suddenly being switched off at the mains! You may get away with it a few times, but sooner or later, it will corrupt the software.
If on the other hand, you were to take the battery out, to, for example replace it, you would very probably have taken the key out and in so doing, the ECU would have had the necessary time to shut down properly. Also, probably, the car will have capacitors, which will have stored enough power to shut down the ECU in case of sudden power loss. BUT, with the key in the ignition, the ECU assumes that power is available and therefore does not initiate the shut down procedure and the capacitors would slowly discharge.

Thank you all for your thoughts and suggestions, and in particular to Rockin' Rebel (see post #14) who saved my bacon!!!

 

[devilmaycare]

What will we do, once the remaining dealers decide not to renew their arrangement with Chrysler??

Why should Jeep/Fiat dealers be required to renew arrangements with a member of the same organisation?
Anyway, I'm pleased that you were finally able to find a dealer who could solve the problem.

Today, I had my 10yr old Bosch Silver battery replaced by Halfords with an equivalent Yuasa Silver battery, also with 5yr warranty. Job done in 10 mins and no subsequent issues, other than a message on radio screen telling me that I needed to change the transmission fluid.

One feature I like with this battery, is the "state of charge indicator", There is a small window in the top of the battery with what looks like a green fluid beneath. Apparently, the colour changes to black when discharged.

 

[OzKen]

Why should Jeep/Fiat dealers be required to renew arrangements with a member of the same organisation?
Anyway, I'm pleased that you were finally able to find a dealer who could solve the problem.

Today, I had my 10yr old Bosch Silver battery replaced by Halfords with an equivalent Yuasa Silver battery, also with 5yr warranty. Job done in 10 mins and no subsequent issues, other than a message on radio screen telling me that I needed to change the transmission fluid.

One feature I like with this battery, is the "state of charge indicator", There is a small window in the top of the battery with what looks like a green fluid beneath. Apparently, the colour changes to black when discharged.

I always use "silver" batteries, and always get 5 to 7 years (8 on two of them) from a battery.

The "gold/platinum/wizz bang" batteries achieve higher CCA by cramming more plates into the same size package. Truck and 4x4 batteries generally don't do this. Higher CCA is in a higher proportionally case volume for them. That preserves the optimum "plate to acid" ratio which is a basic part of battery theory. Plate area is really only used to optimum effect with same optimum immersion into acid, anything else = compromise.

As an example, a 60 A/H size standard S70 case here is approx 400 to 450 CCA (Silver) , wheras the "platinum/premium" is 550, even 600. I had one (was stuck away from home on a weekend, had to buy it) last 12 months. EVERY platinum/premium battery I have replaced for friends (at least half a dozen) - all 3 years or less. They try and get more storage out of a container size with more plates than acid, pushes the ratio/run hotter.

Doesn't matter with our batteries large battery compt. But so many new/ smaller cars have a tiny battery space, so they have to. But honestly, a 2 litre car with electronic ign/injection needs 450 CCA? Bigger isn't always better.

So premium batteries are a compromise of "more bang for buck/shorter life" to cram under packed engine bays.

I await the flak for "never heard that before" for adding elec facts/info/theory.

But, rather than argue, I leave the idea there. And I buy "silver" common sense batteries and thus have to buy new half as often, and they always reliably start my 4 cars/two bikes................

Yeah, the "charge indicator" is an interesting piece of kit that a lot of batteries have had for a while. Actually a very clever device. The end of the indicator dips into the acid. A fully charged battery has the acid at a certain level/lowers when charge drops. End in acid = reflects/shows green. End out of acid = shows blank. So it essentially shows "level". But it also shows SG by virtue of the green ball that "floats up" and gives the green indicator. If SG low, even though fluid is high enough, green ball drops/doesn't contact sight tube (works like a fibre optic) - no green ind. Seeing batteries are sealed now (apart from a vent) acid should be same level for all cells, and if level high/ball floats = charged. Clever.

 

[OzKen]

Problem fixed !!!

For completeness, I will mention again how the whole saga started, the symtoms and the solution.

The car (Chrysler 300C CRD 2007), was left by the mechanic on the ramp for 24hours with the key in the ignition. This resulted in the battery going completely flat. He then removed the battery and put in on the bench to charge, whilst he was doing other work on the car.

When he then started the car again, the Traction Control, ESP/BAS and ABS lights were on and did not go out. He (we) tried all possible fixes, including resetting the steering angle and key dance, but none worked.

The car was driving normally and all the functions worked, including the cruise control and shifting gears at the correct revs (this detail is important !!).
If the cruise control does not work or the car is in limp mode, then the cause is probably either a wheel speed sensor, a broken tone (reluctor) ring or something else.

Another mechanic with another scanner found a number of fault codes and erased them all, but for the ones below that would not erase:

• B1A28 Communication between the component <Engine control unit> and the .... incorrect
• B2107 Ignition/starter switch faulty
• P2067 Fuel level sensor B Signal too low
• P0462 Front fog headlight switch, Rear fog light switch Signal too low
• B1808 Passenger side door lock switch Signal faulty
• U0121 Anti-lock braking system: CAN signal Communication error

You can see, that apart from the first and last code, the others make no sense at all.
Speaking to yet another mechanic (ex Chrysler) with all the necessary scanning equipment and software, he suggested that the car needs a reconfiguration and that this could only be done by a dealer.

After phoning around, I eventually found the dealer below, who in 20 minutes reconfigured the car (after a 2 1/2 hour drive!!). The technician mentioned that they have to download the configuration file from the internet, and I am assuming that in order to do that, they need to have some sort of dealer account (£££) with Chrysler.
What will we do, once the remaining dealers decide not to renew their arrangement with Chrysler??

D Salmon Cars
Sheepen Road
Colchester
Essex
CO3 3LE
Tel: 01206 715200

Now, why do these lights come on, with no possibility of turning them off without a reconfiguration?
These are my thoughts:
I suspect, that if the key is left in the ignition, either in the ACC or ON position (or maybe even just left pushed in!) and the battery goes completely flat, the ECU does not shut down properly and as a result the configuration file gets corrupted. Just like your laptop or PC suddenly being switched off at the mains! You may get away with it a few times, but sooner or later, it will corrupt the software.
If on the other hand, you were to take the battery out, to, for example replace it, you would very probably have taken the key out and in so doing, the ECU would have had the necessary time to shut down properly. Also, probably, the car will have capacitors, which will have stored enough power to shut down the ECU in case of sudden power loss. BUT, with the key in the ignition, the ECU assumes that power is available and therefore does not initiate the shut down procedure and the capacitors would slowly discharge.

Thank you all for your thoughts and suggestions, and in particular to Rockin' Rebel (see post #14) who saved my bacon!!!

This is GREAT that you take the time to relate what happened for the benefit of all.

As an ex combat system tech, the "inner batteries/keep memory cells didn't kick in as they think ign on/is ign job" makes perfect sense to me.

Everyone is aware of the problems any computer can have if power immediately cut while operating instead of controlled shut down, and the need for reboot/complete cold reboot. Most consumer processor devices have "revert to full reboot" in these cases; or will be triggered from "cold reboot", although "blue screen of death/have to take to shop" can happen with laptops etc. Most military stuff has provision for operator intervention/cold reboot/ access to program/understand and can stop/start program locally . Of course, with our cars, that is ONLY at dealer level, and as you have highlighted............. not many dealers actually do it...........

But begs the question (as above) - how supportable are our cars when the above "can reload/cold boot" is gone? Enforced redundancy.

Great summary by you, and handy info for all of us.

Thank you.