Well, thanks for that.Hi. I had the same symptoms on my car that you are having with yours. After much head scratching, it turned out that I had accidently disconnected the abs sensor wire - at the point where it goes into the wheel arch area from the engine bay around the air filter area. It doesn't take much force to pull it out of the connector. Check your wheel arch area, follow the sensor wire from the wheel hub area into the arch. If any work was done in the wheel arch area, it doesn't take much force for it to be accidently unclipped.
The current Powers at Large will not be happy until we are all walking, riding bicycles, or burning to death in the battery fires of their electric vehicles.This doesn't bode well for owners of earlier models, so does that mean FiatChrysler are happy to abandon us?
If serviceable vehicles more than 12 yrs old are destined to be scrapped, that's hardly helping the planet.
I wonder how much life we can expect from a new model bought today?
You are making a very good point!Full disclosure: I have a U.S. market '05 300C that looks, at least, exactly like the OP's, and it has not displayed these symptoms.
With that said, I also have a '14 Charger R/T Blacktop, and it sits a lot. It's accumulated about 12,000 miles in the 5 years I've owned it. One day after I started it up, I got T/C & ABS lights, and cruise control wouldn't engage. After I drove it, shut down and restarted, all was normal. When I checked with AlfaOBD, it reported U0212, Lost Communication with Steering Column Control Module, and U0126, No Communication with Steering Angle Sensor.
After about a month of this, I began to wonder if either a marginal battery or too much sitting was the problem, since it was always fine after a shutdown and restart. I put a battery maintainer on it and that was the end of the problem. Been about 18 months now.
That experience makes me wonder if the mechanic killing the battery might have had something to do with it. If it were me, I would definitely have the battery load tested, and be absolutely certain that it is fully charged.
Why should Jeep/Fiat dealers be required to renew arrangements with a member of the same organisation?What will we do, once the remaining dealers decide not to renew their arrangement with Chrysler??
I always use "silver" batteries, and always get 5 to 7 years (8 on two of them) from a battery.Why should Jeep/Fiat dealers be required to renew arrangements with a member of the same organisation?
Anyway, I'm pleased that you were finally able to find a dealer who could solve the problem.
Today, I had my 10yr old Bosch Silver battery replaced by Halfords with an equivalent Yuasa Silver battery, also with 5yr warranty. Job done in 10 mins and no subsequent issues, other than a message on radio screen telling me that I needed to change the transmission fluid.
One feature I like with this battery, is the "state of charge indicator", There is a small window in the top of the battery with what looks like a green fluid beneath. Apparently, the colour changes to black when discharged.
This is GREAT that you take the time to relate what happened for the benefit of all.Problem fixed !!!
For completeness, I will mention again how the whole saga started, the symtoms and the solution.
The car (Chrysler 300C CRD 2007), was left by the mechanic on the ramp for 24hours with the key in the ignition. This resulted in the battery going completely flat. He then removed the battery and put in on the bench to charge, whilst he was doing other work on the car.
When he then started the car again, the Traction Control, ESP/BAS and ABS lights were on and did not go out. He (we) tried all possible fixes, including resetting the steering angle and key dance, but none worked.
The car was driving normally and all the functions worked, including the cruise control and shifting gears at the correct revs (this detail is important !!).
If the cruise control does not work or the car is in limp mode, then the cause is probably either a wheel speed sensor, a broken tone (reluctor) ring or something else.
Another mechanic with another scanner found a number of fault codes and erased them all, but for the ones below that would not erase:
You can see, that apart from the first and last code, the others make no sense at all.
- B1A28 Communication between the component <Engine control unit> and the .... incorrect
- B2107 Ignition/starter switch faulty
- P2067 Fuel level sensor B Signal too low
- P0462 Front fog headlight switch, Rear fog light switch Signal too low
- B1808 Passenger side door lock switch Signal faulty
- U0121 Anti-lock braking system: CAN signal Communication error
Speaking to yet another mechanic (ex Chrysler) with all the necessary scanning equipment and software, he suggested that the car needs a reconfiguration and that this could only be done by a dealer.
After phoning around, I eventually found the dealer below, who in 20 minutes reconfigured the car (after a 2 1/2 hour drive!!). The technician mentioned that they have to download the configuration file from the internet, and I am assuming that in order to do that, they need to have some sort of dealer account (£££) with Chrysler.
What will we do, once the remaining dealers decide not to renew their arrangement with Chrysler??
D Salmon Cars
Tel: 01206 715200
Now, why do these lights come on, with no possibility of turning them off without a reconfiguration?
These are my thoughts:
I suspect, that if the key is left in the ignition, either in the ACC or ON position (or maybe even just left pushed in!) and the battery goes completely flat, the ECU does not shut down properly and as a result the configuration file gets corrupted. Just like your laptop or PC suddenly being switched off at the mains! You may get away with it a few times, but sooner or later, it will corrupt the software.
If on the other hand, you were to take the battery out, to, for example replace it, you would very probably have taken the key out and in so doing, the ECU would have had the necessary time to shut down properly. Also, probably, the car will have capacitors, which will have stored enough power to shut down the ECU in case of sudden power loss. BUT, with the key in the ignition, the ECU assumes that power is available and therefore does not initiate the shut down procedure and the capacitors would slowly discharge.
Thank you all for your thoughts and suggestions, and in particular to Rockin' Rebel (see post #14) who saved my bacon!!!