[H. Lodge]

Hello,

I have been lurking these boards for quite some time now after I found out I might be able to afford the base 300 model. I know most of you have purchased C's (beautiful cars) but I can't afford the payment on that expensive of a car at this point in time. The purpose of my post is to find out if there are any members that have bought the base model, and if so, to get answers to a few questions I have. I've read the post about driving the 2.7L motor, it has a modest output for it's size but I can't upgrade the motor without going with the touring edition, which is also out of my price range based on the options I would like to get. I currently drive a 1991 Acura Legend with 186k miles, so the motor should feel somewhat similar (I hope). I've gotten a price quote from a dealer, they told me the base model starts at $24,575 but the Chrysler website clearly states MSRP incl. Destination is $23,595. I would add NAV, UConnect and ESP, which will add approx. $3,100 to the MSRP. This brings me up around $26,600.

So here are my questions:

• What are my chances of getting the car below MSRP? (Edmund's is reporting the car is being sold at MSRP)
• Is the ESP package justifiable for $1,000? (I've never had ABS or traction control on any car before and I'm still alive...)
• Should I even bother trying to trade in my car?

This would be my first purchase of a car from a dealership, new or used, I really appreciate any help you all can provide me with and any valuable information that I've failed to ask about is more than welcome and much appreciated.

Thanks in advance for the help.

 

[mileshoover]

...I've read the post about driving the 2.7L motor, it has a modest output for it's size but I can't upgrade the motor without going with the touring edition, which is also out of my price range based on the options I would like to get. I currently drive a 1991 Acura Legend with 186k miles, so the motor should feel somewhat similar (I hope). I've gotten a price quote from a dealer, they told me the base model starts at $24,575 but the Chrysler website clearly states MSRP incl. Destination is $23,595. I would add NAV, UConnect and ESP, which will add approx. $3,100 to the MSRP. This brings me up around $26,600.

So here are my questions:

• What are my chances of getting the car below MSRP? (Edmund's is reporting the car is being sold at MSRP)
• Is the ESP package justifiable for $1,000? (I've never had ABS or traction control on any car before and I'm still alive...)
• Should I even bother trying to trade in my car?

...

First, i would go to the DC site, www.chrysler.com and price out both level cars and see just what the current price is. Both the "C" model and the NAV system have gone up in price, the car + $1K, the NAV + $500. So, I'm not sure what to tell you.

Also, just a very few 300's other than "C" models have been reported by members but that doesn't mean you aren't welcome.

I don't know the 2.7L engine, but do know the 3.5L one in that I had three of them since 1993. It is a great engine which I would get if at all possible. Also, find yourself a reasonable dealer nearby, make an appointment with the internet guy (via their website), and go drive the two engines, if an when they have them present. That shouldn't be too difficult because it ts the "C" which is backordered.

Another item to keep in mind is that the "C" weight over 4100 pounds. I know that the other models weigh a bit less but still around 2 TONS! I just don't know how satisfactory that 2.7L engine will be. You must drive it to see that yourself.

Buying any car below MSRP is a poke in the bag. It depends upon supply and demand, your credit, your trade, your will to bargain, etc. Myself, I managed to get $2500 off my "C" but this one is my 63d new car since 1950 and I dealt with the dealer before.

If the ESP package is available on the car you are considering, by all means buy if for your and your family's safety. if for no other reason.

Sure, try to trade your car, but don't mention that fact until you have finished your negotiotions, including financing. Then put the trade into the question. BUT know what you are talking about, i.e., determine its current value. There are various ways to do this -- compare similar cars to ads in your local nuewpapers, check out Consumer Reports, etc. But don't go overboard, but also don't go to the dealer as a "cherry." They'll see you coming and walk all over you.

Also determine your credit rating BEFORE you go to the dealer. How? Numerous ways, For example, Quicken financial software will do it for you for a small fee, etc.

I notice you want the NAV package -- fine, it's absolutely great, but you're looking at close to $2K or more. Though I have it on my "C", I'd much rather skip the NAV than the ESP.

Now this long winded post should get the juices of others flowing. But in any case, GET YOUR DUCKS IN A ROW and know from where you bargain BEFORE you go to any dealer.

Then, take it easy, go slow and don't let anyone push you into something you don't want or can't afford.

Above all, have fun. Wish I could help you more personally but I live in Northern VA; are you anywhere nearby?

 

[indyCoder]

I keep hearing about this price increase but I don't see it on the web site. The car I have (every option except cold weather group and smokers package) is still MSRP: $38,555.00

 

[mileshoover]

I haven't gone looking for that stuff on the DC web sites since I have my "C" since 4/29/04. Even then my MSRP for a loaded car (missing only the CW heater) was $38715. Go figger.

But I'm sure it is true. DC, in the past, has not been very propitious in updating their site. You may be looking at a $1500 increase dependent upon when you order(ed).

 

[chad_c_u]

I just ordered my 300-C and I got it for $750 over invoice price (Midwest Kansas). If you call enough dealers, someone is bound to sell you a base model for under MSRP. If you would like the name of my dealer, I am sure he would make you a deal. I would call around to smaller dealers in your area and talk to the sales manager. If you are upfront about the cost you are willing to pay, after enough phone calls, I promise someone will make a lower than MSRP deal happen.
Tips:
Don't be scared to walk away from a price.
Never call the dealer back, it gives them the upper hand. Sometimes if the car hasnt moved in a few weeks, they will make you the deal.
Learn patience...The dealer is after a sale...make them work for your money.
Make them make the choice of making a little money...or none.
When making a final offer, make sure they know its that price plus taxes...no hidden fees, paper work fees or extras...If there is a fee make them take it off their price not add to yours. Once a deal is that far few dealerships will back out over $100, but make them know you will.

 

[SilverHemi]

This is just a hunch, but I think your chances of getting a base model at a considerable discount are excellent. This is simply not the car that most are after and
they will be stacking up on the dealers lots as production ramps up. I nearly went the
route myself but since I could afford the Hemi, I got it, and I'm glad I did. I think the base model will satisfy anyone who wants the looks but doesn't care about the
bit of added vibration from the V-6 and the lack of punch in the passing lane. It's a heck of a lot of car for the money. If I were doing it, though, I would buy it stripped (except maybe ESP) and add the options I wanted aftermarket.

 

[limeyg]

Here in Canada the smallest engine even on the base is the 3.5 and comes standard with esp and all the other goodies.
I personally have the 300 limited and just love my car. There is no vibration with the six or lack of acceleration for normal driving. I get excellent gas mileage and have no need for the v8 in the type of driving that I do. I also run on regular gas.
I think the 2.7 engine would possibly be a little underpowered.

 

[urbanchemist]

i live in south florida and i am in the process of getting a base model 300 right now. i pretty much hit up every dealership within 50 miles and they all pretty much offered MSRP on the base 300. i am working with one dealership now and it looks like i might get it a little bit up MSRP maybe $500 or so. just waiting for my vanilla beauty to be delivered to the dealership. hopefully they wont be any later then this weekend. hope this helps in your decision

 

[redwinger]

In Minnesota selling bases at around 300-400 over invoice sometimes less.

 

[H. Lodge]

Thank you all for the advice and assistance. I am currently looking at '99-'04 Acura RL's as well, I would like to get a brand new car but my Legend has treated me so well that I owe it to Acura to at least consider an upgrade. The 300 is attractive because it offers NAV and UConnect along with a beautifully styled car for a price that is nearly unmatched. The 2.7L motor is a small sacrifice in my mind to get the NAV and UConnect. I will be visiting my local dealer on Saturday to see what kind of a deal they can give me.

I'd prefer not to get the NAV aftermarket. My friend installs stereos and alarms locally for the dodge/chrysler/jeep dealers and he said if he was buying a new car, he would pay for it upfront. I would have him install a remote start and alarm aftermarket, as he will be using the same systems the car would've had if I purchased it with the vehicle. And for 300$ it's hard to pass on the UConnect. I'll get the ESP package as it does seem like it is worth it for 1,000$

After speaking with the internet sales rep at the one dealership it seemed that he wasn't interested in selling a base model, so I am not going to return to that dealer unless I am 100% sure this is the car I am getting.

 

[II kings 9:20]

Hey H. Lodge before I bought my C I first ordered a limited and easily got it for $500 above invoice not MSRP and I was at that time eligible for a 1K rebate. You should do at least that well on a base model. My local dealer matched the big city dealer (Ricart auto, worlds largest dealer 110 acre city with traffic signals, 1-888-DEAL-USA, talk to Mike Mosley if you are willing to travel)

 

[IndySilverC]

So, my question as I post for the very first time here is------am I already a chump that has lost all price-leverage?

July 17th, I placed an order through my local dealership for the 300C of my dreams [Br Silver Metallic, Drk/Lt Gray trim, w/ Sound II and U-Connect options]. I was told to expect delivery ~mid September, and to actually place the order I plunked down $500.

Do I have any room left to negotiate [w/ my old trade in, dealer financing, any specials active at time of delivery, etc.] or am I already at the point where I have to bend over?

It's worth noting that this will be the 4th vehicle I've ever purchased, but only the second I've purchased new [and the first was a no-haggle Saturn back at a time when that meant no haggling]. I'm not great at bargaining, and I think it's apparent that I've already tipped my hand in seriously wanting the 300. Does anyone have any negotiation tips for this haggle-newbie?

At this stage in 300C availability, I get the impression that they don't need me personally to buy, since if I walked away at this point they could probably move the car off the lot in under a week anyway---supply and demand.

IndySilverC

 

[mileshoover]

...to actually place the order I plunked down $500.

Do I have any room left to negotiate [w/ my old trade in, dealer financing, any specials active at time of delivery, etc.] or am I already at the point where I have to bend over?
...

Sure you do. I'm assuming that your $500 was a deposit, not a down payment? Short of DC's and the dealer's view of price increases, you do have a contract with the dealer. Read it carefully, particularly on the back, to see what your options are. Typically, I always add certain items, which in retrospect, may or may not help you.

1. Alway state that acceptance of the car is subject to your prior sale inspection, including a pre-acceptance driving test. Dealer permitted to repair items mutually agreed upon prior to delivery, if any.

2. (In you are so inclined, I am) Insist that ALL dealer advertisements must be removed prior to delivery without damage to the car.

3. When satisfied with the car, the sale to be negotiated to the satisfaction of both parties.

4. Failure to do the above will result in a void sale and refund of your depost.

Couple of "gotcha's" --

Upon receipt of the car, avoid the "gotta have" feeling and do religiously item # 1 above.

Be prepared to walk away, if you are not comfortable with what is going on. YOU are in charge, act that way. It is just a car!! More can be had elsewhwere. So you wait a bit, if necessary. This is an essential part of your pre-purchase attitude. Any other way and you are a "patsie."

(But oh, what a car!) :^))

Enjoy your new ride and welcome to our forums.

 

[II kings 9:20]

Never bend over, the worst you can do is keep your money. Miles gives excellent advice which I have done verbally and backed out on two occasions and both dealers cheerfully refunded my $500, the salesman stated at the time that the deposit was refundable and they made good on thier word. Better to write it down and I will do so on future orders. If a dealer wants to hassle and be a jerk they can do so even if it is written (they just won't get away with it in court). I ordered an Acura MDX last year and decided on a Sienna after two weeks of thought, I cancelled well before it arrived and had no problem with the refund. You can cancel now, get your refund, and begin at square one. I would call several dealers and find out who will sell for the best price (most Cs are at MSRP) and give your original dealer the opportunity to earn your business. If you are trading you are kind of screwed because whatever discount you get they will get it back on a low ball trade in. Always better to sell it yourself if that is practical with various ruffians and deadbeats coming to your house, better to have them go to your office (ebay? I have done it, both buy and sell). You can't expect any better than low auction price and frankly if you ran the dealership you would likely do the same, I know I would.

 

[joey]

I was talking to my dealer (in California) on Friday and told him I didn't want any advertising added to the car. He said it is illegal in California to add advertising to cars. Not sure what other states make it illegal.

With regards to a trade-in, I think you lose all leverage since you have already agreed on a price/sale. While my dealer is "willing" to give me an offer on my car, I seriously doubt the offer he will give me will be near/close to what it would have been if I was negotiating for a car on the lot.
Yes, I suppose you could refuse your new C because you don't like the trade-in offer, but I doubt most of us are going to walk away from our long awaited C because of a poor trade-in price.
I have already started the process of trying to sell my car via the newspaper and internet.

 

[jimv]

Just a note about the options listed on the DC Canada website. For some reason it does not list the Comfort Group (dual climate control, audio controls on wheel, power passenger seat, one-touch express windows on both sides, trip computer, etc.) This is, however, available.

I just ordered a Touring model with the above, plus Protection Group I, sunroof and power adjustable pedals. I was originally considering a hemi, but after trying out the big six I decided this package would do quite nicely and it costs out at about CND $10,000 less.

 

[Cdnhemi]

Just a note about the options listed on the DC Canada website. For some reason it does not list the Comfort Group (dual climate control, audio controls on wheel, power passenger seat, one-touch express windows on both sides, trip computer, etc.) This is, however, available.

I just ordered a Touring model with the above, plus Protection Group I, sunroof and power adjustable pedals. I was originally considering a hemi, but after trying out the big six I decided this package would do quite nicely and it costs out at about CND $10,000 less.

These options that you are talking about are standard features on the C, so I am not sure what you mean unless you are talking about the base 300 or the limited or the touring.

We get most of the features on the C here in Canada that are options in the US. About the only thing that is classed as options here in Canada are the protecton group,and nav. Sirrus and the u-connect are not available, although I believe u-connect has just been made available and this info was made available from tech support at u-connect in Texas.

 

[IndySilverC]

Hey Guys, thanks for the advice on haggle---I've started practicing saying "No." and pretending to be uninterested, looking like I could walk away.
I realize it is just a car, but it is in my opinion the nicest car in my price range--but of course on this site, I'm preaching to the choir.
When the transaction happens, I'll let you all know what happened.

On a side note, how many sales guys do you think are lurking on this site?

IndySilverC

 

[jimv]

These options that you are talking about are standard features on the C, so I am not sure what you mean unless you are talking about the base 300 or the limited or the touring.

Yes, I was talking about the Touring (or any six cylinder model for that matter.) I realize the Cs come fully loaded.