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Hi everyone, I was recently gifted a 06 300 SRT8 with about 135k miles. It wasn't used much before it was given to me however the previous owner rebuilt most of the front end albeit with cheap parts. It does have some gremlins. When driving over bumps their is an audible noise. The key works intermittently. Also I did have to fill some antifreeze because of a small crack in the radiator. I did fill it, I know it's only temporary. The power steering whines. I have an EVAP code. Will scan it tomorrow and check for more codes. The right rear passenger side brake is squealing like crazy. Also cracked a wheel the other day givin it some. I read that the rear axle fluid needs to be replaced. The transmission was never serviced, will a few partial drain and refills be enough? Is an oil catch can really necessary? I apologize for the wordy post. Basically what would you guys recommend to do ASAP? I'm not familiar with the SRT8s. I was thinking plugs, plug wires, and power steering pump to start. As far as budget I would say 3500. Thank you guys. Also I'm in the covid-19 central so repair shops are limited. I did find a local SRT8 speed shop to help with things I can't handle.
 

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On the transmission, first do you have a dipstick, if not get one. Then what's the condition of the fluid, that'll inform you're next move. Finally one of my favorite maintenance tricks is to tap into the transmission cooler lines with a drain valve. Then while doing my oil changes I'll run the engine, open the valve, and drain some out(usually 1qt, 2 if it needs it), I'll then add back in the same amount I took out.

It sounds like you have bigger worries then a catch can. I'd prioritize a lot of other things before that.
 

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There's a couple of good threads here (Link) and here (Link) on transmission fluid, there's a video embedded in the first one.

You'll need a dipstick, an infra red thermometer and the clip/locking pin that enables the dipstick cap to be refitted like the one in this listing (Link)

And this graph (Link)
 

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On your brake question two thoughts:
1. the parking brake shoes are fitted inside the rear disc. They seize (you can get parts from places like autozone (shoes, Hardware).
2. you'll find that the composite pistons Chrysler use swell over time causing the brake pads not to retract properly after braking. It's usually easier to replace the whole caliper
On the power steering try the baster method to replace the fluid over a few weeks. You might find that sorts the wining (and doesn't cost much)

Make very sure you're using the right engine oil, these cars don't like the wrong grade

What code are you seeing for the EVAP?
 

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Welcome aboard, Tyler. A few thoughts on your SRT:

It sounds like the PO's experience was exactly like mine. I have an LX (300C) and an LD (Charger R/T Blacktop), and they're both rattle and squeak monsters. I've replaced virtually everything I can think of and it's made no difference on either car. I haven't tried the brake caliper slide pins, those'll be next.

Speaking of brakes, may as well get those done front & rear. Consider upgrading to BR9 "Pursuit" brakes in the front, it's not an expensive mod and if you're doing brakes anyway, you're halfway there. Just google "krautmaster BR9 upgrade", and you'll find an excellent thread on our sister site that will tell you everything you could ever want to know about that swap.

Do your research before you change out your radiator. Google is your friend, and you'll get more results if you use "Charger" in place of "300". The short version is that you might want to consider the Severe Duty I radiator. They're pretty reasonable in cost but you have to change your hoses and you may need to tweak the fit. Whatever radiator you choose, you may want to go with new hoses anyway. It's a fairly straightforward job and you can likely do it yourself.

Don't trust anybody to put in the right coolant, it should be 50/50 HOAT and distilled water. A coolant flush is a good idea since someone may have mixed in OAT, or God forbid, IAT or who knows what. Even Mopar dealerships get this wrong. Without knowing what you put in, you may have done it yourself. I try to stay away from Mopar-brand HOAT because the bottle looks exactly like their OAT, only the part number is different, and it can be hard to tell from the colors what you've got. If you want to use the Mopar stuff, let me know and I'll go out to the barn and get the correct part number for you. Zerex G05, Motorcraft Gold and Peak Global Lifetime are all good, economical HOAT coolants.

I'd go with a synthetic ATF like Valvoline Max Life. What I would do in your case is a passive flush, where you disconnect the cooling lines, start the engine and let one line draw in fresh ATF, and the other empty the used fluid into a bucket. But if you don't have a good mechanic to do that for you, just do a pan drop, change the fluid and filter, and then swap in a Dorman 265-866 pan. That one comes with a drain plug so you can do regular partial changes quick and easy. You can change your ATF every time you change your oil, if you like, until you're satisfied you've got mostly clean fluid in there. I too recommend a dipstick, but I don't understand why you would need any kind of clip or attachment for it. I just bought an APSG-brand NAG1 dipstick from that big website named after a river in South America, popped out the original cap, and popped in the dipstick.

Plugs. They should be copper on an '06. They're only good for 30k or so, may as well change them if the PO hasn't recently. If the PO swapped them out for platinum or iridium and the car runs fine, leave 'em alone. But most of us prefer to stick with copper on the first-gen Hemis. You should have coil-on-plug, so no spark plug wires.

May as well change out the rear diff fluid while you're at it. A bottle or two of synthetic (check your manual for the right grade) will be all you need there. I'd want to flush the brake fluid with something like Pentosin Super DOT4, and the power steering fluid as well. I'd use Max Life ATF for that, but fair warning, some folks will tell you to stick with gen-yoo-wine Mopar power steering fluid. Your call. If you're lucky, fresh, high-quality fluid may solve the whining problem, but more likely, you'll need to swap out the pump at some point.

Oh, and just find a respected local mechanic for your work. You don't need to pay speed shop prices for basic maintenance and repair.

I don't understand how you cracked a wheel purely with acceleration, but, the good news is you should be able to find a replacement on Craigslist, or at a local boneyard without too much trouble. Just to share an opinion, consider staying with stock wheels or something close, like OEM wheels from another Mopar like a Charger. The first gen cars have a sort of classic appearance now that I think can easily be ruined with some goofy-looking, oversized aftermarket rims.
 

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The reason for the clip is that the dipsticks are not supposed to stay in NAG1 transmissions between services. You remove the cap (that breaks the locking clip), check and service the transmission fluid, remove the dipstick and replace the cap (with new locking pin/clip).

There are a few dipsticks now like this (Link) that claim it's OK to leave them in all the time. Never tried one of those so can't make any claim positive or negative on the effect
 

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The reason for the clip is that the dipsticks are not supposed to stay in NAG1 transmissions between services. You remove the cap (that breaks the locking clip), check and service the transmission fluid, remove the dipstick and replace the cap (with new locking pin/clip).

There are a few dipsticks now like this (Link) that claim it's OK to leave them in all the time. Never tried one of those so can't make any claim positive or negative on the effect
The dipstick I have in both my cars and recommended to the OP, has the same twist-to-lock design and o-ring seal as the original cap. I didn't break anything taking the cap off, and I didn't need anything extra to secure the new ones.

While there are "universal" and other dipsticks that aren't meant to be left in place...I've even seen 36" cable ties used for that purpose...that's not what I use or recommend.
 

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Ah that's the type I saw but have never used. Assuming that has been all good in yours then?

Good to have a positive recommendation on that type
 

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Ah that's the type I saw but have never used. Assuming that has been all good in yours then?

Good to have a positive recommendation on that type
Five years in my 300 and two in my Charger. No issues so far.
 

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I have that same dipstick as Carl(except the one for my year), leave it in, works just like an old school dipstick, so far so good.
 

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Discussion Starter #12 (Edited)
Hi everyone, thank you for all the great replies. Just scanned it I have three confirmed codes P0456, P0157, and P0158. Two pending P0456 and P0158.

Is the permanent trans dipstick as accurate as using the other type with thermometer and chart?
Is their any major advantage switching to Valvoline Max ATF vs OEM?
Which brand would you guys recommend for rear calipers? Power Stop Red Powdercoated Performance Calipers S5084
These look exactly like the original 4 piston but are labeled as 2.

It looks like there was some shearing on the edge of the rotor but I can't see anything that would be scraping it. Going through old notes from the PO and the parking brakes were removed. When I inspected the wheel, there were two spots that have splits. Also mixed up the modern Hemi with the older 426, no more plug wires. I'll pick up pentosin super dot 4, I think prestone dot 4 was used by the PO. Sorry for the messy post, have to get back to work. I really appreciate all of the replies. I do have another local mechanic I would be willing to use.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Priced out oil for the rear diff and $25 for a quart( if you buy 2) is absurd. Valvoline is half the price. Is taking the cheaper option going to hurt me?
 

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Priced out oil for the rear diff and $25 for a quart( if you buy 2) is absurd. Valvoline is half the price. Is taking the cheaper option going to hurt me?
As long as it meets the specs, you're good. I have M1 in one diff and Valvoline in the other.
 

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I use a white 3' long ziptie for a trans dipstick, it's marked off in 10mm increments with 22mm being cold oil level and 70 mm the target level with 180 degrees in the ATF. Much easier to read too!
When servicing, disconnect the trans return line from the trans case and put a clear plastic tube on it, then run engine to pump out 3.5 liters of fluid, refill with fresh, then do it again. This will effectively flush out the converter and make for a nice-shifting transmission. Oil fill in pan after filter service should be 5.3 quarts or around 5 liters. Flushing procedure is straight out of Mercedes-Benz manuals, since that's who made the NAG1 trans.
Keep us posted!
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Have everything I need to service the transmission and the rear end. I most likely need a power steering pump. I see cardone has a new pump for about $84 and the mopar pump is $216. Which would you guys prefer? I would hate for the cardone pump to crap out on me and have to buy another. Thanks for all the info.
 

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Where are you located? If anywhere close to san jose california. I can help with most of your problems. And also have a autoenginuity diagnostic tool to help diagnose some of your problems

Sent from my SM-N920P using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Where are you located? If anywhere close to san jose california. I can help with most of your problems. And also have a autoenginuity diagnostic tool to help diagnose some of your problems

Sent from my SM-N920P using Tapatalk
I very much appreciate the offer but I'm in Long Island, New York. I have an obdlink mx+ that I've used on my girlfriend's Toyota but it doesn't function the same on the 300. I see the autoenginuity diagnostic tool is $249. Is it worth it?
 

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I have an obdlink mx+ that I've used on my girlfriend's Toyota but it doesn't function the same on the 300.
Whaaaa? I would slay a dragon for an MX+. That is the exact module suggested by the developer of AlfaOBD and it absolutely will work on your car. Download the free trial version of the software and try it.
 

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Whaaaa? I would slay a dragon for an MX+. That is the exact module suggested by the developer of AlfaOBD and it absolutely will work on your car. Download the free trial version of the software and try it.
I've never heard of AlfaOBD until now lol. I'm using the MX+ app and their isn't additional support for Chrysler vehicles. Autoenginuity vs MX+ with AlphaOBD. Which would you guys prefer besides the difference in price? Also which could solve my small emissions leak better?
 
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