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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Thought I would transfer my heating problems to a new thread.

History
I put a new turbo on in march and renewed all the bulbs on the heater circuit board in April. Only noticed on a colder day I only had cold air coming through the vents, the aircon clicked on but there was no difference in temp.
I took all 3 door actuators off and tested for correct operation, I connected them back up and tested them for operation when the controls were moved and all did.
I did notice a clicking sound from the actuator on its own ( drivers side uk model ), it did use to happen more when braking but this has now stopped.
Heater core was flushed both ways a few times and filled with correct antifreeze, then left running with heater on hot and blower on the pipes to and from the heater did not get hot only warm.
I renewed the thermostat for a new one.

So that's where I am and stuck, is it a air in system problem, or should a look at the door actuator mechanism, is there a heater valve in the system.

I have posted a simple drawing of how I think the heater system is fed, I presume the feed is from the back of the engine (1) and returns to the block where the bottom hose is attached, the line to (6) is the return to the expansion tank and goes underneath the engine.

Am I right or not
 

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The plumbing seems a bit more complicated - see extract fron Service Manual. Unfortunately, the numbered components are not described for the 3.0 engine, but they are for all the others.
BTW, there are many DTCs listed for the heating system, but you would need a superior diagnostic tool to find them; maybe Diagfca?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I only have a basic code reader might be an idea to get my local mobile mechanic to read them, he has a far better machine that reads all codes.
 

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As you are the sort who likes getting down to the nitty grittys, you would probably find Diagfca a very useful tool. The software isn't expensive, but you would need a laptop or tablet with a suitable operating system. I have checked that it does cover the HVAC module. I would like to get the sofware myself, but first I need to get a suitable computer.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
I have suitable laptops for XP but I just dropped a door down my leg, not normally a problem except this was a very heavy type.
Also it's in the minus temp here and I'm a wimp yeah I know.

So sat with leg up bandaged and waiting to see how much it swells and stops bleeding, can't take any more painkillers as I'm on lots

Oh dear
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
No I spend too much time at hospitals I'll suffer at home, I got my dog to keep it excersized
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Forgot to mention after getting my car up to temp and a short run the temp on my live data said 102 deg
 

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I would get it looked at by a doctor and maybe X-Rayed. If you have a lot of pain and swelling, it may be a fracture.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Well rested after the xmas fun and as the temp got up to 8deg, I thought it was time to sort a few problems out.
First one reversing light was out and found a connector was corroded up, so soldered the wire and added a wire to my rear camera so sorted.

The front indicators are now led with ballast resisters fitted, so front lens has no orange reflection of the bulbs so sorted.


Now the heating so far all 3 blend actuators work and when plugged in they all move when asked to do from the controls, the linkages all respond when moved.
The pipe into the heater core is worm its cold on the outlet, I flushed it in December both ways so it's not blocked. Still blows cold air so can't defrost front screen when frozen so can't use the car.
Is there a electric valave fitted to the water side if yes where is it and where does the feed come from, checked fuses back and front.
The strange clicking sound I had from the front dash has gone ( who knows where ), so I'm still with a cold car to drive with a good coat and gloves.
 

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I couldn't find any reference to an electric water valve in the Service Manual, so I doubt one exists. However, it does say that if the inlet pipe to the heater matrix is hot and the outlet is cold, then there must be an obstruction somewhere. As you have flushed the heater matrix OK, my guess is that you might have an air lock, so perhaps you should try bleeding the complete system. Last year, I had my coolant renewed by a Jeep dealership and they told me that they found it very difficult to bleed all the air from the system.

Hope your leg is OK now.
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
Well when I get time it rains or is cold, so when a hot day occurred (7 deg) I thought I would try a new angle.

I rigged up a bleeding set up to go after the heater matrix outlet, well I could see it but I couldn't get to it.
Will have to have another go when things are quieter, because I don't drive much it's not been a problem this winter as I have another car I can use.
 

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You could try this method of bleeding (not Chrysler specific): Remove reservoir filler cap, run engine and turn heater temp. control to max. As engine warms up to operating temp (may take some time), you should see any air present bubble up through the reservoir.
 
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