[Reynard]

My 300c CRD refuses to start - I turn the ignition on, wait for the seat to adjust and for the pre-heat light to go out, then turn the key to the start position and all I get is a click, which I assume is the starter solenoid working, but the starter motor does not engage and the engine does not turn over. Admittedly the car is not used regularly but I don't think it should be the battery as I use a 'smart' charger to maintain it. EVIC reads about 12 volts. I have also tried connecting a known good battery with jump leads and still the same problem. Even tried connecting to another car; started the engine on other car (EVIC then shows 14+ volts) and with an assistant standing by to disconnect jump leads I tried to start the 'C' - still nothing more than a click from the solenoid. As far as I can recall the car makes all the usual noises when turning ignition on (fuel pump etc) and I don't remember any warning lights.

Makes me think it is either the starter motor which may have packed up, or perhaps some more sinister electrical or immobiliser fault. Does anybody have any thoughts or suggestions as to what (or how) to check next? I recall reading somewhere on here about crank sensors, TPMS connections and chafed wiring on A/C pipes causing starting problems - did they produce similar symptoms? If so what should I check &/or where should I inspect the wiring.

Would appreciate any thoughts, ideas or comments.

Cheers,
Dave

 

[[email protected]]

If its defo the solenoid clicking and not a relay I would say its more likely to be the starter motor than the immobiliser (you could try tapping it with a hammer from underneath). If it were the crank sensor it would turn over but not start. If it is the immobiliser you can try disconnecting the front tpms sensors (inside the wheel arch liner attached to the front bumper) and it may start.

 

[[email protected]]

This is probably not the problem but worth checking whilst underneath http://www.wkjeeps.com/misc/LX/TSB_300C_Forums/Rapid_Response_09052a.pdf

 

[jackwalton]

Relay 9 in the front fuse box is the one that has to energise to send 12V to the starter solenoid.
If you see the drawing attached I have marked in "Blue" the contacts that have to make to send the 12V to the solenoid.
If you turn the ignition to "Run" (All dashboard lights on), unplug relay 9 and apply a short acroos the 2 pins I've marked in Blue this should apply 12V across the solenoid, the solenoid should energise (Fairly Loud Click) and starter should turn. If it doesnt click or turn its either the solenoid or wiring or a bad connection on the heavy duty cable from the battery to the starter motor or the motor itself.
You could do these checks under the car at the starter motor itself but its not easy to get to. If the above doesnt cause starter motor to turn its a good thing insomuch as its a simple starter motor or starter motor wiring problem rather than an electronics or engine logic problem.

By the way there is an insulated lead through connector in the drivers footwell that feeds the Heavy Duty cable through from the inside of the car to the engine compartment and eventually to the starter motor if you have to check the sytem for bad connections.
Most likely a duff starter motor though.

Jack

 

[[email protected]]

24 hours after I purchased my car the solenoid exciter wire in the harness between the fuse box and the solenoid broke and all I got was a small click from the relay when trying to start it. Took the dealer 9days to fix it.

 

[badgx]

It sounds like a problem with the solenoids on your starter motor. If your able to reach in, try tapping the starter motor with a hammer but not too hard that you damage it and see if it starts? The are some places that do starter motor exchange with warranty, might work out cheaper or you could try ebay or Charltons, they give 101 days guarantee :yup:

 

[Sonsarus Amaryllus]

If you do determine it's the starter motor try the main dealer. I had to by one for my Jeep GC Hemi and the main dealer only wanted £70 for a new one (Mitsubishi). I don't know if the CRD is Chrysler or Merc.

 

[badgx]

The front windscreen wiper motor on ours is Denso, it might be from a Mitsubishi too :yup:

Starter motor, it could also be a Bosch?

 

[steelblue300c]

I had exactly the same symptoms. My man suspected the starter solenoid, He replaced it & its not done it since !

 

[Reynard]

Thanks for the tips guys - I have been away on business for the last few days so have not had a chance to follow up on anything yet but will try to investigate further this coming weekend. Just a couple more thoughts/questions however:

- I shall have to 'volunteer' the wife to stick her head under bonnet to determine whether the click is coming from the solenoid or from a relay; I know the relays will be in the fusebox, but whereabouts is the solenoid - is it built into the starter motor itself or is it a separate unit somewhere else within the engine bay?

- if I want to get to the TPMS sensors I have to get past the wheel arch liners which seem to be held in place by strange plastic fittings if I remember correctly; how do I undo or remove them? Do they just pull (or push) out? Am I right in thinking that sometimes they get knackered in the removal process and I would then have to source some replacement fittings so that I could re-fit the wheel arch liners?

 

[UK CHRYSLER 300C]

if there's clicking it wont be your immobiliser so you shouldnt need to unplug the TPMS,when the immobiliser cuts in you get no noise at all and the red alarm light stays lit

 

[[email protected]]

The solenoid is on the starter motor.

I doubt its the immobiliser but if you think it is the plastic rivets are not reusable unless they have been changed to a different kind in the past. To remove the factory fitted type you have to push the centre inwards hard with a screwdriver, then they will pull out. You can get reusable ones from halfrauds, the stock size is 1/4".

 

[Reynard]

Went to investigate further today, intending to try Jackwalton's suggestion about putting a short circuit across relay terminals, however my front fuse box does not seem to be the same as the one in Jack's diagram - sorry, can't work out how to attach a picture of mine but it has 13 mini fuses located in two banks, 9 cartridge fuses in two more banks, plus one cartridge fuse on its own. Then there are 8 rectangular relays and 5 larger square relays. The cavities/sockets into which these all fitare numbered (on the underside of the lid) from 1 to 40(ish). None of the relays are in space 9 - that has a blue fuse in it. My owner's manual does not give any information about which relay does what. Am I looking in the wrong place? If not how do I identify which is the starter relay?

Interestingly, I noted in my manual that fuse 20 was the starter fuse, so I pulled it out to see if it had blown (it hadn't); I tried turning the ignition key to start with that fuse removed and of course nothing happened - however when I replaced the fuse and tried again the engine started. I let it run for a few minutes, then turned it off and tried starting again. First attempt = just a click. Second attempt = engine starts. Several subsequent attempts = just clicks. To my way of thinking all of this seems to suggest that either the starter motor, the starter solenoid (or possibly the starter relay) is a bit dodgy. Does this sound right?

Has anybody tried a DIY removal of the starter motor? Is it relatively easy? I'm guessing that it has to be done from underneath?

 

[jackwalton]

Went to investigate further today, intending to try Jackwalton's suggestion about putting a short circuit across relay terminals, however my front fuse box does not seem to be the same as the one in Jack's diagram - sorry, can't work out how to attach a picture of mine but it has 13 mini fuses located in two banks, 9 cartridge fuses in two more banks, plus one cartridge fuse on its own. Then there are 8 rectangular relays and 5 larger square relays. The cavities/sockets into which these all fitare numbered (on the underside of the lid) from 1 to 40(ish). None of the relays are in space 9 - that has a blue fuse in it. My owner's manual does not give any information about which relay does what. Am I looking in the wrong place? If not how do I identify which is the starter relay?

Interestingly, I noted in my manual that fuse 20 was the starter fuse, so I pulled it out to see if it had blown (it hadn't); I tried turning the ignition key to start with that fuse removed and of course nothing happened - however when I replaced the fuse and tried again the engine started. I let it run for a few minutes, then turned it off and tried starting again. First attempt = just a click. Second attempt = engine starts. Several subsequent attempts = just clicks. To my way of thinking all of this seems to suggest that either the starter motor, the starter solenoid (or possibly the starter relay) is a bit dodgy. Does this sound right?

Has anybody tried a DIY removal of the starter motor? Is it relatively easy? I'm guessing that it has to be done from underneath?

Sorry for giving you duff info before. Didnt realise yours was an earlier year.
The same method of testing applies to your model, just a different relay. (See attached drawing of what may be your front fuse Box)
Just unplug the Starter Relay and apply a short across the socket where the realy conatcts are (See drawing on relay for pins).

I am just a keen (70 Year Old) diy man and had starting problems on my 300C from new (Very intermittent). Dealers never sorted it in 3 Years while it was under warranty. I changed the starter myself after doing the checks I describe to you (As you say from underneath) Not too bad a job only two bolts on starter motor.
I will be very surprisede if its not the starter motor, assuming the battery is OK.
Obviously bad connections could cause problems (Thats why I mentioned the additional "lead through connection" which could easily be missed if looking for a bad connection.

Jack

 

[steelblue300c]

The relay will only make a quiet click. If its a loud click, replace the starter solenoid. Remove battery leads first. Mine has not failed to start first go since being replaced.
job done

 

[george123]

Jackwalton, completely agree with you

 

[Dreamcatcher300]

Did you try cleaning the ignition terminal (exciter wire) at the starter motor end? I had to uclip mine and give it a bit of sand paper and silicone spray...i actually put the spray bottle straw, into the wire connector and gave it a few blasts. Worked for me.

If still bad then try a voltage drop test on that same wire and if it still fails then you've probably diagnosed a bad starter.

Your ignition sounds like its working fine.

Jack Walton is an electrical wizard so I'd try everything he suggests apart from cliff jumping and hand in fire type stuff ?

Sounds like your getting good continuity in your fuse box. I did note you mentioned you pulled a fuse and it started only to fail again a bit later.

When the terminals are dirty they can have days they start and days they don't.

 

[keionljohnson]

Have an button start 2012 chy 300 when I put the key fob by the ignition it still does not start or do it open when I put my hand on handle any suggestions