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ok this is my plan... keep the oem nav, with my BA stereo and just add 2 12's and an amp for them, nothing else... now here is my question.. how do i wire it.. i see refernce to a clean sweep thing, a thing called a PAQ, and something else called linedriver or something... wtf do i use? i am so confused.. i want this as professionally done looking and sounding as possible... ahhh my brain is overheating trying to figure this out.. please help
 

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I just upgraded my system, keeping the OEM NAV/UConnect in place.

Although I have a thread on this, I'll repeat: I used the JL Audio CleanSweep/Summing Unit combo added after the BA6 amp and both mounted under the spare tire in the back. From there I added a JL Audio 500/5 amp and Monster-farad digicap attached to the rear of the rear seats. I replaced all speakers - JL components in the front (tweeters in the dash and woofers in the door) and 6x9's in the rear. I already had the kicker stealth sub, but I decided for when not needing the trunk space, I have a 12" JL sub in enclosed box in the trunk which I can disconnect and then use the kicker when trunk space is needed. I also dynamatted the trunk.

Overall - awesome sound. The CleanSweep was tuned to CD's, so when Siruis is on I jack up the OEM volume by two (contrary to others you can change the colume at the head unit with the CleanSweep). I had Tweeter (professional0 do the job as although in the past I've done some installing, not my cup of tea anymore.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
well see thats the problem where i didnt get the answer i was looking for.. i dont wanna change out my factory amp and ba speakers, just add 1 amp for the subs.
 

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greggk what's up? I've done this to my car, I kept everything stock except the rear 6 X 9's. Okay this is very very easy. What I did is buy a RCA line inverter/ converter....whatever from Best Buy for 20 bucks, this will allow you to connect your amps audio cables. Then in the trunk I spliced the rear 6 X 9's wires, both of them and connected the line inverter which is real simple. Once you do that all you have to do is mount the rest of your hardware. The battery is in the trunk so you don't have to run your power cable through the cabin and I mounted my amp's ground wire to the bolt under the rear seat of the seatbelt. I'll have to go look what fuse you can use for the remote wire for you but I'll give you a link where I helped someone else out on here. As far as the RE-Q goes my buddy has one on his Acura and to be honest my subs are louder and he has a better pair of subs then me. My amp is better but I wouldn't pay 4 or 5 times more for a RE-Q over the simple line inverter, IMO.
 

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greggk what's up? I've done this to my car, I kept everything stock except the rear 6 X 9's. Okay this is very very easy. What I did is buy a RCA line inverter/ converter....whatever from Best Buy for 20 bucks, this will allow you to connect your amps audio cables. Then in the trunk I spliced the rear 6 X 9's wires, both of them and connected the line inverter which is real simple. Once you do that all you have to do is mount the rest of your hardware. The battery is in the trunk so you don't have to run your power cable through the cabin and I mounted my amp's ground wire to the bolt under the rear seat of the seatbelt. I'll have to go look what fuse you can use for the remote wire for you but I'll give you a link where I helped someone else out on here. As far as the RE-Q goes my buddy has one on his Acura and to be honest my subs are louder and he has a better pair of subs then me. My amp is better but I wouldn't pay 4 or 5 times more for a RE-Q over the simple line inverter, IMO.
Everything said here is spot on! Look to use fuse 35 in the trunk fuse
panel for the remote turn on.

you can actually find factory grounds in the trunk. One is actually where the battery
is grounded. There is a second on the other side of the battery. If you pull the trunk floor up (not hard to do), you'll easily see where to ground. I didn't use the factory ground location, but I followed the stock bundle and used wire ties to so that my power connections follow the stock wiring.
 
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