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Oil everywhere and dreaded swirl motor

14K views 50 replies 9 participants last post by  Kaiser Bill 
#1 ·
Well my car is now officailly out of warranty (thought it was Oct but realised it ran out yesterday). Good news is MOT went fine today with no problems - however when disconnecting my SPIDER before the emissions test I noticed oil everywhere near what I think is the air inlet above the swirl motor. THere is also all oil under the engine cover (thin sprayed fluffy later). My question is whan I had a new swirl motor in Nov last year (so should still be under warranty) I thought they fitted an updated pipe to stop this happeneing. I have a picture below which I think shows where it's leaking can someone confirm this is the only place that leaks. Need to either silicone seal it (is it just the red ring bit?) or take it in and push for a new pipe and a promise if the motor goes again (its covered in oil) they will foot the bill. Can I manually fix this with silicone - and is the yellow arrow where I would do it ? (red arrow shows where oil build up is.)

Thanks all !

 
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#2 ·
I read showhere that all repairs carried a 2 year warranty, but not to sure if the original work was within the warranty, as to the leak i am not to sure i would use silicone to seal it, as the access that would got on the inside of the pipe could break free and go into the spinning turbo, maybe replace the seal? as the the orignal turbo intake pipe, is the seal red or black ( the large seal with a jubilee clip) the old pipe had lugs at 12 , 3 ,6, and 9 oclock position and the new 2 4 8 and 10
 
#4 ·
that small pipe isnt the one they replace....its the large one coming from the airbox that they change. Havent you got a catch can inserted into that smaller pipe yet?

clean that stuff up quick....try putting a panty pad under it to absorb leaks until you get a catch can!
 
#5 · (Edited)
Does the catch can just go in the middle of the small pipe ? -
Where do I buy one ?
Will a panty pad not set on fire in the engine bay ? - is that safe if so one going in tomorrow.
Also do I just wipe all the oil off after removing the intake pipe or is there more to it than that.

Well annoyed as I assumed they stopped this ... after the last time.
 
#31 ·
the top of the swirl chamber is plasic....I suggested the drip tray/panty pad be mounted there. It was a serious suggestion...Harley riders not uncommonly mount them in the air filter housing for similar reasons (except in their case the oil drips coat their right leg / engine / exhaust pipe....in my case I'm convinced my bike nearly caught fire on the M40). Their filter housing is immediately mounted next to the air cooled cylinders....and I'm guessing that runs at a similar temperature. In your case youre mounting onto plastic, without a metal engine part immediately below, so it should be cooler.
If you dont fancy absorbing the drips, get some heavy foil (disposable turkey roasing tin) & make yourself a drip tray to sit there, & mop up the drips caught occasionally when the engine is cold. Either method will give you an indication of the effectiveness of your catch can

in any event, whether you try it or not, You can clean the ara under the pipe by feeding a knotted clean cloth under the intake & gently pulling it back & forth, ensuring the knots wipe the top of the swirl chamber
 
#32 ·
Hi All

I have a 209 model CRD/SRT amd I am going to check if I have the new type pipe, if not will phone Chrysler and point out this potential problem and ask that pipe is replaced with new one. Under the terms of their warranty surley they are duty bound to replace such a faulty item and if problem is as widespread as I suspect then surley they should be doing a recall.
 
#33 ·
Hi All

I have a 209 model CRD/SRT amd I am going to check if I have the new type pipe, if not will phone Chrysler and point out this potential problem and ask that pipe is replaced with new one. Under the terms of their warranty surley they are duty bound to replace such a faulty item and if problem is as widespread as I suspect then surley they should be doing a recall.
I feel like a witness to an old time western.....

good luck!
 
#37 ·
I had the new intake pipe fitted by straightforwardly telling my dealer that I heard there were problems with swirl-port motors and asking if there was preventative work that could be done.
They described the replacement intake pipe and checked under the bonnet. They found traces of oil on the underside of the intake pipe and therefore fitted the new type replacement under warranty.

This was at 1 year old, after 30k miles. If your car is brand new, Armchair, perhaps there is less chance of oil being apparent. Maybe they won't swap under warranty unless there is evidence of the leak.
 
#41 ·
yup, the instructions for the racor suggest plumbing the oil output to someplace on the engine near the oil pan, if your vehicle has such a fitting, the racor includes a one-way check valve so that if you use the plumbing to the oil pan the oil can only go into the pan and not back up to the racor.
 
#44 · (Edited)
ok I have had mine off (still off atm) and there was oil everywhere. I have also undone the nut holding the black "curved" plastic bit (under the pipe) and run a rag beteem that (which I assume just holds wires from the looks of it) and what I hope is the casing for the swirl motor. It was drenched with oil btw :(. After examining the pipe and the leak it's not the seal meeting the turbo where it leaks. As the pipe has a cutout ay the 6 o clock position (i.e. the bottom) thats where the oil drips out. I can only assume the modified pipe does not have the bottom "lug". Silly place to putit by Chrysler !.

I am currently attempting to modify my pipe to remove the bottom lug (seal it) and see how it goes - will also put a panty pad under it for now to see if what I do makes any difference.

Have I covered all the cleaning bits (i.e. under the plastic curved bit etc).

I have put it all back together and put a half cut thick panty pad under the turbo pipe (on the curvy plastic) to see what happens. Hopefully it doesn't go up in flames !
 
#46 ·
We think alike ! - I have sealed the "hole + crack" at the bottom with glue from a hot glue gun then filed it all down so the hose clip goes back over. The glue is flexible and on the outside of the pipe keeping the risk of it getting in the turbo low (as its only on the outside of the pipe). Lets see if it does the trick as mine was not leaking where the seal meets the turbo but out of that hole.
 
#49 ·
I can envisage liquid moving front to back, in the air flow, but not back to front. Surely that must have come from in front of the radiator, I'm thinking (maybe not) - ....theres an oil cooler there.....you may have a weep. The only access is to take the front off to look - daunting but in reality dead easy - I posted a quick guide a week or two ago, its a 10 minute job to get it off
If it IS from the fan side after all, which is right at the front, check your diesel pipe unions
put down an old blanket / duvet cover to roll the bumper onto when it comes free
unclip the 2 covers in front of the bonnet latch (just pull them off) - theres 4 plastic studs underneath - prise them out gently.
undo your wheel arch studs as you have done before, up to the top of the arch.
theres a few 7mm hex self tappers which join the bumper to the bellypan (if you have one) - remove them
go into the wheel arches...there 1 bolt each side mounted vertically about 3" in, at the top, (about 1-2 o'clock). Undo

now the whole bumper slides off forwards - its mounted on slides/ledges where the vertical bolts are.

It took me 30 mins each side to do the sidemarkers from the wheel arches. It takes 10 to remove the bumper, maybe less with practice....and you get free acccess to both sides, both fogs, the grille, the horns - you name it, no pain/struggling..........lovely!

heres a thread with photos....ignore the middle stages relating to removing the grille

http://www.300cforums.com/forums/ex...-grill-installation-fascia-removal-101-a.html

I'll post the pics which interest us...












 
#51 ·
if there is a leak there, it'll probably be a loose clip like the diesel unions (yes, you guessed right)

if theres nothing untoward in front of the radiator.....well, at least you learned to break the bumper phobia. I cant think of where else oil on the fan would come from
 
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