Chrysler 300C & SRT8 Forums banner

1 - 18 of 18 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hi, I'm a newbi from Philly, I have a 2006, 5.7L Hemi 300C with 94k miles. I've been experiencing an oil burning smell and can see smoke 2-3 minutes after cold starts rising from the exhaust manifold just below the valve cover gasket on the passenger side back closer to the fire wall. Not sure if this is a valve cover gasket leak. I never see any oil on the floor and nothing collects on the plastic shield under the engine. Everything looks dry. I've pulled the spark plug coils to inspect valve cover gasket leaks in each plug tubes and all is clean. Could this be tranny fluid or something else leaking onto the exhaust?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
651 Posts
Check your PCV valve. They tend to fill up with crud and need to be changed.
Did anyone find out the correct way to install one? U may remember from my other post that I'm also replacing my PCV valve. Searching on the forums it seems no one knows which way it should go in. Thoughts?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
6,058 Posts
Only one way it fits... twist it counter clockwise as you gently pull up and it will pop out. When reinstalling it is a quarter turn clockwise and it goes in to a stopper that won't allow it to turn more. Job done...
 
  • Like
Reactions: bama1

·
Registered
Joined
·
651 Posts
Yes but those arrows that are up n down on the top can be facing either way. I reinstalled this one after taking it out to check it n put it back in the other way of how it was in there. It fits both ways. Does it matter which?
Thanks guys.
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Discussion Starter #6 (Edited)
Thanks, I Changed the PCV valve 8 months ago ~6k miles ago. I just pulled to check and looks and shakes like new. The housing that the PCV is attached to is dry and free of any oil leaks. Also, I check the hose connecting to the PCV valve housing and all is clean and dry no leaks. Are there any sensors that possibly attach between the exhaust manifold and bottom of the valve cover that could be leaking oil or tranny fluid on the exhaust on the passenger side?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
6,058 Posts
Yes but those arrows that are up n down on the top can be facing either way. I reinstalled this one after taking it out to check it n put it back in the other way of how it was in there. It fits both ways. Does it matter which?
Thanks guys.
Doesn't matter which way it goes in pal...
 
  • Like
Reactions: bama1

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
6,058 Posts
Thanks, I Changed the PCV valve 8 months ago ~6k miles ago. I just pulled to check and looks and shakes like new. The housing that the PCV is attached to is dry and free of any oil leaks. Also, I check the hose connecting to the PCV valve housing and all is clean and dry no leaks. Are there any sensors that possibly attach between the exhaust manifold and bottom of the valve cover that could be leaking oil or tranny fluid on the exhaust on the passenger side?
No lines or hoses on the passenger side pal in the place your thinking... sure the valve cover itself isn't loose or possibly got a bad seal?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Thanks silver06hemic! That's what I'm starting to conclude. Any idea of the torque required on the valve covers as i don't what to over tighten when I check?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
6,058 Posts
Off the top of my head I think it's 65in lbs.... let me check bud.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
6,058 Posts
Here you go.... from the Service Manual.... I was close! lol



COVER(S)-CYLINDER HEAD
REMOVAL
1. Disconnect battery negative cable.
2. Disconnect coil on plug connectors.
CAUTION: The ground straps must be installed in the same location as removed. The covers are machined
to accept the ground straps in those locations only.
3. Remove cylinder head cover retaining bolts, and ground straps.
4. Remove cylinder head cover.
LX ENGINE - 5.7L SERVICE INFORMATION 9 - 1539
Note: The gasket may be used again, provided no cuts, tears, or deformation has occurred.

INSTALLATION
CAUTION: Do not use harsh cleaners to clean the cylinder head covers. Severe damage to covers may
occur.
CAUTION: DO NOT allow other components including the wire harness to rest on or against the engine
cylinder head cover. Prolonged contact with other objects may wear a hole in the cylinder head cover.
1. Clean cylinder head cover and both sealing surfaces. Inspect and replace gasket as necessary.
2. Install cylinder head cover and hand start all fasteners. Verify that all double ended studs are in the correct
location and install left and right ground straps.
CAUTION: The ground straps must be installed in the same location as removed. The covers are machined
to accept the ground straps in those locations only.
Note: The right hand ground strap is located on the front inboard stud. The left hand ground strap is
located on the rear inboard stud.
3. Tighten cylinder head cover bolts and double ended studs to 8 N·m (70 in. lbs). Begin torque sequence in the
middle of head cover and torque bolts moving outward in a crisscross pattern from top to bottom.
4. Install ignition coil on plug, and torque fasteners to 12 N·m (105 in. lbs)
5. Connect, ignition coil electrical connectors.
6. Install PCV hose.
7. Connect battery negative cable.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Discussion Starter #13
Thanks again silver06hemic! I just found in my Haynes manual they show 70in-lbs. I'll give it a check tomorrow and follow-up
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
@ silver06hemic, the top valve cover studs were easy to reach as wire harness with clips easily removes. The top row of studs were all about 1/8 to 1/4 turn loose. Bottom front stud was ok. Back/bottom 3 studs not easily reached. Any tricks to move cable harness without disconnecting from alternator? Does not appear to be enough slack in cable. A closer inspection to the valve cover on back bottom corner appears have some oil. I'd like to check the torque on the bottom studs. Any hints would be helpful, or is alternator cable removal only option?
 

Attachments

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
6,058 Posts
The wires use pushnuts that push onto the valve cover studs pal, pull them up and the cable should have enough wiggle room to tuck the wire just under the studs so you can get tip them with a swivel.... it's tight but should work.

Sounds to me like that's your leak pal!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
9 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
thanks again silver06hemic! I'll give it another try maybe with a couple of hook tolls to get a better grasp of the cable to pull it off the studs.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
6,058 Posts
Try and get your fingers either side of the pushnut if possible and pull up gently on the whole wire loom.. if you grab the nut with pliers etc then it almost grabs on harder! They can be a bit of a pain first time around...
 
1 - 18 of 18 Posts
Top