Chrysler 300C & SRT8 Forums banner

Oil or fluid burning on exhaust manifold

13K views 17 replies 4 participants last post by  bama1 
#1 ·
Hi, I'm a newbi from Philly, I have a 2006, 5.7L Hemi 300C with 94k miles. I've been experiencing an oil burning smell and can see smoke 2-3 minutes after cold starts rising from the exhaust manifold just below the valve cover gasket on the passenger side back closer to the fire wall. Not sure if this is a valve cover gasket leak. I never see any oil on the floor and nothing collects on the plastic shield under the engine. Everything looks dry. I've pulled the spark plug coils to inspect valve cover gasket leaks in each plug tubes and all is clean. Could this be tranny fluid or something else leaking onto the exhaust?
 
#4 ·
Only one way it fits... twist it counter clockwise as you gently pull up and it will pop out. When reinstalling it is a quarter turn clockwise and it goes in to a stopper that won't allow it to turn more. Job done...
 
  • Like
Reactions: bama1
#7 ·
Doesn't matter which way it goes in pal...
 
  • Like
Reactions: bama1
#6 · (Edited)
Thanks, I Changed the PCV valve 8 months ago ~6k miles ago. I just pulled to check and looks and shakes like new. The housing that the PCV is attached to is dry and free of any oil leaks. Also, I check the hose connecting to the PCV valve housing and all is clean and dry no leaks. Are there any sensors that possibly attach between the exhaust manifold and bottom of the valve cover that could be leaking oil or tranny fluid on the exhaust on the passenger side?
 
#8 ·
No lines or hoses on the passenger side pal in the place your thinking... sure the valve cover itself isn't loose or possibly got a bad seal?
 
#10 ·
Off the top of my head I think it's 65in lbs.... let me check bud.
 
#11 ·
Here you go.... from the Service Manual.... I was close! lol



COVER(S)-CYLINDER HEAD
REMOVAL
1. Disconnect battery negative cable.
2. Disconnect coil on plug connectors.
CAUTION: The ground straps must be installed in the same location as removed. The covers are machined
to accept the ground straps in those locations only.
3. Remove cylinder head cover retaining bolts, and ground straps.
4. Remove cylinder head cover.
LX ENGINE - 5.7L SERVICE INFORMATION 9 - 1539
Note: The gasket may be used again, provided no cuts, tears, or deformation has occurred.

INSTALLATION
CAUTION: Do not use harsh cleaners to clean the cylinder head covers. Severe damage to covers may
occur.
CAUTION: DO NOT allow other components including the wire harness to rest on or against the engine
cylinder head cover. Prolonged contact with other objects may wear a hole in the cylinder head cover.
1. Clean cylinder head cover and both sealing surfaces. Inspect and replace gasket as necessary.
2. Install cylinder head cover and hand start all fasteners. Verify that all double ended studs are in the correct
location and install left and right ground straps.
CAUTION: The ground straps must be installed in the same location as removed. The covers are machined
to accept the ground straps in those locations only.
Note: The right hand ground strap is located on the front inboard stud. The left hand ground strap is
located on the rear inboard stud.
3. Tighten cylinder head cover bolts and double ended studs to 8 N·m (70 in. lbs). Begin torque sequence in the
middle of head cover and torque bolts moving outward in a crisscross pattern from top to bottom.
4. Install ignition coil on plug, and torque fasteners to 12 N·m (105 in. lbs)
5. Connect, ignition coil electrical connectors.
6. Install PCV hose.
7. Connect battery negative cable.
 
#14 ·
@ silver06hemic, the top valve cover studs were easy to reach as wire harness with clips easily removes. The top row of studs were all about 1/8 to 1/4 turn loose. Bottom front stud was ok. Back/bottom 3 studs not easily reached. Any tricks to move cable harness without disconnecting from alternator? Does not appear to be enough slack in cable. A closer inspection to the valve cover on back bottom corner appears have some oil. I'd like to check the torque on the bottom studs. Any hints would be helpful, or is alternator cable removal only option?
 

Attachments

#15 ·
The wires use pushnuts that push onto the valve cover studs pal, pull them up and the cable should have enough wiggle room to tuck the wire just under the studs so you can get tip them with a swivel.... it's tight but should work.

Sounds to me like that's your leak pal!
 
#17 ·
Try and get your fingers either side of the pushnut if possible and pull up gently on the whole wire loom.. if you grab the nut with pliers etc then it almost grabs on harder! They can be a bit of a pain first time around...
 
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top