Chrysler 300C & SRT8 Forums banner
1 - 18 of 18 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
648 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
So twice now i have driven a little over 2 hours and my car has shut off on me within about 30 seconds of stopping. both times it shut off i had done a little beating on the car nothing super crazy just a few quick accelerations to get on and off of on ramps and cruising at about 80. when the car shut off my electronics still work and i the red oil light came on. (the left side of the speedometer) the car wasnt running hot ive checked the oil level its still good, i just changed the oil on the 8th of june. i used mobil 1 5w2O and a mobil 1 filter. The pictures are from when i got home the 24 is when i had it in park and the 39 is when i had it in drive with no foot on the pedal. when i drove it would go up to about 49 but as soon as i took my foot of the pedal it would start to drop back down to about 46. i checked today the oil pressure readings were still low and varying like yesterday under normal driving and still no leaks or anything.can somebody please tell me what it could be?

PS. when i mash down the pedal my car will accelerate to 80 then my RPM's will dropway down and shoot back up like i removed my foot from the pedal. it does it at 80,100, and the one or two times ive hit 120 not sure if it could be relaited to oil, i was told electrical but i watched my voltage level when it does it and they dont fluctuate

11535907_10206270563036894_5973992487340690541_n.jpg

11242341_10206270563156897_1868682710794898709_n.jpg
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
648 Posts
Discussion Starter · #2 ·
Bump for silver lol.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,515 Posts
Varying oil pressure is completely normal as long as it's not very high or very low, as the revs raise the oil pump spins up more and increases pressure, same when you remove your foot from the pedal. Also hot oil thins so the pressure will read lower when hot and higher when cold, perfectly normal.

Now... as for the numbers you are seeing and the shutting off. Oil light will come on when the car stalls out as usually the car idles lower than it's normal parameters and thus the oil pressure drops below it's threshold and as the car stalls the light comes on... however... if the light is on at an idle, that is indicative of a problem. Also the stalling in itself is a problem, however the car won't stall due to low oil pressure, it might seize, but not stall.

My thoughts are if you are concerned about oil pressure then I would take it in and have a manual gauge put on and test it that way, if it's really low then your oil pump may be on the fritz and in which case don't drive it till it is done and if you have to... don't beat on it. If the oil pressure is good on the manual gauge but low on the electronic one then change your pressure sensor at the block as it's probably giving a duff reading. If both pressures are good and the same then just figure out what's causing the stall....

For that I'd start with cleaning the throttle body...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
648 Posts
Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I just cleaned the Throttle body when I cleaned changed the oil and emptied out my catch can. It's stalled out before and after oil change/throttle body cleaned. Both times are after I added my new hood so I wonder if it getting all that cooler air and then me stopping and it just sucking up the hot air under the engine bay is causing the car to stall for some reason..... I thought my oil pressure was always around 46 when in Park would the heat really cause that much of a fluctuation
 

·
Chrysler Customer Service Agent
Joined
·
935 Posts
So twice now i have driven a little over 2 hours and my car has shut off on me within about 30 seconds of stopping. both times it shut off i had done a little beating on the car nothing super crazy just a few quick accelerations to get on and off of on ramps and cruising at about 80. when the car shut off my electronics still work and i the red oil light came on. (the left side of the speedometer) the car wasnt running hot ive checked the oil level its still good, i just changed the oil on the 8th of june. i used mobil 1 5w2O and a mobil 1 filter. The pictures are from when i got home the 24 is when i had it in park and the 39 is when i had it in drive with no foot on the pedal. when i drove it would go up to about 49 but as soon as i took my foot of the pedal it would start to drop back down to about 46. i checked today the oil pressure readings were still low and varying like yesterday under normal driving and still no leaks or anything.can somebody please tell me what it could be?

PS. when i mash down the pedal my car will accelerate to 80 then my RPM's will dropway down and shoot back up like i removed my foot from the pedal. it does it at 80,100, and the one or two times ive hit 120 not sure if it could be relaited to oil, i was told electrical but i watched my voltage level when it does it and they dont fluctuate

View attachment 113569

View attachment 113577
Hi Sim-Simma,
I found a Technical Service Bulletin that was released in May of 2013 that addresses vehicle performance after start-up when accelerating at wide open throttle. It’s possible that this could apply to your vehicle’s concern. I’ve included more information below. Let me know if you would like assistance with scheduling an appointment at your local FCA dealership to see if this TSB could possibly resolve your concerns.

TSB NUMBER: 18-021-13
GROUP: Vehicle Performance
DATE: May 15, 2013

SUBJECT: Flash: Performance Derate Above 55 MPH Immediately After Start-Up When Accelerating At Wide Open Throttle

OVERVIEW: This bulletin involves selectively erasing and reprogramming the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) with new software.

MODELS:
2007 - 2010 (LX) 300/Magnum/Charger
2009 - 2010 (LE) 300 (International)
2009 - 2010 (LC) Challenger

NOTE: This bulletin applies to 2007-2010 vehicles equipped with a 3.5L engine (sales code EGG), 2007-2010 vehicles equipped with a 2.7L engine (sales code EER) and 2008 and 2010 vehicles equipped with a 5.7L engine (sales code EZB).

SYMPTOM/CONDITION: A small number of customers may experience any of the following conditions:
• Performance derate above 55 MPH when accelerating at wide open throttle immediately following engine start-up.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,515 Posts
I just cleaned the Throttle body when I cleaned changed the oil and emptied out my catch can. It's stalled out before and after oil change/throttle body cleaned. Both times are after I added my new hood so I wonder if it getting all that cooler air and then me stopping and it just sucking up the hot air under the engine bay is causing the car to stall for some reason..... I thought my oil pressure was always around 46 when in Park would the heat really cause that much of a fluctuation
Unless you've left something unplugged then nope it won't have anything to do with the new hood and the hot/cold air thing you mentioned. There are a pile of reasons for the stall, we can deal with that as we go.... first off focus on the oil pressure and ensure you are ok.

You will absolutely see a variation in cold pressure vs a fully warmed up oil sump pressure. As I mentioned hot oil is 'thinner' for lack of a better word and fluctuates a little more than cold oil, there will be a slight drop in pressure when the car is hot... also when put in gear etc as the engine rev's drop down a bit and the pump spins slower.

I'd check the oil pressure first off to rule out any issues that way...

As for the stall... any codes in the car bud? You say you cleaned the throttle body... how? Did you remove it or leave it in place? What cleaner did you use?

Any lack of power under WOT?


Hi Sim-Simma,
I found a Technical Service Bulletin that was released in May of 2013 that addresses vehicle performance after start-up when accelerating at wide open throttle. It’s possible that this could apply to your vehicle’s concern. I’ve included more information below. Let me know if you would like assistance with scheduling an appointment at your local FCA dealership to see if this TSB could possibly resolve your concerns.

TSB NUMBER: 18-021-13
GROUP: Vehicle Performance
DATE: May 15, 2013

SUBJECT: Flash: Performance Derate Above 55 MPH Immediately After Start-Up When Accelerating At Wide Open Throttle

OVERVIEW: This bulletin involves selectively erasing and reprogramming the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) with new software.

MODELS:
2007 - 2010 (LX) 300/Magnum/Charger
2009 - 2010 (LE) 300 (International)
2009 - 2010 (LC) Challenger

NOTE: This bulletin applies to 2007-2010 vehicles equipped with a 3.5L engine (sales code EGG), 2007-2010 vehicles equipped with a 2.7L engine (sales code EER) and 2008 and 2010 vehicles equipped with a 5.7L engine (sales code EZB).

SYMPTOM/CONDITION: A small number of customers may experience any of the following conditions:
• Performance derate above 55 MPH when accelerating at wide open throttle immediately following engine start-up.
Awesome you are here helping! However in this instance I really don't think it's that... his problem is more related to a stall after deceleration not an issue with acceleration. Also not sure his car is under that TSB as a 2007 300c V8, I believe it's just for 08-10 which would be the Eagle VVT motor... different animal.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
648 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Unless you've left something unplugged then nope it won't have anything to do with the new hood and the hot/cold air thing you mentioned. There are a pile of reasons for the stall, we can deal with that as we go.... first off focus on the oil pressure and ensure you are ok.

You will absolutely see a variation in cold pressure vs a fully warmed up oil sump pressure. As I mentioned hot oil is 'thinner' for lack of a better word and fluctuates a little more than cold oil, there will be a slight drop in pressure when the car is hot... also when put in gear etc as the engine rev's drop down a bit and the pump spins slower.

I'd check the oil pressure first off to rule out any issues that way...

As for the stall... any codes in the car bud? You say you cleaned the throttle body... how? Did you remove it or leave it in place? What cleaner did you use?

Any lack of power under WOT?




I wouldn't say lack of power other than at 80, 100, 120 my RMP's drop down significantly to like 2k and I know my cars not still shifting gear that high and it wouldn't bog the car down like it does if it was shifting gear. I took the Throttle body off an cleaned it with Berryman B-12 carburetor & throttle body cleaner. I sprayed it on let it sit for a good 20 seconds and wiped it with a microfiber cloth. I didn't add enough pressure to move the plate and mess with the calibration of it. I did however pour seafoam into the crank about 100 miles before changing the oil. I had an old 1/4 used quart of oil I poured into the crank while it was still open to make sure I flushed out all of the seafoam as it was may first time ever doing it and I was nervous about some still being left in the oil. I closed everything up and poured the new oil in and it was sitting lower than I remembered it on the usual first start up after an oil change. Once I notice things like that I tend to pay attention to them atleast once a day. I did change back to Mobil 1 from AMSOIL. My car didn't like it. Picture of where I poured the seafoam.
 

Attachments

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,515 Posts
You want to make sure your TB cleaner is always Non-Chlorinated, I believe the Berryman stuff is... if not it can chew things up inside your TB. Sounds like you are good there though. You had a good seal between the intake manifold and the throttle body?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
648 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
So spraying that berrymans stuff inside the head is a bad idea? I didn't spray it like deep inside just the edge and used a microfiber towel to clean off the little metal piece that enters the header just behind the TB. I didn't go any further than that. I can go check but I tightened all of the bolts down a little at a time until each was seated all the way. I figured it was best to do it that way than screw each one all the way in before moving to the next one
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,515 Posts
So spraying that berrymans stuff inside the head is a bad idea? I didn't spray it like deep inside just the edge and used a microfiber towel to clean off the little metal piece that enters the header just behind the TB. I didn't go any further than that. I can go check but I tightened all of the bolts down a little at a time until each was seated all the way. I figured it was best to do it that way than screw each one all the way in before moving to the next one
IMO spraying anything inside the head is a bad idea... but I think you mean intake manifold correct? In which case you will be fine... but in future honestly just give it a wipe out when cleaning the throttle body. Don't over tighten the bolts on the throttle body and strip them, but make sure they are snug. There is a little rubber seal between the two, sometimes they can get damaged or fall out without noticing, this will cause issues as you have air bypassing the TB.

How is your EGR valve? Clean? Removed? Any codes?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
648 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I don't know how to clean the EGR lol. Can you send me a picture of what the EGR looks like because if it's what I think it is (back of the engine bay passenger side) I don't see a way of cleaning that. I did the key dance and no codes showed up
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
648 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Would my EGR being dirty make the back side of my TB keep getting dirty?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,515 Posts
I don't know how to clean the EGR lol. Can you send me a picture of what the EGR looks like because if it's what I think it is (back of the engine bay passenger side) I don't see a way of cleaning that. I did the key dance and no codes showed up
Would my EGR being dirty make the back side of my TB keep getting dirty?
EGR Valve is passenger side up front down in front of your dipstick. It has to come off to be cleaned. Most people say replace however if it's not throwing a code it might not need replacement... however it can still be dirty enough to cause a stall. Pull it and brake clean the hell out of it with non chlorinated brake clean, let it dry and reinstall.

PULL IT INFO....

5.7L
The electronic EGR valve and solenoid assembly (3)
is attached to the front of the right cylinder head (1).
An exhaust gas routing tube connects the EGR valve
to the intake manifold.
LX EXHAUST GAS RECIRCULATION 25 - 51
1. Disconnect electrical connector (1) from EGR solenoid
(2).
2. Remove two bolts (3) connecting EGR tube (4) to
valve assembly.
3. Remove gasket located between EGR tube flange
and EGR valve assembly.
4. Remove two mounting bolts (2).
5. Separate valve assembly (3) from cylinder head
(1).
6. Remove and discard metal gasket located between
cylinder head and valve assembly.


CLEAN THE HELL OUTTA IT!

REINSTALL INFO

5.7L
1. Position a new metal gasket between cylinder head
(1) and valve assembly (3).
2. Install two mounting bolts (2) and tighten. Refer to
Torque Specifications.
3. Clean EGR tube where it joins EGR valve.
4. Position new gasket between EGR tube flange and
EGR valve assembly.
5. Install two bolts (3) connecting EGR tube (4) to
valve assembly (2). Tighten bolts. Refer to Torque
Specifications.
6. Connect electrical connector (1) to EGR solenoid
(2).

If you are gentle pulling it off then you won't need a new gasket...

Tighten the bolts to 275 in/lbs (NOT ft/lbs! lol)... ie... gentle!

Link to Youtube...

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
648 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
EGR Valve is passenger side up front down in front of your dipstick. It has to come off to be cleaned. Most people say replace however if it's not throwing a code it might not need replacement... however it can still be dirty enough to cause a stall. Pull it and brake clean the hell out of it with non chlorinated brake clean, let it dry and reinstall.

PULL IT INFO....

5.7L
The electronic EGR valve and solenoid assembly (3)
is attached to the front of the right cylinder head (1).
An exhaust gas routing tube connects the EGR valve
to the intake manifold.
LX EXHAUST GAS RECIRCULATION 25 - 51
1. Disconnect electrical connector (1) from EGR solenoid
(2).
2. Remove two bolts (3) connecting EGR tube (4) to
valve assembly.
3. Remove gasket located between EGR tube flange
and EGR valve assembly.
4. Remove two mounting bolts (2).
5. Separate valve assembly (3) from cylinder head
(1).
6. Remove and discard metal gasket located between
cylinder head and valve assembly.


CLEAN THE HELL OUTTA IT!

REINSTALL INFO

5.7L
1. Position a new metal gasket between cylinder head
(1) and valve assembly (3).
2. Install two mounting bolts (2) and tighten. Refer to
Torque Specifications.
3. Clean EGR tube where it joins EGR valve.
4. Position new gasket between EGR tube flange and
EGR valve assembly.
5. Install two bolts (3) connecting EGR tube (4) to
valve assembly (2). Tighten bolts. Refer to Torque
Specifications.
6. Connect electrical connector (1) to EGR solenoid
(2).

If you are gentle pulling it off then you won't need a new gasket...

Tighten the bolts to 275 in/lbs (NOT ft/lbs! lol)... ie... gentle!

Link to Youtube...

E.G.R. valve 2005-2007 Dodge Charger, Magnum, Chrysler 300, 5.7 Hemi. - YouTube
i have to remove the Alti to get my EGR off lol. that is like a full days work. i am wondering if i should just put my EGR block off plate on there now and do the headers sometimes this weekend but itll be atleast a month before i can have Johan tune out my EGR because i have to send my tuner into diablo to be reset. debating if i should buy a new EGR my car has 139k on it and im not sure if the EGR has ever been replaced.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,515 Posts
Where in the service manual how to I posted does it say you need to pull the alternator? You don't need to, it's above it and all of a ten min job to pull. I did the full EGR delete in like fifteen mins...

Really confused by why your car is any different bud...
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
648 Posts
Discussion Starter · #16 ·
What kinda tools did you use? I probably just don't have the right tools. I have a deep well 10mm in 1/8th drive and reaches but isn't strong enough it busted when I tried to lose it. And my 3/8th drive I don't have a deep well 10mm and the extension I have for it is to long.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
4,515 Posts
Go get some PB Blaster and soak the bolts first a couple of times... then go buy 10mm in a 3/8" or 1/2" drive that fits and break it loose.

Why is your Diablo locked?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
648 Posts
Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Go get some PB Blaster and soak the bolts first a couple of times... then go buy 10mm in a 3/8" or 1/2" drive that fits and break it loose.

Why is your Diablo locked?
My Diablo did an internal update and says something along the lines of "your diablosport sport did an internal update please reset so it can finish the update" when I unplug it it goes back to the same screen. It does it when it's hooked up to my car and my laptop.
 
1 - 18 of 18 Posts
Top