other manuals i have had for other various vehicles specify a few types of oil that can be used depending on climate, etc, but this manual seems to insist on ONLY 5w20, and specifies to ONLY use full synthetic.This was posted awhile ago. I think the consensus that proper maintenance and keeping the rpm's at or near 1500 is the most helpful to eleviate issues with the cam/lifters.
I personally swithed to full synthetic 5w-30 oil with a very efficient filter without any issues with MDS. This weight was specified from 2004. Hope it helps.
So,if it's more important to me that my engine last "forever", you're suggesting that 5w30 is better in the long run for WEAR, versus 5w20 being better for MPG (but NOT for wear)?My manuel was very specific about the wrong weigh oil affecting the MDS system. In my car the thicker oil didn't affect the system or throw any codes. Being initially, 5w-30 was acceptable in the early years (although not preferred by Chrysler), I tend to think the 5w-20 oil was for corporate average fuel economy.
Again regular maintenance no matter what oil grade is more important in keeping these hemi's happy!
i'm very interested. Do you have a link to that video?That video is complete BS, Uncle Tony has no F'n idea what he's talking about. If you're curious there's some videos from a youtuber called Darth Hemi debunking Tony.
I personally believe that 5w-30 is a prferred oil for my car. The tenths of mpg lost is not an issue for me. If it was I'd by another car or a V-6 version. Forever is an awful ling time, but I think the engine will be fine for as long as I own it. Again the key is maintenance, maintenance, and maintenance.....So,if it's more important to me that my engine last "forever", you're suggesting that 5w30 is better in the long run for WEAR, versus 5w20 being better for MPG (but NOT for wear)?
I already linked probably the most important video, there's three others, here's another.i'm very interested. Do you have a link to that video?
You have the answer right there, it's mostly a maintenance issue. Too long between oil changes, cheap oil/filters, not checking oil between changes, etc.So, if tony is wrong, what DOES explain the wear he is talking about? I mean, somewhere in there it sure feels like chrysler is wrong in their design. Why? There seem to be motors out there, which if properly maintained can easily run for 300,000+ miles and not have things like vale train be considered a replace-maintenance item. i.e. the valvetrain installed @ zero miles is the same one there at +300,000miles. No?
it's just that i only like this body style, and i found one that's perfect. I wanted one since 2005. I just like how they look, and i hope it's not a maintenance nightmare. I somehow hot lucky and got basically every single feature i wanted and then some. Super thankful!Forever is an awful ling time, but I think the engine will be fine for as long as I own it. Again the key is maintenance, maintenance, and maintenance.....
I believe I saw in another post of yours that your car is a 2008? If so you need not worry about the lifter thing. Sure it's a possibility but it's VEEEEEERY rare on a pre-eagle(2009) engine. You're much more likely to drop a seat. In 2009 Chrysler started installing a much more aggressive camshaft to go along with the VVT, this is part of the cause of the lifter issue. If you don't have a 2009 or newer engine you don't have that camshaft and won't have lifter issues.
I already linked probably the most important video, there's three others, here's another.
You have the answer right there, it's mostly a maintenance issue. Too long between oil changes, cheap oil/filters, not checking oil between changes, etc.
There's contributing factors, the more aggressive camshaft, the roller bearings needed to be larger and from 2014 on are. There also appears to have been some quality control issues from 2011-2013, too aggressive parameters on the MDS to maximize fuel, and no oil cooler combined with thin oil in a hot engine.
I defer to magnuman, he'd know more about this subject than I. I'd only add that Water Wetter is a great product worth looking into. But do the research as it relates to your coolant.Will it make any difference that the 2008 300c AWD i found has Sever Duty Cooling system I? [as far as valve seats dropping from overheating, or whyever they drop]
The 2008 300c AWD car i bought has the Sever Duty Cooling Cooling I system in it.Grab the Severe Duty Cooling system, stick a 190* thermostat in it and reset the cooling fan start temps. to, Low=197*;Medium=203*; High=208*. All three of my Hemi's are set up this way (I use Napa Auto thermostats) and I've never seen any of mine higher than 214*.I have DashHawks on all three and can monitor temps (and a bunch of other stuff) in real time.
IDK about Leno, Water Wetter is a coolant additive that greatly increases heat transfer between metal and water. I know it sounds like snake oil but it's not, the stuff is awesome. Given that a dropped seat is likely in part caused by the head being hot, an additive that would help move the heat from the aluminum sounds very worthwhile.is that the coolant jay leno uses in all his rides?