[Jerome81]

Hello all. First post, and considering the 300C as a purchase.

However, I am having difficulty finding any sort of answer on the reliability/durability front. CR does not have enough data to rate on this, and I must admit that I have some reluctance about buying a Chrysler. It is a bit of an import bias I must admit, but I also worked in Auburn Hills for some time in 2003 and heard plenty of inside issues regarding (at that time) the Jeep Liberty, particularly transmission problems.

I must say that at the time seeing those 300s inside, away from prying eyes, I was very very excited. There was this gut feeling that the car was going to be a huge hit. I just loved it. And it has come true

Anyway, I realize this is a web board and people post their issues far far more than their non-issues (I currently have a Mazda Miata and spend much time on that board-you'd think the Miata was the worst car in the world, but in the grand scheme, it is incredibly reliable), but I am wondering the most common problems on the car, their seriousness, and if it is a hit and miss problem for just a few owners or something pretty widespread.

My search did turn up some strange tranny issues, the vibration, and the pull. Anything in addition? And finally, as I plan to purchase in a few months, are these problems becoming less and less frequent as the car moves into its 2nd year of production?

I can deal with small little stuff, but dropping trannies and bad shimmys scare me. Especially that I generally keep my cars for 8 years....which is partly the reason I have driven Japanese cars for so long. They have given me a few issues but all in all, no big, expensive problems. I want to keep it that way.

Thanks for the help.

And as a side note, my other considerations are:
Cadillac CTS
Infiniti G35
BMW 3 Series
Audi A4
Mazda RX-8

I realize these cars each have their own issues, I am visiting boards trying to gather some info on them as well.

 

[300C_AWD]

I posted about my tranny shudder today and my navigation unit knob problem but I would still run out and by another 300C if this one was stolen. I love it and I expect a new car to have a few problems. Don't forget the 300C has a 7-year or 70000-mile Power train Limited Warranty. I don't think the 300C's with 2005 build dates have the pull right issue.


One thing that bugs me big time is how weak the rear bumper, cowling and wheel wells are. If you push "With your hand" about 20 pounds of pressure downward directly BELOW the "outside edge" of the left or right taillight you will see what I mean. Even 30 pounds of pressure is stressing the rivets so don't press any harder. The plastics intead of steel holding it all together just seem sub-par. I know if someone were to actually stand on the rear bumper on the left of right edge it would snap off. If you push or pull the bottom of the rear wheel well you will also see some serious flex.

Now that you know this you have some good ammo to get the dealer to drop the price . When you get your lowest bottom dollar price ask to see the car again. Then ask him if it has 5mph bumpers. Then immediately push on the corner of the Back bumper and then flex the wheel well and say OMG! That is some flimsy construction! Then renegotiate. He will be so dumbfounded he might just give you a better price if you keep pushing the issue.

 

[CJ7VFR]

I noticed the weak rear bumper/wheel well parts last night!! I was cleaning off my C for the
first time, and when I went to towl off right behind the rear wheels, I was very
surprised at how easy it was to push that lower part of fender was!!

You can grab hold of the lower plastic fender/bumper part, and pull or push it,
and you can see the wheel well black plastic parts moving too!!

I thought maybe there was more damage to my car than I had originally posted
about, but I see now that other people are seeing this flimziness too.

I wonder why there is not real support in these areas? For a $30,000 plus car,
they sure make it feel cheap.

Jim

 

[LWOOD]

The overall reliability of my car has been good over 20,000 miles and one year. I never had the right pull issue. And I believe strongly that the vibration (which is slight) at 52-58 MPH is the natural frequency of the exhaust and has NOTHING to do with the tranny.
That being said, I have picked up the odd interior rattle, my OEM wheels are developing pits and flaking (which is a widespread issue DCX is not dealing with very well) and I still have some minor annoying electrical bugaboos. None of these effect the joy or drivability of this car. As said, even with its little flaws, I would buy it over and over again.

 

[300PMP]

You might also wanna consider a TL or an Avalon.

Tranny seems fragile, especially in the cold.

Car is so bold and looks so good on 20's or 22's that its worth the little mishaps you have to go through.

Service would be a major detriment...because stuffs gonna go wrong, and the less hassle they give you, the better.

If I had the chance to do it all over again...I would possibly lean toward a used 2004 S4 (30K), but I still think my car look pretty sick. Just in the long run, is it gonna hold up to the quality of say a Toyota/Lexus brand?

 

[jcsganga34]

Its funny that this post has come up again. I guess the best way to describe it is the way someone posted about this earlier. You definitely have a LOVE/HATE relationship with this car. I have NOT had any major driveability issues with the car (ie. right pull, engine or tranny problems). Its the annoying little problems that crop up. I have had the car since last June and it has been in service for recalls/minor electrical gremlins 8 times. To me that is unacceptable, but at least my dealer is trying to work with me on this. They have not hassled me at all through any of this. I just found yesterday that my rear driver side passenger window is not working. I am constantly having problems with the air bag light. It is going in on Monday for those two issues. My Chrome rims are pitting as well. I recently have noticed that I do have the vibration, but I too believe its due to the exhaust and not the tranny. I noticed that the interior is not as tight when its cold out and is prone to slight rattles. Once the car warms up, they go away. This is probably due to the plastic contracting and expanding depending on the temperature. That said, would I buy the car again...in a heartbeat. It puts a smile on my face everytime I drive it. Now, once the 06's come out, most of this stuff may be worked out. Anyway, I am hating my 300 today, but once its out from the dealer, I'm sure I'll love her again.

-john

 

[frank29]

I also worked in Auburn Hills for some time in 2003 and heard plenty of inside issues

I think you are far from the Lone Ranger in this regard....I have heard people who work for a particular company say that they would never use the company's product or service based on their inside knowledge; but, every company has inside issues.

Like a few other posts, I have had none of the major problems and have noticed the seemingly flimsy rear quarter panel construction. Overall, this is the best car I have ever purchased. Maybe I should temper that, because this feeling is only based on 3 months and 5,500 miles.....no, I won't hold back: this car is GREAT.

 

[tekhen]

rome,

one aspect seems to be build dates. For whatever reason anything built before July 2005 have had the majority of problems you see on this forum.

Not to say that the 06s will have some issues but hopefully not the ones noted.

I got mine in sept. and my issue are the paint(a good detail will take care of it) and the Mopar remote start(next oil change will be fixed)

overall i've been happy w/the performance and handling.

The larger issue is the service/parts dept. I tend to know more than them(thanks to the knowledge base of the forum members) and the attitude that I get when I tell them what they don't know!!!

 

[kampsvilleboy]

I would have no misgiving whatsoever if it wasn't for that vibration/exhaust resonance at the most frequently travelled highway speed of 55-58 mph. It may not be a problem that is causing physical damage to the vehicle, but if Chrysler wants to tout a car with modern acceptable levels of NVH they need to address this problem NOW for customer satisfaction. If Chrysler would fix this issue I'd be a 100% happy camper with the 300C but as is that is a glaring flaw that is diametrically opposed everything this car is supposed to represent.

 

[frank29]

my issue are the paint(a good detail will take care of it) and the Mopar remote start(next oil change will be fixed)

Do you know what will be done/added to the remote start?

 

[Jerome81]

rome,

one aspect seems to be build dates. For whatever reason anything built before July 2005 have had the majority of problems you see on this forum.

I assume you meant to say July 2004, not 05?

As far as this right pull is concerned, has there been a TSB issued? Is it a problem that is easily fixed or is it one of those mysterious problems that just can't ever seem to be figured out?

And lastly, when can the 06s be expected in showrooms?

Appreciate the replies so far. It is hard not to be a bit scared about all the issues you read on car forums, and this one seems to be no exception Visit the Miata forum and you'd hear about thrust bearing, clutch shudder, and some sort of #4 valve or crankshaft issues. You'd think every Miata on earth had the problem. But for the most part, some have it, most don't, and it was repaired under warranty. It is still hard to wonder if you should give Chrysler a try.

 

[tekhen]

rome,
Thanks for catching the error. Yes '04..
You'll find problems in all cars. At some point you just have to go for it.
There is a TSB for the right pull issue but you will find the crown very sensitive. On a flat roadway my car is fine, if it has a slight angle I'm off in that direction. You must also keep an eye on the Conti's pressure!

Frank,
A forum member said that a chip needs to be replaced to allow for the automatic lights.
I'll PM Rob and see if this is true. Once I know I'll PM you.

 

[jjs]

rome,
Thanks for catching the error. Yes '04..
You'll find problems in all cars. At some point you just have to go for it.
There is a TSB for the right pull issue but you will find the crown very sensitive. On a flat roadway my car is fine, if it has a slight angle I'm off in that direction. You must also keep an eye on the Conti's pressure!

Frank,
A forum member said that a chip needs to be replaced to allow for the automatic lights.
I'll PM Rob and see if this is true. Once I know I'll PM you.

If you don't mind, how about a thread or post to an existing thread letting us all know what they did with/to your remote start??

 

[tekhen]

jjs,

no problem. I'm in the process of PMing Rob now.

 

[jjs]

jjs,

no problem. I'm in the process of PMing Rob now.

Thanks!

 

[Mr.DJ]

Jerome81,

Like some of the members have already said, either you love or hate the '300 series'. I have owned several vehicles over the many years and although some have had a few minor problems, fortunately, none were ever a major concern.

Growing-up as the son of an automotive executive, I had been taught to always never 'run out' and purchase one of the first new available models until 'the bugs have been worked out of it'...so to speak. Thus far, this advice has worked well and now the same goes for my 11/04-built '300 Touring', as it too has not developed any 'real' problems whatsoever, except for a fuel gauge which never reads full...a minor concern at best. I'll be having it checked-out by my local Chrysler dealership sometime next week.

Initially, I was impressed by the car's styling and overall visual appeal, but now after having owned is for over four months (although mileage is still low), I've also been impressed by the way the car handles, rides (comfort/convenience), and performs. I too considered several different new makes/models before my year-end purchase, but eventually settled on the '300 series'...as my eyes (and heart) always kept going back to it.

Just remember, only you can truly make your purchase decision and I'm sure that we'll all support you on whatever you decide...good luck.

 

[catchMEifUcan]

I just found yesterday that my rear driver side passenger window is not working.

My windows also do this, but it is because of "user error." The window have a self-correcting circut breaker. If you flip from open to close (or is it close to open) quickly, the powerful window motor will pop their breaker. Wait 30 seconds and the breaker will reset itself.

All fixed!

 

[catchMEifUcan]

As far as this right pull is concerned, has there been a TSB issued? Is it a problem that is easily fixed or is it one of those mysterious problems that just can't ever seem to be figured out?

Remember that the steering in this car is very sensitive. It gives a LOT of road feedback.

My car experiences the "pull" but I do not feel that it is "out of the ordinary." It is the feedback from the road. If your car doesn't do this, then either the road is flat or the engineering of the car is over-compensating.

Out here in the Seattle area, I-405's left two lanes have a 5-10% pitch to the left. If I drive in those lanes, the car pulls slightly to the left. The right lanes are pitched to the right and the car pulls slightly to the right. There are a few flat spots on I-405 (just outside of Bellevuw at the top of the hill) and the car is perfectly nuetral. My truck experiences the exact same conditions in the same locations so it's not the car!

The tires also make HUGE difference. The fat, tall stock puncture-resistance tires seem to exaggerate the conditions. The beach tires I have on my truck are by far worse with those big guys (side walls are soft compound so I can run them with lower pressure to get better grip on the sand). The size of the large size tires - compared to the smaller sizes on another cars - also makes a difference in the amount of pull.

Try putting some 15s with 45s on the car. It's drive more like those rice-burners with less pull.

 

[jcsganga34]

My windows also do this, but it is because of "user error." The window have a self-correcting circut breaker. If you flip from open to close (or is it close to open) quickly, the powerful window motor will pop their breaker. Wait 30 seconds and the breaker will reset itself.

All fixed!

Don't think this is my issue, as the window still does not work (3 days later). Doesn't matter if I use the window switch from the driver panel or the actual door switch, its still a no go. Its going in Monday for the air bag sensor again, and they'll take a look at this as well. *SIGH*. Don't mean to hijack the thread.

 

[catchMEifUcan]

Sorry to hear that JC... hopefully it's something trival like a bad breaker.