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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi there - I've got a golden oldie 2005 5.7 300C. Bought as an ex-demo unit in 2006 and driven it ever since. Awesome beast. But, the other day, I dropped my keys and when I went to start it up, it ran for a few seconds then stopped. Did that a couple of times. I did the key jiggle and it showed up a P0513 error. I removed and reinserted the keys and away she went and I got home OK :)
The next night, I tried to start it, same issue, but this time it wouldn't start. After a couple of attempts, it stopped turning over at all. Now it's just a big paperweight in my driveway.
I live in NZ - Chrysler pulled out of here in 2018 and the local dealer says they can't do anything as they don't have the gear to work on the older Chryslers.
I had new keys cut and programmed - no change.
I took it to an Auto Electrician and he said the Keys look OK (configured with the VIN etc.) but the WIN module isn't passing any signals on is forcing a no crank situation.
I read somewhere that the WIN didn't come out till 2008 and that he may be talking about the WCM ... or is it the PCM that controls this?
Whatever it is, I need to get a replacement. Does anyone have an recommendations where I could go and is there anything specific I need to ask or to get done?
... or is there a magic cure to reset this?
What needs to happen when fitting the replacement unit(s)? I assume they'll need to be programmed to the key?
I'm not a mechanic, so this is a stretch for me :(
Thanking everyone in advance for any lifeline they may throw...
 

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That it started with the keys dropping leaves me wondering.... The battery clip inside the fob is notorious for coming loose. Poor soldering... but it's an easy enough fix if you're a bit handy with a soldering iron. Did anyone look inside the original fob to see?

Another thought is to reset everything... at least what I've done on a few occasions is pull the battery terminals and put them together. Leave them be for a half hour or so to drain the system. You'll loose any memories that have been set, but you might get lucky and what every has hickuped might forget there was a problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
That it started with the keys dropping leaves me wondering.... The battery clip inside the fob is notorious for coming loose. Poor soldering... but it's an easy enough fix if you're a bit handy with a soldering iron. Did anyone look inside the original fob to see?

Another thought is to reset everything... at least what I've done on a few occasions is pull the battery terminals and put them together. Leave them be for a half hour or so to drain the system. You'll loose any memories that have been set, but you might get lucky and what every has hickuped might forget there was a problem.
Thanks for that. I checked the keys but they looked OK. I've had one of the keys re-programmed and a new one cut and programmed but neither of them works - kinda ruling out a single broken key
I've disconnected the battery and left it out for about 5 hours. Reconnected and all codes were gone, but still the car won't turnover.
In the 2005, which would be the most likely at fault component - the WCM or the PCM? I'm confused by the terminology in some of the forum hits that I've read. I assume the key goes in and allows for the ignition switch to physically engage, all the while the key is sending out a signal to the WCM (or is it the PCM) to authorize it and bypass any engine immobilizer functions and activate the engine crank etc. Is that more or less correct?
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for that. I checked the keys but they looked OK. I've had one of the keys re-programmed and a new one cut and programmed but neither of them works - kinda ruling out a single broken key
I've disconnected the battery and left it out for about 5 hours. Reconnected and all codes were gone, but still the car won't turnover.
In the 2005, which would be the most likely at fault component - the WCM or the PCM? I'm confused by the terminology in some of the forum hits that I've read. I assume the key goes in and allows for the ignition switch to physically engage, all the while the key is sending out a signal to the WCM (or is it the PCM) to authorize it and bypass any engine immobilizer functions and activate the engine crank etc. Is that more or less correct?
I'm still wondering (because I don't believe in coincidence when it comes to electronic component failure), if, when I dropped the keys, it managed to scramble the system and send out the wrong /incorrect security key signal, which in turn caused the engine management system to think it might be being stolen and posting the P0513 error?
Could something like this happen and it causes the WCM/PCM to lock up/fail? Now the keys have been re-cut, any evidence of that would be gone though.... :(
 

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" ...any evidence of that would be gone though... "

One would think... that was why my thoughts went to resetting via the cables, but you've already done that.

I'm a little acquainted with the SKIM... or SKREEM module. It sits around the key cylinder and locks the car out if it doesn't shake hands with the fob. I think the WCM came later, but IIRC they are all modules that talk to the PCM. Like the PC's bios... the pcm shakes hands with various, and then lets you start.

I've heard of the PCM being programmed to eliminate the module, and a place that would rebuild the module... When my work is over, and my home pc is available.... there might be notes... I'll post back if nobody else has chimed in.

edited to add This Link, a brief explain from another thread.
 

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That it started with the keys dropping leaves me wondering.... The battery clip inside the fob is notorious for coming loose. Poor soldering... but it's an easy enough fix if you're a bit handy with a soldering iron. Did anyone look inside the original fob to see?

Another thought is to reset everything... at least what I've done on a few occasions is pull the battery terminals and put them together. Leave them be for a half hour or so to drain the system. You'll loose any memories that have been set, but you might get lucky and what every has hickuped might forget there was a problem.
I would check this again and again. I've had 3 early DCX vehicles and every one of them has had battery solder joint problems with the key fobs. Just last week I had another one that was bad. We were getting ready for a trip and I always have my wife carry a spare key. When I checked it, it didn't work, so I pulled it apart and it all looked good. After verifying the battery was good, I then pulled the circuit board and took it out to the car and started ;pushing on the various parts of the board while pushing the buttons. It would work when I pushed in one area of the board. I then used my high powered lighted inspection glasses and noticed a "cold solder joint" on one of the main battery clips. Resoldered it and it works great. FYI, every problem I've ever had with the early DCX key fobs has been solder joints on the battery holder where they're soldered to the board. I've never had one fail again after fixing it.
 

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Hopefully, it will turn out to be something simple.... but it's good to have info... This post is where I recalled a rebuild service. Pricey, but good to know about.

A search on youtube for skim delete brings up several shops offering to remove it via the PCM. IIRC, the module gets removed/unplugged and then the pcm is re-installed. If the pcm never see's the module then it doesn't know it was ever there...

Also, there's no shortage of used modules offered on that big auction site. The replacement module will need to be setup to match your keys... or get a module with the keys. Not sure what that entails, but likely someone around here does.

Hoping it turns out to be the original fob...
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
I read somewhere that the Wireless Ignition Node (WIN) didn't come out till 2008. So if it wasn't available, what was actually used in the 2005 model to authorize the key and then talk to the PCM to get things going? Was it the Body Control Module (BCM) or something else?
Getting confused here .... 😕
 

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At one point, the electrical gremlins lead me to think there were problems... so I read and searched. What follows is my crude understanding, and I stand to be corrected.

In '05, they called it a SKIM module (Sentry Key Immobilizer Module ). It has a ring/antenna that fits around the barrel/cylinder which our key fits into. It shakes hands with our fob via an RF signal to make sure it's the real key and communicates thru the CAN Bus to the PCM.

The antenna is part of the module, and it sits around/behind the key cylinder.

We don't have BCM's. In '05, there is a Forward Control Module located on the front of the power distribution box in the engine compartment (fuse/relay compartment).

Following the SKIM module, it was called SKREEM/WCM (Sentry Key Remote Entry Module/Wireless Control Module) and my guess is that they expanded what else the module was doing. The speed of the CAN Bus changed, and BCM's came into use..

It can be a bit confusing, as the SKIM SKREEM WCM are names often referenced incorrectly or interchangeably for the module that confirms our keys. Also confusing is that the same problem can be created by all of them.

Do you have a manual yet?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Grumpy1 - you rock! Thank you for all that info. I downloaded the manual too :)
Now all I have to do is convince the people I'm dealing with that they're talking through their hat - and with these details and the manual to back me up, it should make my life a lot easier.
I'll get back and let you know the outcome (and hopefully not to have to ask more questions on it).
Thanks again mate - you're a champion! (y)(y)(y)(y)
 

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It only took me two (2) phone calls to track down and contact someone in New Zealand that:
i) knows about 300C's and the immobilizer protocols and
ii) had the test equipment to work on it.

I removed and sent him the ECU and the ignition barrel complete with SKIM Module still attached and both keys. He put it up on his test set, re-programmed the ECU to bypass the SKIM. The ECU was then plugged back in (minus the SKIM) and the car fired up - although with no Immobilizer, TPMS, central locking etc. He then plugged the SKIM back in and fired the car up again. Because the ECU had been reset, the SKIM acted like a mouse being plugged into a USB port on a computer (just another device being plugged in that the computer needs to learn about). The ECU and the SKIM shook hands, made up and started playing again beautifully.

The car is running like a dream!!! All systems working, and I'm smiling :D

Thanks one and all for your help and advice on this issue. Everything I learned is much, much appreciated!
 
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