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Hi everyone, did any one get the paint protection from the dealer? I was talking to Ziebart and they told me that ther product is much better, Plastic coating vs teflon.. I would like to know because I was told from my dealer that I should be getting my car end of this week :)
seen some great pic of the car in black can't wait to be part of the srt family

thanks
 

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IMO save the money. The clear coat is the protection. Wait 2 months after you get the car, so that the paint dries out completely. You can wash with plain water till then, but nothing else. After the 2 months are up, put on the wax of your choice. This was told to me by a new car salesman who's been in the business for many years. Also was told by a painter I've used to paint various classic cars I've owned in the past and present. Cecil......
 

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plain water,

no soap of any kind?? I beleive it...its just kinda shocking. Otherws no more than me on this, so i will follow that advice..
 

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qictrk said:
Only for the first 2 months. You can use a car soap after the 60 days, followed by the wax. Cecil.......

Thanks....I am driviing it from Detroit to Florida. That means no carwashes, correct? And what about a spray wash, with just water (assuming I don't point the sprayer too close).
 

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qictrk said:
Only for the first 2 months. You can use a car soap after the 60 days, followed by the wax. Cecil.......

...or just a LITTLE pH Balanced soap like P21S in the bucket. I use TWO clear water buckets to rinse the sponge.

60 days is correct, some say 90 days to let the paint completely "gas" itself hard. Then wax...


As to WHICH wax, well, let's open a can 'o worms. The TOUGHEST wax I've ever used is that Nu Finish stuff. It really sticks to the paint, for a year, anyways. Not the shiniest, but, the toughest I've used.

Up to now, I've only used the kraut P21S carnuba products on my BMW M3. It's wonderful stuff, but, it doesn't last more than two months. German paints like carnuba based waxes. The Japanese & American paints will take the carnuba wax, or any natural wax, AND the synthetic waxes, as far as I know...

The German paints cloud up when hit with synthetic, polymer based waxes. But, they tend to last longer on the car...

Anybody else wanna chime in....?

LJB ;)
 

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M3SMG02 said:
Anybody else wanna chime in....?

I have said this elsewhere, but I cannot really say it enough. I have used the Zymol waxes, glazes, and washes, on a multitude of cars for the past 12 or 15 years. I began using them on my Jaguar 120/140 restorations and I was so impressed that now I use them on all my autos.

Yes...you can spend kilobucks on Zymol waxes. You do not have to spend a lot, though. Any good wax is not going to be inexpensive. But, you do get what you pay for.

If you are seeking a very hard finish which will ward off everything from bugs to tree saps to chemical fallout (I work at an airport with all sorts of things settling on cars parked nearby), their "Titanium" is hard to beat. It requires a little more effort to apply properly...but the results are top drawer and the shine is tough to beat. Check the pics of my VehiCROSS elsewhere on the site. They were taken only a few months ago....it was five years old at the time and it had seen no other wax in its' life.

So far, I have been using their "Creme" paste wax on my (silver) 300C. For darker colours, they have a different formulation. On the plastic portions (bumpers, fascias,etc.) I use their "Detail" wax as it has proven itself in the past not to dry out the sorts of paints used on plastic parts. I have been very happy with the results from the lot of it.

I am not connected with the company, nor do I operate a detail shop that I am trying to schlep sales for. I merely know a good product when I use one.



....sT
 

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can these prods be purchased an an auto supply store?
 

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With factory paint jobs you do not need to wait to wax the car. The factory process of high temps with modern paint do not require a waiting period. An aftermarket paint job does require the paint to outgas 30-90 days. I personally have been using Klasse AIO and have topped with Klasse SG or 4 star Ultimate Paint Protection. I then top with S100 carnuba wax (available from any Harley store) for a wetter look.
 

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victor rasta said:
So it sounds like i shouldn't get the paint sealent.. The dealer recamends it he said it will protect it from acid rain ect... If i do get the sealent can i still wax the car?
Hi Victor. As always, lots of differing opinions about detailing and protection.

Have a look at the Detailing Forum. Here's the link:
http://www.300cforums.com/forums/forumdisplay.php?f=37

There is a professional detailer in there called Gary. He's the Guru, IMO.

Here's my 2 cents. The clear coat offers virtually no protection and is very thin. The old style carnauba waxes take a lot of work and will last 2 months top in the harsh Ottawa climate. Car needs to be carefully washed, clayed, washed again and a good paint sealant applied.

It's a bit of work at first, but easy to maintain, afterwards. You can apply a wax on top of the sealant. You should not apply sealant on top of wax.
 

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victor rasta said:
So it sounds like i shouldn't get the paint sealent.. The dealer recamends it he said it will protect it from acid rain ect... If i do get the sealent can i still wax the car?
Take a look here...
http://www.perfectautofinish.com/
He is a fellow member and a detailer by trade,
I use his products and am MORE than satisfied.
His paint sealant goes on an comes off with ease.
You be the judge
.
 

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You don't need to wait to wash and wax.

As for the dealer option - pass. It's an overpriced option. Waay overpriced!

I've been a follower of the boards at autopia.org - a bulletin board devoted to uber-geeks of auto detailing, both professional and just obsessed car guys. After 6+ months of reading there, I decided to go with Klasse.

Start with a thorough wash, followed by a treatment with clay bar. Then use Klasse All-In-One, which is a cleaner/wax prep. Follow the All-In-One with Klasse Sealant Glaze, which is a polymer based sealant. I just finished my cool vanilla, and it looks simply stunning.

I chose Klasse over Zaino based on reading autopia.org and the opinion of most that it is the longest lasting, strongest protection.
 

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May the wax wars begin. I have tried soooooo many waxes it makes me chuckle thinking about it. One day I took about 8 different wax products I had and tried to do a test. On the hood of one of my cars I put a sample application of each product in a small separate area. After looking at the shined up samples from every angle I came to the conclusion that the ones with the most gloss, were the ones that you had to reapply every month to keep it looking that way. It all depends on how much maintenance you want to live with. It seems the more acual wax that is in the product, the less you have to rewax--but the less shine. Its a trade off. I not saying which one I use now because a lot of them are a real good products and to close to tell which has the higher gloss. Not only that, its only an opinion and we all have that. Cecil..... :)
 

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C-Man said:
With factory paint jobs you do not need to wait to wax the car. The factory process of high temps with modern paint do not require a waiting period. An aftermarket paint job does require the paint to outgas 30-90 days. I personally have been using Klasse AIO and have topped with Klasse SG or 4 star Ultimate Paint Protection. I then top with S100 carnuba wax (available from any Harley store) for a wetter look.
Yeah, that S100 is made by P21S...same stuff I use on my M3. Great stuff, but, doesn't last long. Oh, well. At leaset it goes on and off quite easily...

LJB ;)
 

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My Advice-for what it's worth

victor rasta said:
thanks for the great info.. so u all tkink I shouldn't get the Paint sealent, I should buy some wax and do it myself.
Don't buy THEIR paint sealent...Buy your own & do it yourself.
Better product,less $$$,greater results, & personal satisfaction
of a job well done
.
 
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