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I have had my Black 300c for 3 weeks and I am trying my best to get a mirror finish on the black paint work but what is the best polish to use ?
 

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On Black Ive always found MER to be very good. It can be hard work but the results Ive had were excellent. No need to chamois the car either as it is best applied with a very slightly damp cloth which removes the watermarks at the same time.
 

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My wife's Envoy is black and I used Meguiars clay bar kit and wax, and that truck has never looked so good! I was looking for a kit called "the black box" it sounded good but I could not find it anywhere. The reviews for the black box were up and down so I decided to just use Meguiars and I really liked the outcome.
 

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That's a loaded question. There are too many answers to what someone finds best. Unless someone ruined the paint, no matter what you use it will look better. You have to be able to access what exactly needs to be done and the condition of the paint prior to restoring.
Are there oxidation spots-water spots-micro marring/swirls that need to be removed? A car as new as these should not need that dramatic restoration unless totally neglected. A good rule of thumb is to always start with the least aggressive method needed to achieve desired results. A good washing followed by a clay bar system can do wonders with little more than elbow grease. Clay bars-like polishes come in different degrees of grit so to speak. Mothers make a kit with a mild clay bar. Prep is one of the keys to any paint detail. After claying,a cleaner/wax or swirl remover is used to remove the fine marks left behind. Follow this up with a good glaze which will further remove marks and add back oils. Making paint shine more is a function of removing top layer of "dead" paint-in this case clear,and flattening or leveling the paint. Polishes( which to a degree are what achieve this) are what brings the shine to paint. A wax is used to top coat and protect. Always follow polishing with a quality wax or sealant. A machine (such as a PC 7424 Random Orbital) will bring about better results faster than hand rubbing. RO's a lot safer than rotaries as the develope less heat, which is what cuts the paint. If you use a machine-use polishes designed for machine use. Same goes for hand polishing. Machine use should be applied with a QUALITY pad that is designed for the product being used.
Good lick and post your results
 

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Ask Stef what he uses,he's got OCCC and his car is mint
 

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I use a load of meguiar's product for detailing my car. Depends of how many acid rain stains and swirls are in, like yamahabob said your gonna get alot of anwsers with different things in it.

No swirls or acid rain? I would wash, clay, inspect the surface for minor defaults, then select a polish that would fit, like a meguiar's M82 or M205 for minor cut of paint. This can be done by hand or a DA or a rotary. (DA is the safest machine)
Then I would seal it with meguair's M21 synthetic sealer, and wax it twice with meguiars M16. OR you could use Meguiars 3step polish system.

And ALWAYS wash your car with a 2 bucket system. Search on youtube for the meguiar's training video, its about 45min long.

Good luck
 

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Search on youtube for the meguiar's training video, its about 45min long.
That's 45 minutes of your life you won't get back! I got bored (and frustrated at the pace) after a couple of minutes. The short version seems to be: Rinse your sponge in one bucket, apply the shampoo from the second one. There, I've saved everyone 44 minutes (unless there was something useful in the bit I skipped....)
 

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You'll want a lambswool wash mitt. Meguiers Cley bar kit, Meguiers NXT wax, Turtle Wax shine sealant, and half a 'no wind' cloudy day to do it all. My car never looked so good, even better than when it was new. Dont forget some tyre shine!
I made my own grit guard out of some gridded plastic packaging, dropped it into a bucket, = free grit guard!
 

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Can someone tell me more about the 'grit guard' bucket....how do you make one?

I assume the concept is for the grit to fall to the bottom and the false mesh bottom sits above the bottom so you avoid the grit? Is that basically it?

I already use separate buckets and lambswool mitts for the paint and wheels.

Cheers.
 

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I am thinking you could take a 8" to 10" subwoofer cover and fab some legs on it and put it in the bottom of the bucket to make a grit guard?
just a idea.
 

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Can someone tell me more about the 'grit guard' bucket....how do you make one?
I found a plastic "saucer" (the type that sits under a plant pot), which fitted upside-down in the bottom of my bucket.

Then spent 10 mins carefully drilling loads of 6mm holes in it, leaving the smallest gap that I could between the holes. Screwed a bolt into it to stop it floating and "bobs your uncle" done.

So now I've got 2 (one for soapy & one for rinsing) for the princely sum of £3.00 and they work a treat.
 

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Can someone tell me more about the 'grit guard' bucket....how do you make one?

I assume the concept is for the grit to fall to the bottom and the false mesh bottom sits above the bottom so you avoid the grit? Is that basically it?

I already use separate buckets and lambswool mitts for the paint and wheels. ]

Hi Slang Yeah thats it! Its just to stop dirt thats already in the bucket from getting back on the mitt. I had some plastic grid to hand, but I can see a speaker cover working just as well.
 

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If your going on about which wax to use for your car you might what to look at this forum which is all about car/wax/polish/prep etc

A world for detailers...
 

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I assume the concept is for the grit to fall to the bottom and the false mesh bottom sits above the bottom so you avoid the grit? Is that basically it?

Yes that's right, the grit falls through the holes and stays in the "still water" at the bottom of the bucket, its not "stirred or churned up" back into the washing mix because of the "baffle" effect of the mesh/saucer.

Well that's the theory anyway :wink:
 

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While the grit guard no doubt helps,give a quick squirt to your wash cloth/mitt before putting into bucket after each wipe. Plan on a full day devoted to paint care. While most store bought brands are fine( your mequiars-turtle waxes) they do not hold up as well as some of the specialty brands.
As I stated earlier,polishes are what give a shine to the car. Wax's are used to protect the freshly polished surface and provide a barrier between the elements. They also add to the "depth "
of the shine. Off the shelf wax's stating the inclusion of carnuba,contain very small amounts. There are 2 types used-yellow and white.White is the more superior of the two and much more uncommon. Carnuba breaks down under UV light,so depending on your cars exposure,some will need attention more often. Surface contaminants will also affect the shine. After washing,you should be able to slide your hand across the paint and feel silky smooth.
 
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