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Hello everyone quick question i would like to install a hhp 268 camshaft on my 05 chrysler 300 5.7, but before I start I would like some more information on whether or not I must port my heads in order to run this type of cam or just replacing the rods and springs with 6.1's is all I would really need. Also HHP is recommending that I install a higher stall torque converter due to supposed idle issues is this really a must or can I get by without one.
 

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I can't commit on the cam/head situation. Although I left my stock converter on my 6.4 300 after a large cam swap. It wanted to shut off when coming to a stop (dropped rpm from 1100 to 600) then the ecu gave it gas so it wouldnt die so it would blip to 1300 rpm. Every time I came to a stop so it was quite bothersome.
 

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You DO NOT need, or want ported and polished heads IF you're keeping the stock displacement. I know this first hand....just ask. You really only need pushrods and valve springs and a good tune. It'll run with the stock tune (some say it won't, but I've done it), but you won't get anywhere near the full potential without one. How many miles are on the engine? What kind of oil have you been running.....fossil or synthetic? When you pull the cam be sure to check it thoroughly for any signs of wear, galling, scoring, etc. If there are any suspect areas, you'll need to pull the heads and check/change the valve lifters. If you don't want or need to, you can change the valve springs with the heads in place but you'll need a special tool and a way of pressurizing each cylinder when you do it. Otherwise you'll have to pull the heads to change the springs, at which time you can check all of the lifters. If you pull the lifters and end up reusing them, be sure they go back into the same lifter bore and will rotate in the same direction they did when you pulled them out. On reassembly, be sure to use lots of assembly lube on all valve train components. I use Lucas assembly lube and Comp. Cams valve train lube. Also, DO NOT rev the engine on the first start after the cam change UNTIL you've let it idle (about 900-1100 RPM) for about 15-20 minutes to insure all the lifters are pumped up.

A torque converter is also not a "must have" but it will help a little. IMO, it's not worth the $$$ for the small gains, unless you have to pull the transmission for some other reason. With the cam, you may get the infamous "idle dip" when warm and coming to a stop. It can be annoying but it won't hurt anything. Both of my Comp. cammed LX's do it and I just live with it. As time permits, I've just started tinkering with the torque converter clutch release RPM in an effort to lessen or eliminate it.
 
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