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Now that I am getting closer to the day I finally bring my baby home I was wondering what you guys think proper break in procedure is. I have heard many differant things
1)Drive it like you will always drive it ,Hard if going to drive it hard, Baby it if you are going to Baby it(Not sure if I agree with this one)
2)Drive varying speeds no WOT for first 1000 mi or so(sound O.K. i guess)
and of course never drive it hard until propery warmed up this is common sense in my opinion but any other suggestions would be greatly appreciated because I definetly dont want to hurt my bABY
tHANKS gUYS! :wave:
 

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300csrt

dude, it is your car...
you can flog it...
baby it...
wax it...
drive back to the fast food place for a ketchup pack for your fries...
it is your pearl in a sea of oysters...

I personally put 300 miles on it (remember I drove it 2,400 miles back to San Diego) before I went WOT...
and was lucky that there was lots of construction sites on the freeway to give me the variable speeds needed...

to each his own brother...
no matter what, you will enjoy this car like now other you have had prior...
HAPPY MOTORING!!!
and let us know when you get it.
 

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Properly Warmed Up

300CSRT said:
... and of course never drive it hard until propery warmed up this is common sense in my opinion
What oil temp to people figure is "properly warmed up"?
A) 50% of normal operating temp
B) 75% of normal operating temp
C) 90% of normal operating temp

I have a problem with premature accelaration. I get myself so worked up and excited just getting in the car that I'm lucky if I can even wait 30 secornds before I "floor it". :wink1:
 

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Uh, guys, 300CSRT was asking for technical advice...none of us have been very helpful...
 

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300CSRT said:
Now that I am getting closer to the day I finally bring my baby home I was wondering what you guys think proper break in procedure is. I have heard many differant things
1)Drive it like you will always drive it ,Hard if going to drive it hard, Baby it if you are going to Baby it(Not sure if I agree with this one)
2)Drive varying speeds no WOT for first 1000 mi or so(sound O.K. i guess)
and of course never drive it hard until propery warmed up this is common sense in my opinion but any other suggestions would be greatly appreciated because I definetly dont want to hurt my bABY
tHANKS gUYS! :wave:

With any other car i've owned I've gone 500 miles breakin, but with the SRT i thought it might not be a bad idea to go a little more. i went to 700 miles before I really drove it hard at all. You do have to understand that of those first 700 even though I never hit WOT I did pretty regularly have it on the open hwy at about 100 for some extended periods. 5 min here.......10 min there. just enough to get some continous revs on her. After 700 miles i kinda went batshit for about 500 miles. Pretty hard, but pretty sensible at the same time.

First oil change for me was at 1200 miles ( and would have been sooner but I had to travel to get her------and bring her home) and from 1500 miles to where i am now (3600) been driving it like I normally drive.. My wife has a lead foot so i can get away with alot more than most guys......but I guess i drive it fairly hard. THIS CAR MAKES IT VERY EASY TO DO. I really couldn't imagine babying this kind of car for too long. car likes to run and she likes to do it quickly.

I also plan on changing ALL fluids at 3000 miles. DCX suggests 6000, but I don't mind buying a little extra peace- of -mind. That's just me being neurotic, but if i don't see it going in.............how do i really know what's in there???

i firmly believe that with an engine like this things should be replaced a little earlier than normal(at first) and break-in should last a little longer. it's a brand new engine that's relatively untested and the tolerances needed to make this kind of horsepower and torque are VERY tight. but it is still a performance engine. just be smart.........I've always found that a car like this will kinda LET YOU KNOW when she's ready to go to the next step.

anyways.....sorry for the ramble, but i just got off a 7 hour flight.....time to sleep............ :yawn: :yawn:

BTW: I always give the car about 10 min to get to operating temp before any WOT or anything crazy
 

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WTF is WOT?

Hey guys, what does the acronymn WOT stand for?
 

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300CSRT said:
Now that I am getting closer to the day I finally bring my baby home I was wondering what you guys think proper break in procedure is. I have heard many differant things
1)Drive it like you will always drive it ,Hard if going to drive it hard, Baby it if you are going to Baby it(Not sure if I agree with this one)
2)Drive varying speeds no WOT for first 1000 mi or so(sound O.K. i guess)
and of course never drive it hard until propery warmed up this is common sense in my opinion but any other suggestions would be greatly appreciated because I definetly dont want to hurt my bABY
tHANKS gUYS! :wave:
I say something in between the two- drive at variable speeds for 500 mls, get on it but not full throttle, change the oil at 500 mls.

or you can READ THE MANUAL.
 

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Just curious jc119, change all fluids at 3K? Seems tranny, coolant, rear differential and brake fluids getting changed this soon requires some 'splaining. Where on earth does a recommendation like this come from, I have never heard of this and I thought I knew everything :silly:

I hope you have seen my various threads on oil filter and pan magnets showing evidence (not opinion) on the benefits especially on a new engine at break in, oh I'll do the search, Here is the pan magnet, Filtermag results are here.
 

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kings - where did you get the filter mag? (it looks different than the bolt mag)
 

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marnepup said:
Uh, guys, 300CSRT was asking for technical advice...none of us have been very helpful...
Here you go Marnepup, :wave: my pleasure:

I've read much about modern engines not needing "running in". This is partly due to improved materials, surface coatings and higher spec. lubricants.

Piston rings have a running-in and anti-scuff coating, which facilitates a quick bedding in. Cylinder bore surface have improved hone patterns to retain oil, allow early smoothing, facilitate surface polishing and the sealing/hardening process taking place. The 300c and SRT8 pistons have a coating to reduce microsiezure of piston to bore, with consequent tearing of the piston surface metal.

When factory fresh the engine can be described as "tight".

The gradual smoothing and hardening of moving/mating surfaces, is what a running in process achieves.

The valves (particularly exhaust) and pistons are operating in conditions close to the fires of Hades. Problems that can occur - particularly if the engine is run hard from cold with micro siezures (and sometimes not so micro) at metal to metal surfaces - such as piston to bore and valve to guide. The metal gets too hot, literally fuses, and then tears.

There is risk (in very low mile engine) that the polishing/smoothing process may become more tearing/fusing particularly in running at WOT without warming up. Risks are also there in doing repeated 1/4 mile runs - particularly in hot climate conditions, or lugging the engine in mountainous conditions at v.low mileage, or repeated back to back Dyno runs without correct precautions in hot conditions. Particularly if they are not interspersed by some medium/low mixed speed running to dissipate heat built up.

The idea of treating an engine somewhat more gently for the first 6000 or so miles (10,000Km) is one that has my backing.

But don't just take my word for it here is a quote from Ralph Gilles - the designer of the cars we drive. He's talking about the engine freeing up.

It is a natural process of everything being in very tight tolerance and some good old fashion ring seating. Some claim they feel it by 3000 (on the 5.7) others at 6000 it depends on your driving style. We have consistently seen motors opening up (breaking in) at approximately 3000. The 6.1 is a little different as it is shipped with Mobil1 synthetic, so it logically takes a little longer. I just know by 6000 it is most certainly at its theoretical max.
The chances of the initial surface bedding going smoothly (deliberate pun) will improve, if the engine is treated to a mixed load; using very occasional short bursts of WOT, only when the engine is fully warm. The increased combustion gas pressure, behind the piston rings forces them into a more intense contact with the bore. Then immediately following WOT by some medium/low mixed speed running, to dissipate the heat built up.

This is just an opinion, and open to rebuke. I did not make emotional statements like "WOT off the showroom floor is tanatmount to engine-rape".
But maybe it is!

Zilla
 

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II kings 9:20 said:
Just curious jc119, change all fluids at 3K? Seems tranny, coolant, rear differential and brake fluids getting changed this soon requires some 'splaining. Where on earth does a recommendation like this come from, I have never heard of this and I thought I knew everything :silly:

I hope you have seen my various threads on oil filter and pan magnets showing evidence (not opinion) on the benefits especially on a new engine at break in, oh I'll do the search, Here is the pan magnet, Filtermag results are here.

It really doesn't come fron anywhere but my neurosis!!!! like I said if i don't see it going in I just don't know. It's probably just fine to go 6000 like DCX suggests, but i always have done it early. Doesn't really cost much more than an oil change and for my peice of mind(especially on a relatively untested motor) it's worth it to me. I find it interesting that the auto manufacturers have begun to view proper engine break -in as something that is unecessary, but I guess I'm a little old school in my thinking. better be safe than sorry, you know. Attention to the details is NEVER a bad thing when it comes to anything mechanical
 

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II kings 9:20 said:
Just curious jc119, change all fluids at 3K? Seems tranny, coolant, rear differential and brake fluids getting changed this soon requires some 'splaining. Where on earth does a recommendation like this come from, I have never heard of this and I thought I knew everything :silly:

I hope you have seen my various threads on oil filter and pan magnets showing evidence (not opinion) on the benefits especially on a new engine at break in, oh I'll do the search, Here is the pan magnet, Filtermag results are here.
very good points on the magnets too. Engineers can laugh all they want, but chunks of metal flying around inside your engine might be CONSIDERED normal, but it is still NEVER good
 

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....Well if your gonna break in the engine that way please drain the trans oil too, I like Benz trans jobs$$$$$$$$
 

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Break-In

I drove mine home from the dealer WOT with only 20 miles.

I say to drive it WOT until the tank runs dry.

That will provide a consistent break-in.

MichSRT8
 
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