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Discussion Starter #1
So, after curing the excessive cranking before staring by changing the fuel filter, the C has bitten back by deciding not to crank at all. All the dash lights come on as they should but the final turn of the key produces nothing. The battery voltage on the EVIC shows a steady 11.7v with no drop. I realise this is a little low so I tried boost cables on my Range Rover which put it at 13.4v but still no luck. I've tried the other key with no change. My next move is to unplug the front TPMS receivers, and after that I have been advised to check the wiring to the starter motor. The car is showing no codes.
My questions are:
Would the rear TPMS receiver affect cranking in the same way as the front?
Where exactly is the "Master Connector" near the air con condenser, and what does it look like please?
Which side is the starter motor and is it accessible from underneath? Is it likely/possible that a wire could have come loose (I have my doubts personally)?
And lastly, as I am short of ideas, can anyone suggest any further options that might be worth a try before I seek professional help.
Thanks for reading, and thanks in advance for any opinions.
 

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Best to try the easy bit first and prove the starter motor. (By the way the, battery volts are very low at 11.7V. That's only about 40% charged and would be unlikely to turn the engine over)

See attached drawing. The following checks can all be done with the ignition off.
Unplug the starter relay from the front fuse box. Check for battery voltage on pin 85 and Pin 30. If voltage is on these 2 pins push a thin copper wire to short pins 30 to 87. This applies battery voltage to the starter solenoid and the starter should turn the engine.
If the engine doesn't turn and the battery is in good order you need to be underneath to get at the starter motor to either cure bad connections or change the starter motor. (Check the thin wire at the solenoid is clean and secure)

I haven't responded to all the other questions as best to prove the starter motor first.
Think you would have got codes with faulty TPMS.

Jack
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks for that Jack, most helpful. I had a call from Gasman last night who also suggested the solenoid excited wire. Looks like that is the way to go and being able to test the theory before I climb underneath is a massive help. ?
 

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Thanks for that Jack, most helpful. I had a call from Gasman last night who also suggested the solenoid excited wire. Looks like that is the way to go and being able to test the theory before I climb underneath is a massive help. ?
Its so easy to prove the starter motor on ours by just shorting the relay contacts. I have personally done it many times. Just have to make sure you unplug the correct relay and short the correct 2 pins on the relay base.

I assume you can identify the relay and the pin numbers OK on the relay base ?
If you need any help just shout.

Jack
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Cheers Jack. I'm not overly good with elastictrickery but I presume the relay will be identified in the handbook and that the pins will be marked somewhere?
 

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Cheers Jack. I'm not overly good with elastictrickery but I presume the relay will be identified in the handbook and that the pins will be marked somewhere?
Don't think you will find the relay identified in the handbook. I can't get access to my info at the moment but will try and get back to you soon with the info you need.
Someone else may help if I haven't got back to you in time.

Jack
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Cheers Jack. No rush as I probably won't be able to do much till Saturday.
 

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See the 2 attached drawings (I don't know which layout you have so the attachments show the 2 possibilities)

Please bear in mind then when looking at relay bases the pin numbers appear to change location depending upon whether they have been labelled and identified from looking down on the relay base, or looking up from underneath. So be careful and certain you get the correct relay and the correct pin numbers.

The first drawing has pin numbers identified as looking "up" at the bottom of the base. The second drawing notes that the pin numbers are viewed looking "down" onto the base rather than "up" from below the base.

Starter motor is accessible from below after removing the splash guard below the engine. Not easy to get at. Rear LH of engine when viewed from drivers position. (See 3rd picture which shows starter motor and the thin wire that goes to the solenoid). EDIT. Just realised it doesnt show the thin wire itself, but it does show the connector of the thin wire onto the solenoid. Thick thick wire is the permanently live wire from the battery to the starter so don't short the thick wire to chassis by a spanner etc.

Jack
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Brilliant Jack, thank you. I should be on it Saturday (weather permitting) so I'll let you know how I get on sometime after then. Once again many thanks, your input I greatly appreciated.
 

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Mine had the exciter wire problem. With a torch and a reasonable piece of ground you can reach under from behind the passenger front wheel and wiggle the terminal where the wire pushes onto the starter. Cured mine immediately so I lifted it and gave the terminals a good clean. Been good for over a year now (fingers crossed!)
 

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Mine had the exciter wire problem. With a torch and a reasonable piece of ground you can reach under from behind the passenger front wheel and wiggle the terminal where the wire pushes onto the starter. Cured mine immediately so I lifted it and gave the terminals a good clean. Been good for over a year now (fingers crossed!)
Wow, well done. Don't know how you got to that without getting underneath. Thanks, Will give it a try sometime.

Jack
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Mine had the exciter wire problem. With a torch and a reasonable piece of ground you can reach under from behind the passenger front wheel and wiggle the terminal where the wire pushes onto the starter. Cured mine immediately so I lifted it and gave the terminals a good clean. Been good for over a year now (fingers crossed!)
Does yours have a full belly pan on and can you access it with it in situ?
 

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Mine had the exciter wire problem. With a torch and a reasonable piece of ground you can reach under from behind the passenger front wheel and wiggle the terminal where the wire pushes onto the starter. Cured mine immediately so I lifted it and gave the terminals a good clean. Been good for over a year now (fingers crossed!)
I to have also suffered from this and also been stranded twice due to the small plastic connector. It just immobilises the car full stop! Its still funny that something so insignificant can do that.

After replacing the connector its been fine ever since. Hope its the same for yours :)
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Marvelous. Thanks for that.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Well, a massive thanks to Jack and everyone else who contributed. The 300 is back up and running. I followed Jacks advice and jumped the pins under the relay and nothing happened so I dragged it onto the ramps and crawled underneath. There didn't appear to be an issue with the exciter wire bur after a quick wiggle she started. So I pulled it off, cleaned the pin and squirted it with lithium grease. All seems well now. I would have preferred to see more of a problem that I could fix but hey ho hopefully it was just enough corrosion to prevent a good contact.
 

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That is good news then ^^^^^^^^^

Though it would have been starter motor or starter wiring related because if it had been TPMS or logic related you should have got at least one error code.

Ours seem very sensitive to bad connections on the starter solenoid. Even the solenoid draws a fair whack of current though (About 10 to 15 Amps), so a bad connection soon drops the voltage and stops the solenoid pulling in.

It's worth remembering how to prove the starters on ours as it can be done in just a few minutes without getting underneath.

Jack
 

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I wonder why this connector causes so much trouble; is it the common "spade" type, or something different?
Yes it a pretty standard spade terminal with not a lot of protection from rain/salt from the road. I agree with the above it is surprising, it looks OK but there has to be just enough corrosion to stop enough power getting through. A simple wiggle/push on makes enough good contact to get going again!
 

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Yes, as said above. A standard spade (with a bugger of a securing clip to get it released).

I think its a combination of the battery being in the boot as well as bad connections on the solenoid with also slight spreading of the female lug on the connector. I know its heavy cable between the battery and the engine compartment, but there are fractions of volts dropped on the cable when a fair current is drawn. I know that for a fact as I've checked mine out.

Jack
 
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