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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
The local speaker shop has come up with an excellent installation to replace the BA6 I've got now. I'm looking at a completely stealth install with the following:

Custom molded fiberglass subwoofer enclosure/amp display in place of the spare tire

One 10" JL W6 powered by a JL 1ch E1400 amp under the cargo area

PB Components in the doors (with the tweeters mounted in the dash)

Pioneer 4-way 6x9s in the rear (my favorite sounding 6x9s)

JL 4ch E4300 amp

JL Cleansweep (maybe)

All the wires, Dynamat, distirubution blocks, and bits and pieces included with install

With tax and without the Cleansweep, they want $2200. Now I've got some experience installing speakers and amps and I've seen a lot of the products they wrote up in the quote for sale online for much, much less. I might be lazy, but I just don't feel like doing it myself. How bad am I getting cleaned here?

My biggest question revolves around the removal of the stock amp and how that impacts my UConnect and navigation voice (along with bass/treble/fade/balance settings. I love the stock look of the head unit and all of its functions, so I want to keep that. Since the stock amp is a 6-channel amp, we came to the conclusion that it was acceptable to lose the two dash speakers in favor of a four channel amp with the components split between the door and the dash and the 6x9s in the back.

What would I lose in this configuration? Workarounds?
 

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Seems like a fair price considering the fiberglass enclosure. You might want to have them work in some sort of Cap/Extra battery because you will most likely experience dimming.

Most importantly, is this a local shop that you've seen their work before? Heard they were good? Had previous experiences? These are the things that will affect the end result the most.

Don't forget to shop around. Avoid chain stores...
 

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I'm mid way through installing my system with the intention of keeping steering wheel controls and uconnect. The intention is to upgrade the front door and rear speakers plus sub and aftermarket amps. In order to keep the uconnect working, I had to tap the signal after the factory amp. Uconnect still works through the dash speakers; steering wheel functions still work as well. I tried tapping the signal before the amp and lost uconnect and dash speakers.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I went online and looked up pricing for stuff and found that I could save about $500 if I buy the parts myself, but then I'd sacrifice some of the install savings I'd get if I went through them. Plus, with JL Audio, you only have a warranty if you had the stuff installed and pruchased from an authorized reseller... so it's just as well.

I went back and talked to him and it sounds like he might come down on some of his pricing, so we'll see. I also went ahead a decided that rather than get the 4ch amp, I'll get the 6ch JL e6450 amp. It's barely much more and will save me the headache of losing two potentially vital channels.
 

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You may want to check into the wire type being ran from the factory amp. I hear it has a fiberoptic core for data transfer and once it is cut it does not relay info anymore unless it is replaced by the same type of wire.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
GEN XER said:
You may want to check into the wire type being ran from the factory amp. I hear it has a fiberoptic core for data transfer and once it is cut it does not relay info anymore unless it is replaced by the same type of wire.
OK, thank you very much for scaring the crap out of me. Anyone else care to elaborate on this? It's crucial for me to maintain all of the functions of the head unit. I just want cleaner power and more of it to drive all sorts of new speakers.
 

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nick_danger said:
OK, thank you very much for scaring the crap out of me. Anyone else care to elaborate on this? It's crucial for me to maintain all of the functions of the head unit. I just want cleaner power and more of it to drive all sorts of new speakers.
Perhaps he is thinking about the CANBUS?

You will be fine. Tap into the signal using a Line converter. I've been using this setup for over 7 months.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Hmm, I don't believe my installers know that a line converter is required - if it is. Are there just stereo cables coming from the head unit to the stock amp or is there a single proprietary cable? Do I need to keep the stock amp in the car and then use high-pass frequency converters to plug into my JL 6ch amp from the stock amp? I'd just really love a diagram. That's all I really need to get a handle on this.
 

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nick_danger said:
Hmm, I don't believe my installers know that a line converter is required - if it is. Are there just stereo cables coming from the head unit to the stock amp or is there a single proprietary cable? Do I need to keep the stock amp in the car and then use high-pass frequency converters to plug into my JL 6ch amp from the stock amp? I'd just really love a diagram. That's all I really need to get a handle on this.
Try doing a search on "Line Level" and "Line output" and you'll find diagrams and just about everything else you need.
 

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I'm curious why a guy who doesn't even know that he is using his Clean Sweep incorrectly would or even could recommend such a device.

I've heard multiple installations in 300cs without any sort of $300 doodads from JL audio that had amazing SQ and SPL with minimal DSP from the head unit. All it takes is a qualified installer.

A Line output converter will do just fine for your needs. Your audio shop can even opt to not use one at all and splice in RCAs. Your installer will know exactly what to do, but if you have concerns, you should express them or find a different installer.
 

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I've got a good sounding system without tons of money into it and no fancy interfaces.

BTW, you will lose your UConnect ability if you replace that amp.....

Give me a call man, I'll help you figure out something for much less then the quoted price and you'll be more then happy with it. :)
 
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