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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
MOT found this had broken, a new sensor is required to get the broken link which has plastic ball joint sockets (over £100) . Nothing wrong with the sensor itself just the link to the lower arm. 6M Stainless threaded rod and a couple of 6M ball joints, sorted for less than £10. Ebay is wonderful :)
Hope this helps someone.
 

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Great fix, well done.

I "disabled" mine on my car (2007) One of the few things in the car that just didn't work when I got it. Does all the "start up cal" and all the rest, but every now and then the lights "reset" when on the road; that is they look up to the trees, back down, back to preset height.

Not very often, but enough to be annoying; and get flashed by angry drivers thinking it is high beam. I also noted other cars like mine "flashing me" so they have same problem.

Read the forums, people said they have been to dealers, had them reset, changed modules = still the same.

I removed the link arms front and back and bolted them static so they cannot move. Adjusted headlights and they have been perfect for the 5 years they have been like that.

One of three things I learnt from the forums and fixed as soon as I got the car (The other was the stupid "tin sheath" wheel nuts, what the?????) and the "pink plastic park" lockout that WILL fail one day (not "if" - definitely "when".) I waited for that to fail (it did); but when it did, I had new part/knew how to fix. The forums/you tube/Ebay. Where would we be without them??? :)
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Great fix, well done.

One of three things I learnt from the forums and fixed as soon as I got the car (The other was the stupid "tin sheath" wheel nuts, what the?????) and the "pink plastic park" lockout that WILL fail one day (not "if" - definitely "when".) I waited for that to fail (it did); but when it did, I had new part/knew how to fix. The forums/you tube/Ebay. Where would we be without them??? :)
Thanks, you're absolutely right. I love the diy fix info, knowledge from someone who's been there etc. These forums are superb. I've got a couple of 90's US Chevrolets and without the US forums I would be stumped for fix info,parts etc. Always plenty of people eager to help out. Big thanks to all ::biggrin::
 

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and the "pink plastic park" lockout that WILL fail one day (not "if" - definitely "when".) I waited for that to fail (it did); but when it did, I had new part/knew how to fix.
Although I don't have a new part to hand, I do carry around a long shaft screwdriver which can be used to shift the pink thingy lockout in an emergency (tip from this forum). It is also possible to effect a cheap repair of the pink thingy - another forum tip. Also, having the CRD and again following forum advice, I carry around a swirl motor substitute dongle, just in case.
 

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Hey guys, i know this is an old thread, bud anyone know the sizes of the arm? Mine fell off or someone took it off 😔 and don't have a comparable piece so i can build it, thanks in advance
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Hey guys, i know this is an old thread, bud anyone know the sizes of the arm? Mine fell off or someone took it off 😔 and don't have a comparable piece so i can build it, thanks in advance
There you go, make it to 100mm and you'll be damn close. I made this up to match the one from my car with a broken plastic ball joint.
176580
 

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MOT found this had broken, a new sensor is required to get the broken link which has plastic ball joint sockets (over £100) . Nothing wrong with the sensor itself just the link to the lower arm. 6M Stainless threaded rod and a couple of 6M ball joints, sorted for less than £10. Ebay is wonderful :)
Hope this helps someone.
This is a really useful tip - albeit from 2018. Finding this link bar is nearly impossible, because they are so often missing from scrap vehicles. They are often disconnected if the lower suspension is replaced as the new arm does not come with a stud.

As I have just been researching where to get the parts, there are also these options available:

Headlamp Sensor, Rear - Mopar (57010714AB - replaces 57010714AA )
Note that the linker is included with the Rear Sensor assembly, and the stud is molded into the sensor arm.

Doman Ride Height Sensor Rear Link
M6 Stud

...or for making up your own as the OP suggested, here are some links to suitable components from McMaster-Carr in the US:

For the lower suspension arm connection, you can use this nut and Ball joint linkage:
9246A300 Medium-Strength Steel Nylon-Insert Flange Locknut, Class 8, Zinc-Plated, M6 x 1 mm Thread
6058K851 Ball Joint Linkage, 304 Stainless Steel, Right Hand M6 x 1 mm Thread Shank

For the Sensor end, note that the M6 stud is molded into the sensor arm, so you cannot simply bolt a new stud into it without some modification.
In this case it may be preferrable to fit this quick install type to the sensor end, which should (not yet tested myself) fit the OEM part.
6058K67 Ball Joint Linkage, Quick-Install, 18-8 Stainless Steel, M6 x 1 mm Thread

The stainless steel rod is available in lengths of 1ft which you would need to cut to size. The actual length quoted is 3.96 In between stud centres, which is 100.5mm
1274T45 Easy-to-Machine 303 Stainless Steel Rod, 6 mm Diameter

Hope this is useful information for others in the same situation.
 
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