Chrysler 300C & SRT8 Forums banner

1 - 15 of 15 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
this is a first for me.. 1st new car ever and 1st american car ever. I just picked up my 2006 300C AWD 5.7 Brilliant Black with Lt/Dk Slate interior.

The car is a beautiful machine.

I did some upgrades to the lighting system that will make subtle changes to our light output.

1st i purchased 4 9011 HIR bulbs. These bulbs are like the 9005 bulb but they are sphereical shaped and have coating that will reflect the infrared heat back at the filament to produce better light output. GE makes these bulbs for the Dodge viper and according to the spec sheets outputs over 1000 lumens more with little or no more current draw then standard 9005 bulbs.

I have shaved one of the tabs of each bulb down to fit in the housing of the high beam and fog light. These bulbs have the exact sam filament location of the fog light and high beam bulb. So the beam pattern will not be changed in any way.

The catch.. these bulbs run about 25 dollars each.

http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/bulbs/bulb_types/bulb_types.html

This web site has ratings on the bulbs..


These bulbs wre transfered over from my 97 audi A8 which i retrofitted a few years ago when the bulbs were 50 each. They really do work and would like to share whatever i can.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
354 Posts
Kamakazie2 said:
this is a first for me.. 1st new car ever and 1st american car ever. I just picked up my 2006 300C AWD 5.7 Brilliant Black with Lt/Dk Slate interior.

The car is a beautiful machine.

I did some upgrades to the lighting system that will make subtle changes to our light output.

1st i purchased 4 9011 HIR bulbs. These bulbs are like the 9005 bulb but they are sphereical shaped and have coating that will reflect the infrared heat back at the filament to produce better light output. GE makes these bulbs for the Dodge viper and according to the spec sheets outputs over 1000 lumens more with little or no more current draw then standard 9005 bulbs.

I have shaved one of the tabs of each bulb down to fit in the housing of the high beam and fog light. These bulbs have the exact sam filament location of the fog light and high beam bulb. So the beam pattern will not be changed in any way.

The catch.. these bulbs run about 25 dollars each.

http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/bulbs/bulb_types/bulb_types.html

This web site has ratings on the bulbs..


These bulbs wre transfered over from my 97 audi A8 which i retrofitted a few years ago when the bulbs were 50 each. They really do work and would like to share whatever i can.
Great Thread you started. Daniel Stern lighting is a great sight and I have shared it with many who think those fake blue bulbs are the answer. These bulbs you mention above should be excellent. I am wondering what color output is? I know it is white, but is it bright-white where as the yellowish hue is no longer present like with stock bulbs? I am also curious as to how much effort was in filing the tabs down. Please give us your full report and review asap. Thanks.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Johnny Vig said:
Great Thread you started. Daniel Stern lighting is a great sight and I have shared it with many who think those fake blue bulbs are the answer. These bulbs you mention above should be excellent. I am wondering what color output is? I know it is white, but is it bright-white where as the yellowish hue is no longer present like with stock bulbs? I am also curious as to how much effort was in filing the tabs down. Please give us your full report and review asap. Thanks.
The light output is a bright white.. compared to the HID low beams they are obviousley a yellowish hue..but in comparison they are slightly whiter than stock high beams. The fogs however were a different story. The stock fog light bulb is a modified 9005 bulb that is only 42 watts. the upgrade alont to the 9005 bulb brings it up to 65 watts. Then add on the HIR upgrades and you have a nice glare free foglight without melting your stockwiring or fuses.

BTW where did you get the sub enclosure? I still need to transfer mt car pc to the 300c. I wsa able to get the dealer to throw in the srt8 spoiler and the nav dash along with my purchase so i have to mold my monitor to the dash bezel.

A camera cannot really capture the subtle difference in light ouput that the highs and fogs will put out compared to the stock bulbs.. the real difference is howmuch further the beam fous goes when the high beams are on.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
354 Posts
Kamakazie2 said:
The light output is a bright white.. compared to the HID low beams they are obviousley a yellowish hue..but in comparison they are slightly whiter than stock high beams. The fogs however were a different story. The stock fog light bulb is a modified 9005 bulb that is only 42 watts. the upgrade alont to the 9005 bulb brings it up to 65 watts. Then add on the HIR upgrades and you have a nice glare free foglight without melting your stockwiring or fuses.

BTW where did you get the sub enclosure? I still need to transfer mt car pc to the 300c. I wsa able to get the dealer to throw in the srt8 spoiler and the nav dash along with my purchase so i have to mold my monitor to the dash bezel.

A camera cannot really capture the subtle difference in light ouput that the highs and fogs will put out compared to the stock bulbs.. the real difference is howmuch further the beam fous goes when the high beams are on.
Sub-enclosure is factory Kicker. You can do a search on this forum for custom enclosures that look like this one.

I don't use high beams that often so I am more curious on the fog bulbs. From what I read you recommend the 65 watt HIR 9005 bulbs, correct? Where did u buy them from, because Daniel Stern does not have them listed. Thanks.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Johnny Vig said:
Sub-enclosure is factory Kicker. You can do a search on this forum for custom enclosures that look like this one.

I don't use high beams that often so I am more curious on the fog bulbs. From what I read you recommend the 65 watt HIR 9005 bulbs, correct? Where did u buy them from, because Daniel Stern does not have them listed. Thanks.

They are very hard to find.. the best place would probably be ebay.. Daniel Stern does not advertide them for sale however emial him and he will give you a quote.. thats where i got mine from originally.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
doktorek said:
Doesnt the 65W bulb melt the fog light housing after a while? That used to be an issue in other cars I used to owe.
Well its been 1200 miles and i took the bulb out of the fog light to check for any melting... nothing.. its all in perfect shape and no signs of heat dammage..
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
354 Posts
Kamakazie2 said:
Well its been 1200 miles and i took the bulb out of the fog light to check for any melting... nothing.. its all in perfect shape and no signs of heat dammage..
I forgot to ask you, I know the bulbs have to be filed down a little for them to fit like a 9005 bulb, but is the same filing done for them to fit in the fog lights? or does other filing need to be done? Thanks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Johnny Vig said:
I forgot to ask you, I know the bulbs have to be filed down a little for them to fit like a 9005 bulb, but is the same filing done for them to fit in the fog lights? or does other filing need to be done? Thanks
Yes the filing is pretty much the same.. if you look at the fog bulb compared to the high beam bulb the prongs are the same but the fittings are slightly off.. so you may need to modify 2 of the fins on the HIR bulb for the fogs to fit right..

what a difference tho..
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,418 Posts
Other bulb options

Welcome, Kamakazie2. :) Thanks for sharing.

Here are some thoughts of my own:

The best fog lamps available, for the price certainly, were originally not intended as fog lamps at all, but rather as high beam headlamps (Non-HID) for the LX bodies. The 100 Watt Xenon SuperWhite (bluish tint) 9005 non-HID headlamp bulb, priced at only $5 ea., from http://autolumination.com is the perfect low-cost upgrade to dress up your ride and brighten the road immediately ahead. And with zero heat or fitment problems - just plug 'n play.

Totally displeased with both the look and the effectiveness of the weak pale yellow stock 42w bulbs, I, some months ago purchased these brilliant white, with a touch of blue, 100 watt flame throwers and installed them in lieu of the sickly stockers.

I've now been using these for over 9,000 miles and many months. 2 1/2 times brighter than the wimpy stockers, they draw frequent comments, all positive.

No heat problems. Period. End of discussion. :wink:
No flashing from oncoming drivers (the fogs are aimed, at the factory, quite low. One must perch the front wheels on a tall speed bump to move the aim point sufficiently high to be objectionable to oncoming traffic.)
Perfect color match for HID head lamps.
Draw a crowd at a M&G.
At $10 a pair, priceless.

There are now probably several dozen forum members who have followed suit. All report, in glowing terms (no pun intended), how pleased they are with them. No heat problems, no failures, no driver flashes noted


For convenience, here is a list of alternate bulbs, most of them LEDs, which can greatly enhance the appearance of your ride:

2005 CHRYSLER 300 (directly applicable to Magnum & Charger where ever locations are common):

Low beam headlamp 9006 (Non-HID only)
High beam headlamp 9005 (Non-HID only)
Parking light 3757ALL = 3157
Front turn signal 3757ALL = 3157
Rear turn signal 3057 = 3157
Tail light 3057 = 3157
Stop light 3057 = 3157
Fog/Driving light 9145 (I *strongly* suggest using the 100 Watt Xenon SuperWhite (bluish tint) 9005 non-HID headlamp bulb here. Superb!! And only $5 ea. Be sure to specify the 100w bulb.
Map light: from http://autolumination.com/festoon.htm, the 9 LED Festoon Bulb, Color: SuperWhite, Size: 39mm, $6.99 ea.
Front under-door courtesy lights are # 562, 44mm rigid loop festoon.
Rear over-door, near the grab handles: # 194 bulb. located here: http://autolumination.com/194.htm
There are many choices for the 194 bulb. I use the multi-led one that has lights going in many directions.

Notes:

1. There are higher powered variations within given bulb numbers, the 3157 turn signal bulbs being one good example. And the new Switchback bulb (currently out of stock) will show white as a park lamp (for a beautiful, monochromatic, look) but amber as turn signal (to be legal, apparently). Even the 9005 headlight bulb comes in wattages less than 100w, so be sure to go with highest wattage/# of LEDs/power in each category for max. visibility/safety.

2. LED Load Equalizers are required in LX bodies when replacing stock turn signal bulbs with LED bulbs. When replacing all four turn signal lamps with LED lamps you need 2 3-ohm equalizers, one on each side, mounted either front or rear. Front seems preferred due to mounting location options. For more info see http://superlumination.com/equalizers.htm

3. Suggest you do not use the stock heat shield/reflector in the map light well when going to the 9-LED Festoon bulb. Heat is a non-issue, and illumination of perfect without them.
*See my install pics here: http://photobucket.com/albums/a243/computermeister/

Not tried by me, but listed as correct by Chris Bacon (Note: His numbers for map light and others were not in agreement with what I have found to be perfect, so verification with other users is suggested):
License plate 168 = 194
Back up light 3057 = 3157
Front sidemarker 2825 = 194
Glove box: 194
Trunk/Cargo area 579 = 921 = 906

New Add: HIR replacements for non-HID headlamps (with thanks to Rockadile):

Another bulb to consider for the headlamp high and low beams are the HIR bulbs that many here are running. The require very minor modification but are supposed to be the best non-HID bulbs available. If interested search the forums for HIR.

Vendors website: http://hirheadlights.com/

Instructions for trimming the bulbs: http://foohbar.com/light_bulb_saga.cfm

Email for questions: [email protected]ng.com

Low Beam (9006): HIR 9012
High Beam (9005): HIR 9011

More info about the bulbs from the vendor:
These Toshiba bulbs are a unique product, the only bulbs available known to use the research technology that General Electric patented in 2000 (patent number 6,087,775). It was GE's goal to create a bulb that produced 75% of the light output of HID headlights at 25% of the cost. GE sells HIR bulbs for commercial lighting and specialized applications, but decided to stay out of the automotive market and licensed this technology to a division of Toshiba. These are Toshiba bulbs, brand new, never used, factory direct. In fact, Toshiba and GE are among the few companies in the world with the expertise to engineer and build this product. These bulbs attain light levels 75% to 110% brighter than stock as a result of an engineering process that deposits multiple, yet almost invisible, layers of semi-reflective coating on the surface of a specially shaped and focused quartz bulb. This coating (a titania/silica, zinc oxide/silica, zirconia/silica, silicon nitride/silica, and titania/magnesium fluoride tantalam/silica multi-layer dielectric, according to the patent) reflects a portion of the infrared energy emitted by the filament back onto the filament, causing it to glow brighter and emit more light from the uncoated forward portion of the bulb. Although the filament gets hotter, the glass does not. IT GENERATES NO MORE HEAT THAN A REGULAR HALOGEN BULB, AND IT DRAWS THE SAME WATTAGE AND AMPERAGE AS THE STOCK 9005 or 9006 BULB IT CAN REPLACE.

My own informal testing showed the GE figures to be conservative. I hooked up a 9006 bulb to a fully charged battery on my bench. On my ancient light meter (a GE model from the 1950s, it's marked in foot-candles, but useful for showing relative light levels), I registered a light level of 20 at a distance of 18" from the bulb. The HIR 9012 bulb recorded a light intensity of 35! That's 75% brighter than stock at the same power draw of 55 watts. The comparison between a 9005 high beam and an HIR 9011 high beam was even more impressive, 30 versus 65 on the meter, for a 116% improvement over stock, and again with the same wattage as stock, 65. Recent tests with several aftermarket bulbs had similar results. Two 9005 blue bulbs, one from a major manufacturer and one a no-name 100 watt unit, both registered 32 on the light meter, less than half the light of the 9011. In fact, the HIR 9012 low beam bulbs were brighter than the aftermarket 9005 high beams!

These bulbs produce white light, rated at 3600 Kelvin color temperature, slightly whiter than the 3250K stock halogen bulbs. They do not attempt to imitate the bluish appearance of HID (High Intensity Discharge, or Xenon) bulbs. The blue halo of original-equipment HIDs comes from the high voltage arc of energy between electrodes, which emits a minor amount of long-wave UV light. Putting a blue coating on a regular bulb actually reduces light output.

They're completely DOT and EC-13 compliant and marked as such, cast into the base along with the wattage, 55W or 65W. Since they match OEM stock wattage, there is never a problem in cars that have computer monitors for the lighting circuits. You won't get false "headlight failure" messages, which can happen with other over-wattage bulbs or with HIDs.

If your headlights are maintained and aligned properly, there should be no glare issues with these lights. You get a lot more light, but it's still aimed where it should be. The position of the filament in the housing is identical to stock, so the reflectors or projectors work exactly as they were designed- JUST MUCH BETTER AND BRIGHTER.

He only sells the two bulbs (9011 & 9012), so I believe you can just specify High or low beams when ordering. He sells through ebay so do a search for HIR 9011 or HIR 9012.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,957 Posts
Great information, Meister. Questions: Do you run your fog lamps every time you run your regular headlights? Also, how long did it take you to install the fog lamps?

Moose.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Meister said:
Welcome, Kamakazie2. :) Thanks for sharing.

Here are some thoughts of my own:

The best fog lamps available, for the price certainly, were originally not intended as fog lamps at all, but rather as high beam headlamps (Non-HID) for the LX bodies. The 100 Watt Xenon SuperWhite (bluish tint) 9005 non-HID headlamp bulb, priced at only $5 ea., from http://autolumination.com is the perfect low-cost upgrade to dress up your ride and brighten the road immediately ahead. And with zero heat or fitment problems - just plug 'n play.

Totally displeased with both the look and the effectiveness of the weak pale yellow stock 42w bulbs, I, some months ago purchased these brilliant white, with a touch of blue, 100 watt flame throwers and installed them in lieu of the sickly stockers.

I've now been using these for over 9,000 miles and many months. 2 1/2 times brighter than the wimpy stockers, they draw frequent comments, all positive.

No heat problems. Period. End of discussion. :wink:
No flashing from oncoming drivers (the fogs are aimed, at the factory, quite low. One must perch the front wheels on a tall speed bump to move the aim point sufficiently high to be objectionable to oncoming traffic.)
Perfect color match for HID head lamps.
Draw a crowd at a M&G.
At $10 a pair, priceless.

There are now probably several dozen forum members who have followed suit. All report, in glowing terms (no pun intended), how pleased they are with them. No heat problems, no failures, no driver flashes noted


For convenience, here is a list of alternate bulbs, most of them LEDs, which can greatly enhance the appearance of your ride:

2005 CHRYSLER 300 (directly applicable to Magnum & Charger where ever locations are common):

Low beam headlamp 9006 (Non-HID only)
High beam headlamp 9005 (Non-HID only)
Parking light 3757ALL = 3157
Front turn signal 3757ALL = 3157
Rear turn signal 3057 = 3157
Tail light 3057 = 3157
Stop light 3057 = 3157
Fog/Driving light 9145 (I *strongly* suggest using the 100 Watt Xenon SuperWhite (bluish tint) 9005 non-HID headlamp bulb here. Superb!! And only $5 ea. Be sure to specify the 100w bulb.
Map light: from http://autolumination.com/festoon.htm, the 9 LED Festoon Bulb, Color: SuperWhite, Size: 39mm, $6.99 ea.
Front under-door courtesy lights are # 562, 44mm rigid loop festoon.
Rear over-door, near the grab handles: # 194 bulb. located here: http://autolumination.com/194.htm
There are many choices for the 194 bulb. I use the multi-led one that has lights going in many directions.

Notes:

1. There are higher powered variations within given bulb numbers, the 3157 turn signal bulbs being one good example. And the new Switchback bulb (currently out of stock) will show white as a park lamp (for a beautiful, monochromatic, look) but amber as turn signal (to be legal, apparently). Even the 9005 headlight bulb comes in wattages less than 100w, so be sure to go with highest wattage/# of LEDs/power in each category for max. visibility/safety.

2. LED Load Equalizers are required in LX bodies when replacing stock turn signal bulbs with LED bulbs. When replacing all four turn signal lamps with LED lamps you need 2 3-ohm equalizers, one on each side, mounted either front or rear. Front seems preferred due to mounting location options. For more info see http://superlumination.com/equalizers.htm

3. Suggest you do not use the stock heat shield/reflector in the map light well when going to the 9-LED Festoon bulb. Heat is a non-issue, and illumination of perfect without them.
*See my install pics here: http://photobucket.com/albums/a243/computermeister/

Not tried by me, but listed as correct by Chris Bacon (Note: His numbers for map light and others were not in agreement with what I have found to be perfect, so verification with other users is suggested):
License plate 168 = 194
Back up light 3057 = 3157
Front sidemarker 2825 = 194
Glove box: 194
Trunk/Cargo area 579 = 921 = 906

New Add: HIR replacements for non-HID headlamps (with thanks to Rockadile):

Another bulb to consider for the headlamp high and low beams are the HIR bulbs that many here are running. The require very minor modification but are supposed to be the best non-HID bulbs available. If interested search the forums for HIR.

Vendors website: http://hirheadlights.com/

Instructions for trimming the bulbs: http://foohbar.com/light_bulb_saga.cfm

Email for questions: [email protected]

Low Beam (9006): HIR 9012
High Beam (9005): HIR 9011

More info about the bulbs from the vendor:
These Toshiba bulbs are a unique product, the only bulbs available known to use the research technology that General Electric patented in 2000 (patent number 6,087,775). It was GE's goal to create a bulb that produced 75% of the light output of HID headlights at 25% of the cost. GE sells HIR bulbs for commercial lighting and specialized applications, but decided to stay out of the automotive market and licensed this technology to a division of Toshiba. These are Toshiba bulbs, brand new, never used, factory direct. In fact, Toshiba and GE are among the few companies in the world with the expertise to engineer and build this product. These bulbs attain light levels 75% to 110% brighter than stock as a result of an engineering process that deposits multiple, yet almost invisible, layers of semi-reflective coating on the surface of a specially shaped and focused quartz bulb. This coating (a titania/silica, zinc oxide/silica, zirconia/silica, silicon nitride/silica, and titania/magnesium fluoride tantalam/silica multi-layer dielectric, according to the patent) reflects a portion of the infrared energy emitted by the filament back onto the filament, causing it to glow brighter and emit more light from the uncoated forward portion of the bulb. Although the filament gets hotter, the glass does not. IT GENERATES NO MORE HEAT THAN A REGULAR HALOGEN BULB, AND IT DRAWS THE SAME WATTAGE AND AMPERAGE AS THE STOCK 9005 or 9006 BULB IT CAN REPLACE.

My own informal testing showed the GE figures to be conservative. I hooked up a 9006 bulb to a fully charged battery on my bench. On my ancient light meter (a GE model from the 1950s, it's marked in foot-candles, but useful for showing relative light levels), I registered a light level of 20 at a distance of 18" from the bulb. The HIR 9012 bulb recorded a light intensity of 35! That's 75% brighter than stock at the same power draw of 55 watts. The comparison between a 9005 high beam and an HIR 9011 high beam was even more impressive, 30 versus 65 on the meter, for a 116% improvement over stock, and again with the same wattage as stock, 65. Recent tests with several aftermarket bulbs had similar results. Two 9005 blue bulbs, one from a major manufacturer and one a no-name 100 watt unit, both registered 32 on the light meter, less than half the light of the 9011. In fact, the HIR 9012 low beam bulbs were brighter than the aftermarket 9005 high beams!

These bulbs produce white light, rated at 3600 Kelvin color temperature, slightly whiter than the 3250K stock halogen bulbs. They do not attempt to imitate the bluish appearance of HID (High Intensity Discharge, or Xenon) bulbs. The blue halo of original-equipment HIDs comes from the high voltage arc of energy between electrodes, which emits a minor amount of long-wave UV light. Putting a blue coating on a regular bulb actually reduces light output.

They're completely DOT and EC-13 compliant and marked as such, cast into the base along with the wattage, 55W or 65W. Since they match OEM stock wattage, there is never a problem in cars that have computer monitors for the lighting circuits. You won't get false "headlight failure" messages, which can happen with other over-wattage bulbs or with HIDs.

If your headlights are maintained and aligned properly, there should be no glare issues with these lights. You get a lot more light, but it's still aimed where it should be. The position of the filament in the housing is identical to stock, so the reflectors or projectors work exactly as they were designed- JUST MUCH BETTER AND BRIGHTER.

He only sells the two bulbs (9011 & 9012), so I believe you can just specify High or low beams when ordering. He sells through ebay so do a search for HIR 9011 or HIR 9012.

Thanks for the info Meister! I have been using autolumination leds for a while.. a good company that stands by their product.. i had a few issues a couple of years back and they promptly replaced my defective units.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,418 Posts
Moose said:
Great information, Meister. Questions: Do you run your fog lamps every time you run your regular headlights? Also, how long did it take you to install the fog lamps?

Moose.
I do indeed, Moose. Anytime the engine is running I ensure that I've got at least 4, sometimes 6, lights blazing up front.

As far as install time goes, using floor jack & jack stands, it took all of 15 minutes, including verifying wiring harness remained cool, both sides, despite the very healthy bump in wattage.

See pics of the fogs here: http://photobucket.com/albums/a243/computermeister/

Much of the reason for the quick swap time is the fact that I run with no lower engine shroud.

The lower shroud is in the way of everything and is a huge contributor to engine heat soak, as is the upper engine shroud, but to a lesser degree, by greatly increasing underhood temperatures. Anyone living in a southern tier state has no compelling reason to keep it on.

If you do decide to permanently remove your lower shroud you'll need to follow my instructions below, or come up with something on your own which serves the same purpose - keeping the fender well liners off of the tires at or just south of the speed limiter: http://www.300cforums.com/forums/pe...n-lower-engine-shroud-removed.html#post189107
 
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
Top