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If you going with the mopar remote start and comfortable with a pair of wire cutters and soldering Iron I say go with it. It is mostly plug and play except 4 wires about. When I did my wife's pacifica I found the directions very clear with pictures. It took about 90 minutes to finish with programming.
 

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300MAG said:
If you going with the mopar remote start and comfortable with a pair of wire cutters and soldering Iron I say go with it....
What he said.

I have installed two (2005 300C & 2005 PT Cruiser GT). With both, the hardest part was routing wires through the firewall: On your 300C, there are at least three possibilities; I ended up running the wire through the grommet/sleeve that routes the hood release cable through the firewall. From the inside, insert a thin wire (like a small diameter clothes hanger) along side the cable. It would help to have a second person holding the cable straight from inside the engine compartment: I did it myself and the wire didn't quite make it through the sleeve, it poked a hole in the side a couple of inches from the firewall. After the wire is through, tape one of your wires to the hanger and pull it through. Get rid of the hanger and use the sucessfully routed wire to pull the other wires through.

While you are pulling wires, pull one extra for future use. I did not do this and could kick myself. Future mods requiring wires (such as the MDS light) would be much easier and, if you never need it, the extra wire will not hurt.

Whatever you do, do not route the wires between one of the groumets and the firewall: over time, the wire's insulation be cut and the wire ground to the firewall. You have to go through the center of the groumet.

Another tip: be carefull snapping the DNA into the main module. One of these has a BUNCH of male spades that mate with female receptacles on the other part. When I did my 300C, no problem. When I did my PT, it didn't look right when it snapped together....I took it apart to discover I had bent two of the spades....it took over an hour to fix the damage....I was getting ready to order a replacement when I finally got it together.

In the progamming, I picked the 15 minute run time (default is 10). Of course, that's a matter of choice.

One last thing: the horn beeping all the time is a real pain (it beeps two times before cranking and one time after cranking). On both of mine, I installed a switch to control the horn.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
300MAG said:
If you going with the mopar remote start and comfortable with a pair of wire cutters and soldering Iron I say go with it. It is mostly plug and play except 4 wires about. When I did my wife's pacifica I found the directions very clear with pictures. It took about 90 minutes to finish with programming.
WOW--I never thought there would be a need for splicing, I would think it would all be plug-in?
Directions are clear?
Once this unit is in, is there any need to bring to dealer for flashing or programming?
I installed the fog light kit, and when I was done, the directions said to bring it in to the dealer for a flash! Another way of getting your buck!
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
frank29 said:
What he said.

I have installed two (2005 300C & 2005 PT Cruiser GT). With both, the hardest part was routing wires through the firewall: On your 300C, there are at least three possibilities; I ended up running the wire through the grommet/sleeve that routes the hood release cable through the firewall. From the inside, insert a thin wire (like a small diameter clothes hanger) along side the cable. It would help to have a second person holding the cable straight from inside the engine compartment: I did it myself and the wire didn't quite make it through the sleeve, it poked a hole in the side a couple of inches from the firewall. After the wire is through, tape one of your wires to the hanger and pull it through. Get rid of the hanger and use the sucessfully routed wire to pull the other wires through.

While you are pulling wires, pull one extra for future use. I did not do this and could kick myself. Future mods requiring wires (such as the MDS light) would be much easier and, if you never need it, the extra wire will not hurt.

Whatever you do, do not route the wires between one of the groumets and the firewall: over time, the wire's insulation be cut and the wire ground to the firewall. You have to go through the center of the groumet.

Another tip: be carefull snapping the DNA into the main module. One of these has a BUNCH of male spades that mate with female receptacles on the other part. When I did my 300C, no problem. When I did my PT, it didn't look right when it snapped together....I took it apart to discover I had bent two of the spades....it took over an hour to fix the damage....I was getting ready to order a replacement when I finally got it together.

In the progamming, I picked the 15 minute run time (default is 10). Of course, that's a matter of choice.

One last thing: the horn beeping all the time is a real pain (it beeps two times before cranking and one time after cranking). On both of mine, I installed a switch to control the horn.
Frank-this is great info, Thanks

Looks like I need to buy TWO pieces?
The Remote Wiring kit and the Remote itself?
What is this "SKREEM Module" that I MIGHT need?
 

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hmmm...

I got the Mopar remote start kit installed on my wife's 300C at the dealer and it made the car run funny (rough) and it threw a code. Of course I don't remember which one though.
They played with it for 2 days and could not get it to run correctly so I told them to pull it. Once it was removed the car ran just fine.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
UnLTDRubicon said:
I got the Mopar remote start kit installed on my wife's 300C at the dealer and it made the car run funny (rough) and it threw a code. Of course I don't remember which one though.
They played with it for 2 days and could not get it to run correctly so I told them to pull it. Once it was removed the car ran just fine.
Well now............thats reasurring!!!! :nervous: :nervous: :nervous:
 

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UnLTDRubicon said:
I got the Mopar remote start kit installed on my wife's 300C at the dealer and it made the car run funny (rough)........................Once it was removed the car ran just fine.
That's wierd. I wonder if they somehow screwed something up; like, for example, maybe they bent some spades like I mentioned in an earlier posting in this thread or maybe the wire spliced to the coil was somehow messed up (wrong wire or whatever).

I definetly understand you being gun shy with such an experience. However, based on numerous succesful installations documented on this forum and two other forums I frequent, I would still recommend the Chrysler system.
 

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RamVett said:
......Looks like I need to buy TWO pieces?
The Remote Wiring kit and the Remote itself?....
Buy the remote and the wiring kit and you have everything you need....minus a soldering iron and basic tools (the installation directions list what you need).

Allow a whole day for the installation and be glad if you're done in 6 hours. Dealers allow two hours because they've done it before......if you had twin 300s, your second one would be done quickly.

ON EDIT: it helps to have the CD service manual on hand. I used it for instructions in snapping off the driver's side pillar trim (to route the antenna wire), verifying the correct coil wire, and (on this one I maybe be confused with my PT Cruiser) directions to remove the brake switch (it would have been hard to solder a connection with the switch in place).

Make sure you read the installation directions numerous times before starting the installation. After the first reading, you will feel overwhelmed. After the fourth or fifth reading, you will feel empowered. END EDIT


RamVett said:
.....What is this "SKREEM Module" that I MIGHT need?
Everything you need is in the two parts mentioned above. Some (most?, all?) aftermarket remotes require you to "bury" a key. The Chrysler remote allows the engine to run without the key's chip being extremly near the ingition switch.
 

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frank29 said:
That's wierd. I wonder if they somehow screwed something up; like, for example, maybe they bent some spades like I mentioned in an earlier posting in this thread or maybe the wire spliced to the coil was somehow messed up (wrong wire or whatever).

I definetly understand you being gun shy with such an experience. However, based on numerous succesful installations documented on this forum and two other forums I frequent, I would still recommend the Chrysler system.
Its too bad cuz I really wanted that remote start too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
300MAG said:
If you going with the mopar remote start and comfortable with a pair of wire cutters and soldering Iron I say go with it. It is mostly plug and play except 4 wires about. When I did my wife's pacifica I found the directions very clear with pictures. It took about 90 minutes to finish with programming.
MAG-
when using the mopar remote starter, do I need an extra key? some of these after market systems require an original key with chip.
 

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Python Remote starter

Hello guys
I just got my fully loaded HEMI and only option I want to install in cold New Jersey is remote start.
Dealer quoted $595 that is ridiculous and they also use subcontractor (probably making 20-30%)
Few shops quoted between $270-$400 for Python remote starter...
I am planning to go with $270 one since this is reputable shop in the area, I used to do tires there for my BMW (I traded 525i to HEMI and very happy) LOL

Does anyone have any good/bad experience with Python?
I had herd horror stories about aftermarket units burning computer and problems with Mopar original parts as well.
I would love to have remote starter but do not want to damage the car or/and void warranty.
The shop told me that they do a harness, do not cut any wires and tap In into original alarm.
I hope it is true...

Any advise would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks in advance!
Russ
 
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