The Multi Displacement System selectively deactivates cylinders 1,4,6 and 7 to improve fuel economy. It has two modes of operation:
- 8 cylinders for acceleration and heavy loads
- 4 cylinders for cruising and city traffic
The main components of the MDS are:
- Unique MDS camshaft
- Deactivating roller tappets
- 4 control valve/solenoids
-control valve/solenoid wiring harness
- oil temp sensor
OPERATION
Cylinder Deactivation:
Trap an exhaust charge
Normal combustion event
Don't open exhaust valve
Don't open intake valve
Piston is an air spring
Cylinders deactivated in firing sequence
Cylinder Reactivation:
Empty the cylinder
Open exhaust valve
Open intake valve
Normal combustion event
Cylinders reactivated in firing sequence
It has the following detectable issues:
-Solenoid circuit
-Failure to deactivate a cylinder(s)
-Failure to reactivate a cylinder(s)
-LOW oil pressure
If it doesn't activate/deactivate, it could be: a) low oil pressure; b) bad oil temp sensor; c) malfunctioning solenoid; or d) malfunctioning tappet.
Basically, you've put in a thicker oil, so low oil pressure won't be an issue. I run 0w30 synthetic in mine, and the "0" is only due to winter driving up here. The "30" between yours and mine is the same, and my MDS works fine. I don't think you'll have any trouble with it. You may have a hard time circulating the oil when the temperature drops to below -10 celsius (about 14 farenheit) which will result in accelerated engine wear.
Oh, and BTW, the manuals call for 5w20, not 10w20 as you said. You could use 0w20 or 5w20 (if you want to stay with the manual), or move up to 0w30 or 5w30 synthetic (which has better flow characteristics over conventional dino oil.......please ChuckKent......don't get that argument started again!.........). 10w30 is just a heavier weight (re: higher viscocity) at cold temps, hence the accelerated engine wear at cold temperatures.