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So it all started when my boss told me his car keeps overheating and asked my opinion, which was simple, the thermostat was faulty. After consulting with another backyard mechanic he chose to ignore my diagnosis and listen the the other party that told him it was fine and just had a intermittent cooling problem. About a week later it started overheating again, but this time because the radiator fluid kept disappearing. And with that symptom paired with the with moisture and tan froth in the reservoir I determined that the head gasket had to be change. After the successful repair it quit overheating and seemed all was fine on the cooling end. But the ETC was acting weird so it went into limp mode. After driving for approximately 15/20 miles of driving the temp on the gauge started to climb and I switched to the digital reading gauge and it showed fine (215* F). I then pulled to a parking lot where i opened the hood and by the time i removed the Hemi Cover it stalled. I tried to start it back and it reved up to 2000 rpm then stalled again, I tried to start it again, it turned over with no fire for about 1/2 revolutions then stopped with a clank. Now when I turn the key it just clicks one time. So far with no luck i've tried jump starting it, checked all terminal connectors, and even rocking it back and fourth in park. There are no fluids or any moisture under it. And I don't think its the starter because it sounds like the armature ejects against the flywheel but just dosent turn. Since the head gasket repair it has become my car and only vehicle at the moment, So if you have any advice or input please help.
 

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Unfortunately for you, I think you have dropped a valve seat. A series of overheat sequences will have done the trick to get the seat to loosen up and drop out.
Pull the plugs and see if you have any crushed tips. If not, put a scope in the plug holes and look around for pieces of valve seat or piston land bits.
What is the manufacturing date of the car? (drivers door)
 

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So it all started when my boss told me his car keeps overheating and asked my opinion, which was simple, the thermostat was faulty. After consulting with another backyard mechanic he chose to ignore my diagnosis and listen the the other party that told him it was fine and just had a intermittent cooling problem. About a week later it started overheating again, but this time because the radiator fluid kept disappearing. And with that symptom paired with the with moisture and tan froth in the reservoir I determined that the head gasket had to be change. After the successful repair it quit overheating and seemed all was fine on the cooling end. But the ETC was acting weird so it went into limp mode. After driving for approximately 15/20 miles of driving the temp on the gauge started to climb and I switched to the digital reading gauge and it showed fine (215* F). I then pulled to a parking lot where i opened the hood and by the time i removed the Hemi Cover it stalled. I tried to start it back and it reved up to 2000 rpm then stalled again, I tried to start it again, it turned over with no fire for about 1/2 revolutions then stopped with a clank. Now when I turn the key it just clicks one time. So far with no luck i've tried jump starting it, checked all terminal connectors, and even rocking it back and fourth in park. There are no fluids or any moisture under it. And I don't think its the starter because it sounds like the armature ejects against the flywheel but just dosent turn. Since the head gasket repair it has become my car and only vehicle at the moment, So if you have any advice or input please help.
an overheated engine can raise temperatures on the manifold extremely high,thus causing your starter to fry being close to the manifold, or too many crank turns can drain battery and cause starter problems.
 

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If the starter is close to the exhaust manifold you can fry the starter at extreme temperatures,being the exhaust manifold can almost glow at overheating temperatures,or cranking too many consecutive times can wear down the battery causing the starter bendix to kick out and not turn (not enough cranking amps) thereafter clicking from the relay later,only recharge battery if that doesnt work,do a load test on the battery if fail replace it or can be the starter .:nerd:
 

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If the starter is close to the exhaust manifold you can fry the starter at extreme temperatures,being the exhaust manifold can almost glow at overheating temperatures,or cranking too many consecutive times can wear down the battery causing the starter bendix to kick out and not turn (not enough cranking amps) thereafter clicking from the relay later,only recharge battery if that doesnt work,do a load test on the battery if fail replace it or can be the starter .:nerd:
The only way the manifolds are glowing is if egt's are sky high, boosted applications with inadequate or restrictive headers can suffer these conditions of tracked or on a long hard pull... to get them hot enough to cause starter damage based on an overheating motor due to a stuck thermostat couldn't happen bud. The heads would warp waaay before then and for sure a valve seat (which I'd suspect was the op's issue) would drop. My car is boosted, runs egts far higher than an overheating car could dream of putting out and not one issue with starters or wiring. Good thought, but not going to happen on a normally aspirated Hemi.

When the op said stopping with a clank... that's a bad clue!
 
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