If it’s quiet at idle just do your diligence with the rest. I ran 0-30 Amsoil in all my 5.7’s with never a hiccup. Electronics/availability seems to be more of a concern.
Should I buy? High mileage '06 5.7L
New here, let me know if I'm in the wrong place.
I've been keeping an eye out for the right ride on Marketplace, and this one caught my eye. 2006 in blue, 5.7L with not 150, not 200, but nearly 300k miles. Seller claims it worked with zero issues for three years. It has a misfire, needs coils. Runs very rough, but enough to get it onto a trailer.
It looks very clean inside and out despite its age, with the only other photographed flaws being the clear coat on the hood and a delaminated driver mirror.
The seller is asking $1500 but I would much prefer $1000, which is clunker territory. I'm prepared to do heavy maintenance and looking at top fluids to replace with. But from what I've ready, it having this many miles means it was well-maintained.
Thoughts? Prayers?
I've been keeping an eye out for the right ride on Marketplace, and this one caught my eye. 2006 in blue, 5.7L with not 150, not 200, but nearly 300k miles. Seller claims it worked with zero issues for three years. It has a misfire, needs coils. Runs very rough, but enough to get it onto a trailer.
It looks very clean inside and out despite its age, with the only other photographed flaws being the clear coat on the hood and a delaminated driver mirror.
The seller is asking $1500 but I would much prefer $1000, which is clunker territory. I'm prepared to do heavy maintenance and looking at top fluids to replace with. But from what I've ready, it having this many miles means it was well-maintained.
Thoughts? Prayers?
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
Oh the misfire is very present at idle haha. Man. is 5-40 I believe, and it states only that should be used due to MSD. Aftermarket radio if that matters.If it’s quiet at idle just do your diligence with the rest. I ran 0-30 Amsoil in all my 5.7’s with never a hiccup. Electronics/availability seems to be more of a concern.
5-20 is recommended. Too thin. 0-30 has never affected the MSD. Get it scanned/scoped so you know what you are getting.
Gotcha, that one. Just guidance. Scan states misfire. Scans like a misfire, sounds like a misfire...5-20 is recommended. Too thin. 0-30 has never affected the MSD. Get it scanned/scoped so you know what you are getting.
I'm not afraid of work, my only concern is all of those miles.
Move the coils around to confirm. Maybe borrow a know good used one? Keep us posted on your adventure. If you buy it, change the Nag-5 fluid and its filter too.
Since there is a non-zero chance something else is causing the misfire (scored cylinder, is it?) I was just thinking buying a set of coils and replace there, then see what happens.Move the coils around to confirm. Maybe borrow a know good used one? Keep us posted on your adventure. If you buy it, change the Nag-5 fluid and its filter too.
Will do, planned on all new fluids if it is to keep racking up the odo. The mileage isn't enough of a turnoff?
I’m afraid to buy a Hellcat with 400 miles on it. I only buy new cars now. Others here can help more than me. Good luck and keep us posted.
Misfire might be mechanical. Hemi 5.7 engines look cheap and easy to obtain in the US so I wouldn't fret over the engine. A rebuild is straightforward and parts can be had for cheap, the engine is simple to remove if you pull the heads first. When you get it, do a compression test when you have the coil packs off it, that will tell you whether you need to tear it down.
It's the rest of the car where the spending / difficulty will get you. Likely the front suspension will be shot. It's easy to get parts and they aren't expensive individually but it adds up fast. Two lower suspension arms, one upper arm, ball join in one of the lower arms and swaybar bushes. Some of them will not want to come out and require professional intervention.
The electrics are not as bad as some cars - the underhood wiring can cop a beating from the heat but its pretty easy to trace/repair bad wires. Failures in the cabin could get tricky and make sure you get at least 1 good working key.
Seat leather can be replaced affordably if you are handy and patient.
Make sure there is no major crash damage and if there is, find another one. I bought a bad 2006 300C and it's one of the easiest cars to work on I have owned (other than the suspension fighting me). All the usual old car problems didn't miss the 300C so be prepared to do the usual old car stuff (radiators, water pumps, hoses etc)
It's the rest of the car where the spending / difficulty will get you. Likely the front suspension will be shot. It's easy to get parts and they aren't expensive individually but it adds up fast. Two lower suspension arms, one upper arm, ball join in one of the lower arms and swaybar bushes. Some of them will not want to come out and require professional intervention.
The electrics are not as bad as some cars - the underhood wiring can cop a beating from the heat but its pretty easy to trace/repair bad wires. Failures in the cabin could get tricky and make sure you get at least 1 good working key.
Seat leather can be replaced affordably if you are handy and patient.
Make sure there is no major crash damage and if there is, find another one. I bought a bad 2006 300C and it's one of the easiest cars to work on I have owned (other than the suspension fighting me). All the usual old car problems didn't miss the 300C so be prepared to do the usual old car stuff (radiators, water pumps, hoses etc)
Thanks for the response. Seller stated its coils. I presume diagnosed by a shop considering it was flat bedded at one point. I presume he had it towed when it started doing that in order to prevent any potential engine damage. Pick n pull would be the only cheap way, these engines are at least $2K. Compression test is a grand idea. I know the engine is functional, but that'd give an idea how far along it is.Misfire might be mechanical. Hemi 5.7 engines look cheap and easy to obtain in the US so I wouldn't fret over the engine. A rebuild is straightforward and parts can be had for cheap, the engine is simple to remove if you pull the heads first. When you get it, do a compression test when you have the coil packs off it, that will tell you whether you need to tear it down.
It's the rest of the car where the spending / difficulty will get you. Likely the front suspension will be shot. It's easy to get parts and they aren't expensive individually but it adds up fast. Two lower suspension arms, one upper arm, ball join in one of the lower arms and swaybar bushes. Some of them will not want to come out and require professional intervention.
The electrics are not as bad as some cars - the underhood wiring can cop a beating from the heat but its pretty easy to trace/repair bad wires. Failures in the cabin could get tricky and make sure you get at least 1 good working key.
Seat leather can be replaced affordably if you are handy and patient.
Make sure there is no major crash damage and if there is, find another one. I bought a bad 2006 300C and it's one of the easiest cars to work on I have owned (other than the suspension fighting me). All the usual old car problems didn't miss the 300C so be prepared to do the usual old car stuff (radiators, water pumps, hoses etc)
Not sure but I'll keep it in mind. The engine has to be well-maintained in recent history, so I can hope everything else has been, too.
Good to know. I know there's 1+ working key since it starts and drives.
Looks clean. I don't mind spending time on something anyway.
No accidents, verified via VIN. Clean body all around. And just did a Jeep water pump earlier this month haha.
Figured I'd let you guys know, he was willing to do $1k when I offered but there was someone ahead of me and they took it. The search continues... Still appreciate the words folks.
1 - 11 of 11 Posts
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