If it’s quiet at idle just do your diligence with the rest. I ran 0-30 Amsoil in all my 5.7’s with never a hiccup. Electronics/availability seems to be more of a concern.
Oh the misfire is very present at idle haha. Man. is 5-40 I believe, and it states only that should be used due to MSD. Aftermarket radio if that matters.If it’s quiet at idle just do your diligence with the rest. I ran 0-30 Amsoil in all my 5.7’s with never a hiccup. Electronics/availability seems to be more of a concern.
Gotcha, that one. Just guidance. Scan states misfire. Scans like a misfire, sounds like a misfire...5-20 is recommended. Too thin. 0-30 has never affected the MSD. Get it scanned/scoped so you know what you are getting.
Since there is a non-zero chance something else is causing the misfire (scored cylinder, is it?) I was just thinking buying a set of coils and replace there, then see what happens.Move the coils around to confirm. Maybe borrow a know good used one? Keep us posted on your adventure. If you buy it, change the Nag-5 fluid and its filter too.
Thanks for the response. Seller stated its coils. I presume diagnosed by a shop considering it was flat bedded at one point. I presume he had it towed when it started doing that in order to prevent any potential engine damage. Pick n pull would be the only cheap way, these engines are at least $2K. Compression test is a grand idea. I know the engine is functional, but that'd give an idea how far along it is.Misfire might be mechanical. Hemi 5.7 engines look cheap and easy to obtain in the US so I wouldn't fret over the engine. A rebuild is straightforward and parts can be had for cheap, the engine is simple to remove if you pull the heads first. When you get it, do a compression test when you have the coil packs off it, that will tell you whether you need to tear it down.
It's the rest of the car where the spending / difficulty will get you. Likely the front suspension will be shot. It's easy to get parts and they aren't expensive individually but it adds up fast. Two lower suspension arms, one upper arm, ball join in one of the lower arms and swaybar bushes. Some of them will not want to come out and require professional intervention.
The electrics are not as bad as some cars - the underhood wiring can cop a beating from the heat but its pretty easy to trace/repair bad wires. Failures in the cabin could get tricky and make sure you get at least 1 good working key.
Seat leather can be replaced affordably if you are handy and patient.
Make sure there is no major crash damage and if there is, find another one. I bought a bad 2006 300C and it's one of the easiest cars to work on I have owned (other than the suspension fighting me). All the usual old car problems didn't miss the 300C so be prepared to do the usual old car stuff (radiators, water pumps, hoses etc)