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What's up everyone. I purchased a 2006 300c rwd. I put 22x9.5 wheels on it. The tires are 265/35's. Once I get above 60mph the steering wheel shakes. It's not bad but it is annoying. I went back to the place I bought the wheels from and they told me I needed to go to the dealership and have them adjust my computer to reflect that I am running 22 inch wheels. I have never head of such a solution, but I tried it. The dealership did not have a clue. So with that I had the wheels balance at another tire shop. They said that the balance was off by 8 oz on each wheel. So they balanced them again and I am still having the same issue. So I was wondering if anyone has had this problem and what did you do to correct it.
 

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i would not accept this form the wheel shop.....either you have a bad tire wheel or someone dosent know how to balance a large wheel. if they cant resolve this you need to get refunded and go somewhere eles
 

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mexi said:
i would not accept this form the wheel shop.....either you have a bad tire wheel or someone dosent know how to balance a large wheel. if they cant resolve this you need to get refunded and go somewhere eles
Thanks mexi I appreciate that reply. I will be going by that wheels shop today and see what they are going to do.
 

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Did the shop supply you with Hub Centric Rings? This can usually help a lot with vibration issues. Also did you buy wheels with a 5-115 bolt pattern or are they 5-114.3, this can make an issue some times.
BTW 8oz is fricken HUGE to be off in the balance. I would suggest this company has no idea what they are doing. Maybe you should mention their name, so other members do not have to go through these issues.
 

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Did the shop supply you with Hub Centric Rings? This can usually help a lot with vibration issues. Also did you buy wheels with a 5-115 bolt pattern or are they 5-114.3, this can make an issue some times.
BTW 8oz is fricken HUGE to be off in the balance. I would suggest this company has no idea what they are doing. Maybe you should mention their name, so other members do not have to go through these issues.
I am not sure of the bolt pattern 300LTD but I will check on this. I called the company that makes the wheel and they said that the hub centric rings would work, so I am just waiting on them to come in. As far as the name of the place I bought the wheels is called King of Tire in Dallas,TX. Now let me say this, for the price that I got for the wheels and tires, I can not complain. You get a great price but the customer service is terrible. I guess I should have paid a little more and bought the wheels form somewhere else to make sure that I get the type of service that I want. Just another lesson learned. Thanks for the reply 300LTD. I will post again once I get the hub rings and let you all know how things turned out.
 

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silver3c your bolt pattern is 5-115 had a slight shimmy with 20's on my awd 300c. 48-53 mph had all my wheels road force balanced shimmy gone. they also said make sure the clips that hold the rotors on are taken off since the new wheels dont have slots like oe wheels. the clips are put on just for assembly.
 

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have them check the "toe in"...
the SRT's have a problem that DCX considers within parameters...
it might be a problem on the 300C's as well...
although the recommendations above are pretty good as well...
Good Luck!
Sincerely,
 

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Discussion Starter #9
cirob said:
silver3c your bolt pattern is 5-115 had a slight shimmy with 20's on my awd 300c. 48-53 mph had all my wheels road force balanced shimmy gone. they also said make sure the clips that hold the rotors on are taken off since the new wheels dont have slots like oe wheels. the clips are put on just for assembly.
Thanks for the information cirob. That was my next move. I am going to Discount Tire and have them use the Road Force Balacing machine. I hope that will work for me.
 

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GEN XER said:
What are hub centric rings and what is road force balancing. I have 20's and a shimmy at 60 this may work for me as well.
What's up GEN XER. My understanding of hub rings is this, it a metal or plastic ring that is used to center the wheel on the hub. The plus size wheels have a larger center bore than our factory wheels. So even when you put your wheels on and bolt them up, somehow they may not be centered on the hub. So the hub rings fill up the space between the hub and the center bore of your new wheels to make sure they are centered.

Road force balancing is a balancing machine that uses a drum that puts pressure on your wheel and tire that simulates road conditions. Normally when you wheels are balanced they use a machine that just spins the wheel and tires without any pressure. But the road force machine gives you a better balance because its more realistic. That's what I gather from what I read on this. I went to www.thetirerack.com. They have some great info.

I hope this helps.
 

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That is true. Here is some more info on Hub Centric Rings.

Hub centric rings are manufactured so that when they are installed on a vehicle, the wheels are located directly off of the centre flange of the brake drum or rotor. This is done to insure that the outer beads of the wheel are concentric with the wheel bearings. The result is a much truer, better balanced tire/wheel assembly. This is very important with modern high tech suspension systems.





silver3c said:
What's up GEN XER. My understanding of hub rings is this, it a metal or plastic ring that is used to center the wheel on the hub. The plus size wheels have a larger center bore than our factory wheels. So even when you put your wheels on and bolt them up, somehow they may not be centered on the hub. So the hub rings fill up the space between the hub and the center bore of your new wheels to make sure they are centered.

Road force balancing is a balancing machine that uses a drum that puts pressure on your wheel and tire that simulates road conditions. Normally when you wheels are balanced they use a machine that just spins the wheel and tires without any pressure. But the road force machine gives you a better balance because its more realistic. That's what I gather from what I read on this. I went to www.thetirerack.com. They have some great info.

I hope this helps.
 

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Im telling you right now, I went through this BS for 2 months. Went through 2 different sets of rims, 3 different types of tires, had them true ride balanced 3 times, ordered hub centric rings..... I did it all and this gets expensive and very frustrating. It IS the bolt pattern, I had 114.3 and you need 115. I switched rims to the TIS 03 they are made for the 300 and it now rides like a dream. my suggestion....get your money back, spend a little more and opt for the TIS rims. Dont go through the same hoops like I did.
 

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pmpn8ez said:
Im telling you right now, I went through this BS for 2 months. Went through 2 different sets of rims, 3 different types of tires, had them true ride balanced 3 times, ordered hub centric rings..... I did it all and this gets expensive and very frustrating. It IS the bolt pattern, I had 114.3 and you need 115. I switched rims to the TIS 03 they are made for the 300 and it now rides like a dream. my suggestion....get your money back, spend a little more and opt for the TIS rims. Dont go through the same hoops like I did.
I have TIS 07's, they are the right bolt pattern. I dont think the shop used the rings. I have had them balanced, aligned and I check the PSI religously and I have come to the conclusion that it has to be the rings. I will have them installed and if that does not do it I will have them road forced balanced and see if that does it.
 

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I had this problem with my TIS wheels, and it turned out it was just the little clips that sit around the lug bolts against the rotors.

They are kind of lock washer type things...

Pull all of them off with a needle nose pliers.

That's all it took to fix my wobble.

Good luck!!!
 

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DJJT said:
I had this problem with my TIS wheels, and it turned out it was just the little clips that sit around the lug bolts against the rotors.

They are kind of lock washer type things...

Pull all of them off with a needle nose pliers.

That's all it took to fix my wobble.

Good luck!!!
I remember those being removed, because I asked the tire guy if he was removing something I needed and he said I wanted these removed so the tires wouldnt wobble.
 

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It's not always the case with running 5-114.3. I run those with no vibration issues at all. I think sometimes it just depends on the wheel.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
pmpn8ez said:
Im telling you right now, I went through this BS for 2 months. Went through 2 different sets of rims, 3 different types of tires, had them true ride balanced 3 times, ordered hub centric rings..... I did it all and this gets expensive and very frustrating. It IS the bolt pattern, I had 114.3 and you need 115. I switched rims to the TIS 03 they are made for the 300 and it now rides like a dream. my suggestion....get your money back, spend a little more and opt for the TIS rims. Dont go through the same hoops like I did.
Thanks pmpn8ez. I really appreciate your suggestion. I had the wheels road force balanced yesterday and the sterring wheel is still shaking. The hub rings have not come it yet, but I am not going to wait for them to come in, I am going to have my wheels checked out to see what the bolt pattern is. If it is not the correct bolt pattern then it is time for some new wheels.
 

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GEN XER said:
I am going tomorrow to have the shop check the wheels. I will report back when all is said and done.
Man...it really seems like there's alot of common problems with wheel shops these days. Especially with the 300's.

My friend had the same shimmy problem. Turns out that the shop didn't use any hubcentric rings on any of the wheels. The center bore of the wheel was 2mm larger than the hub on the car. You would think that even the most basic wheel and tire store should know that this would cause vibration.
 
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