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Discussion Starter #1
Ok guys, here's the objective: 300C with SGII - Keep the steering wheel controls and uconnect working but add aftermarket amps and speakers. Is this possible? My first mystery is where to tap the signal from the factory deck... before the amp or after the amp? In Rogue's difinitive Audio FAQ, he recommends tapping the signal before the amp for cleaner sound but I'm wondering if that flippin thing is hooked in to the steering wheel controls and Uconnect since it controls fade and other functions. Has anyone done this? I am assuming that I have to keep the factory deck to accomplish this.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks 300Con. I will keep the factory deck. The link to the other thread was interesting but was really about using the factory amp. I do not want to use the factory amp. Sorry if I wasn't clear before. Put another way, how can I keep my steering wheel controls and uconnect but add aftermarket amps and speakers? Thanks!
 

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Hey Guy,

You can use your factory radio and reuse the steering will controls but U connect audio will not work. You may have to add a computer speaker to it to make it work. U connect uses the factory amp for audio. Steering wheels controls are used with the radio. To add amps to the 300c, remove the factory amp left side of steering column, use a good high low level adapter or and signal processor like the Audio Control EQ it has high low level inputs and a 9 volt output. This cleans up the factory radio outputs a bit and that is Very important. Use quality RCA's and Quality Amplifiers with more power than you will need. I like a 75x4 watt CEA certified amp on the doors and deck lid. a 50x2 on the dash and 200 wattx2 on 2 subs. This is a killer system that will sound awesome. If set up correctly you will have no engime noise and high headroom. Plenty of reserve power and thats what will make is sounds awesome.
 

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kmoney said:
Hey Guy,

You can use your factory radio and reuse the steering will controls ...... Plenty of reserve power and thats what will make is sounds awesome.
can you come up with some photos or a how too step by step instruction for some of us who arnt goorus at car audio. because this is exactly what i was looking for but was told by stereo shop employees that it couldnt be done. I didnt beleave them.:notworthy
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Kmoney. Awesome info. Exactly what I was looking for! Two additional questions:

1) Which Audio Control EQ are you referencing (found a bazillion on the web)?
2) I hadn't planned on using the dash speakers after upgrading. Any thoughts on how to keep those dedicated for Uconnect? Does that even make sense?

Thanks again!
 

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djjasond said:
Kmoney. Awesome info. Exactly what I was looking for! Two additional questions:

1) Which Audio Control EQ are you referencing (found a bazillion on the web)?
2) I hadn't planned on using the dash speakers after upgrading. Any thoughts on how to keep those dedicated for Uconnect? Does that even make sense?

Thanks again!
http://mobileaudiocontrol.com/Article_detail.asp?id=224&Section_Id=184


the LC6 is the module you need.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Man you guys are incredible. I'm getting more answers from this forum in 24 hours than I've been able to in weeks elsewhere. It's great news to hear that the steering wheel controls are tied into the factory deck, so if you keep the factory deck and add aftermarket amps and speakers down stream you still get the steering wheel controls.

The audio control LC6 looks like an awesome line level converter. I have had poor results from the cheapo $20 ones so this is great news for me. One thing it boasts is the ability to be placed after the factory amplifier. This makes me think about potential solutions to keep UConnect.

1) Which speakers does UConnect utilize?
2) If it uses the dash speakers (SGII), you could potentially add the LC6 after the factory amp and leave the dash speakers connected to the factory amp for uconnect purposes but amplify the rest of the speakers with aftermarket amps. Obviously you would lose the stereo mute function. What do you guys think?
 

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Hey guy's

I was referring to the Three.1 or four.1 line of eq's because they are reasonably priced. You would also have to use a Pac audio PART# TR-4
to trigger the amp turn on. I would use this sit for the non NAV cars because you can put the eq under the radio in the cobby hole with very little modification and it looks great.

I had not send the LC6 but I am very interested in using one. That would allow you to keep all OEM functions including u connect. Just remember High quality amps with more power than you will need.

Mike, I would advise to use the dash speakers. I was amazed at how good they sound with more power on them. If crossed over properly, they'll hold a fair amount of power too. I have 50 watts of clean power on a set crossed over at around 400 hz 24db no pops no bass crystal clear. I'm sure that high quality aftermarkets would sound better.

Because most of my clientele don't want to spend too much cash or they lease. I advised my customers to spend there money on processors and amps then if it does not sound they way it should then we go after the speakers. Most chyslers with either the Bostons or Infinity speakers sound really good with power behind them.
 

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1) Which speakers does UConnect utilize?
2) If it uses the dash speakers (SGII), you could potentially add the LC6 after the factory amp and leave the dash speakers connected to the factory amp for uconnect purposes but amplify the rest of the speakers with aftermarket amps. Obviously you would lose the stereo mute function. What do you guys think?



U connect uses the left front door and dash.
If you use the LC6 the mute will still work. That is a very good looking peice of equipment on paper. I will try and use one on my next project.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
"If you use the LC6 the mute will still work."

Ahhhhh, because you would put the LC6 after the factory amp so uconnect could still cut the signal. Good catch.

Don't know if you noticed but the LC6 also claims to provide a remote turn on for your aftermarket amps.

Thanks again
 

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I just looked at my paperwork and I think I'll be the test dummy for the two Audicontrol devices. They have me down for the LC6 and the bass control thingy.

It'll be two weeks before it's all together.

See this post for more info
http://www.300cforums.com/forums/showthread.php?t=7628

Basically I'm changing everything except the head unit (judging by the LC6 listed on my paperwork they'll keep the stock amp as well).
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Dealers in my area are now selling the JL Audio CleanSweep for $399.99. Anyone seen them on-line for cheaper?
 

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I'd wait until the reviews roll in on this product. I do believe the fact that the JL audio Cleansweep has a Seperate volume control that you MUST use will cause a lot of problems for people.

For instance: You go inside a gas station to get a cup of coffee and your wife or child turns the volume up because they hear their favorite song.. You will need to recalibrate the entire system again.

There are many ways to get full range sound with as little DSP as possible out of the factory head unit. If you heard my install or Pixel Pusher's system you would understand. The factory units do little DSP if any at all, and any good installed has tricks to get the fullest range signal out of an OEM system.

$399 is a lot more cash than you would have to pay a decent installer to get full range out of your OEM system...
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Thanks Rogue. Excellent Audio FAQ in the tech section btw. I refer people to it often on this forum. Thanks for responding on this one. I was just following up on my original price question a few posts back.

The separate volume knob is a little wacky for me given that one of my objectives is to keep the steering wheel controls. I think another point for folks to consider is that $399 will get you one hell of an aftermarket deck. Really makes you question the value of steering wheel controls if you don't have the nav system. Hopefully PAC will make something for the aftermarket units one day.

Question for you though, one of the key selling points of the CleanSweep is its ability to compensate for the "non-defeatable equilization curves" factory systems use to work with the factory speakers (bass roll off, etc). I read that the sound processing in the 300c is actually done by the amp. Does this mean that the signal from the deck is pretty clean?

If I remember correctly, you used a line output converter between the factory head unit but before the amplifier. So you're using the steering wheel controls and happy with the sound from the factory deck?

Thanks again.
 

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Mike5959 said:
I believe the retail is going to be in the high $300s.

the only issue i see with the clean sweep is you loose your steering wheel volume control ability.
I have the clean sweep and nothing else factory but the head unit. GREAT UNIT, you do not loose you steering wheel controls!!! :sly: as far as the volume knob for the clean sweep mine is turned all the way up and stuck up in the dash and I use the factory volume control to adjust. :smoker:
Let me know if I can help or answer any other questions
 

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Silver Bullet said:
I have the clean sweep and nothing else factory but the head unit. GREAT UNIT, you do not loose you steering wheel controls!!! :sly: as far as the volume knob for the clean sweep mine is turned all the way up and stuck up in the dash and I use the factory volume control to adjust. :smoker:
Let me know if I can help or answer any other questions
Once you start using you stock volume control it throws off the calibrations made by the clean sweep. You are not supposed to do that.
 
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