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This is a vintage Corvette I detailed recently that has a huge swirl problem, as noted in the pic. No hand product can effectively remove paint defects such as this. My process involved 3 different buffers, and several products designed for machine use, and an experienced hand. I was satisfied with the results as was the owner, but more importantly is the issue how can this finish stay in this condition? That is another chapter in itself. Gary


 

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Hey Gary, I'm starting to notice some slight scratches or swirl marks showing up. The car is only a little over a month old and I use Supima cotton towels and microfiber wash mits. I also make sure the water is clean and free from grit.

I guess this is just the inevitable huh?

Any suggestions for keeping them away?

I did go out and buy the Mr. Clean car wash kit to negate the use of towel use even more.
 

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Hey VVV - make sure you use a blower (electric leaf blower) too. It works great after the MR. Clean soft water system. Then just drag a waffle MF towel across and you done!

You can get a cheap little leaf blower at Walmart for under $60.
 

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The blower will blow-off MOST of the water. There will still be a little (very little) to be lightly MF'd off. So if you want it perfect, MF it before it dries. Also, the blower does a great job of getting the water out from the mirrors, trim, trunk, etc.

And as far as MFing it off, I mean take you large waffle MF towel, hold the edges and throw it across the hood, drag it back and your done. Do the same on the roof and trunk. Lightly wipe the sides.

Also, I recommend an electric blower, because the gas ones stink like shit, not that, that would hurt the car, but just in case!
 

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Looks like watchout knows some of my tricks. Yes, you want to remove as much water without touching the finish as possible. Make sure its an electric blower NOT a gas one. I don't need to explain that one I hope. Don't ever work in the sun unless you have products designed for that use. I have some products that I need to use in the sun to help me monitor my progress with paint leveling. However for the novice, stay in the shade. When I have more time I will post some tips on how to keep a car swirl free. Gary
 

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I understand not putting products on in the sun, and even washing and towel drying in the sun (water spots)

But with the Mr. Clean system, I don't see a reason not to do it in the sun, I'm confused. So long as there's no spots, there's no problem right?

I kinda thought it would be a good reason to wash in the sun now with the Mr. Clean system. The reason is because my driveway is ALWAYS in the sun, it's kinda hard to avoid it.
 

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Don't get your hopes too high for the Mr. Clean system. It is essentially a water softener (removes minerals). However, my water is extreamly hard, so the Mr. Clean system helps but does not "sheet off" as advertised.

Therefore, I could still end up with water spots, and so might you, especially with your BB in the sun.

I know it's a pain in the ass, but do you have any shade early AM or late PM? You don't want to put any sealant over spots...

You don't live in Alaska with that 6 months of daylight shit do ya? :biggrin:
 

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If you truly want spot free rinsing, look at the crspotless deionizer at crspotless.com. I have only used it twice, but I was able to park my black C in the garage after washing without drying it and the next morning there was not a spot on it. My water is pretty hard too. I got the 100 gallon version, so it will be interesting to see how long it will hold up. I did buy a replacement set of the cartridges. Here's some pics of my setup.
 

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turbomangt said:
C-man, how much was the system? did you install? I'm curious what you guys do if it rains on your car?????? Gary
Gary, it was $189 and came with the predrilled wall mountable housing. The extra cartridges were $36.95. They have a 300 gallon version and both the 300 and 100 are available on a rollaway cart. I did install it myself. I went to Lowes and bought the bolts and mounted it to the outside wall of my garage.

When I emailed them and they stated the 100 gallons are based on 500ppm total disolved solids (TDS) and I'm around 300 so hopefully I'll get more than 100 gallons out of it. They recommend you hook it up to a pressure washer or use the resrictor washers that they provide. There's been some posts on autopia and roadfly on it. Check out their website for more info. BTW, if it rains, I either drive around with a dirty car or rewash it LOL.
 

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C-Man said:
If you truly want spot free rinsing, look at the crspotless deionizer at crspotless.com. I have only used it twice, but I was able to park my black C in the garage after washing without drying it and the next morning there was not a spot on it. My water is pretty hard too. I got the 100 gallon version, so it will be interesting to see how long it will hold up. I did buy a replacement set of the cartridges. Here's some pics of my setup.
I do believe I have found my next purchase . . . .

More details and use observations C-Man, thanks. For example, what is this use restriction washer?
 

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300C4ME said:
I do believe I have found my next purchase . . . .

More details and use observations C-Man, thanks. For example, what is this use restriction washer?
The flow through the cartridges cannot be greater than 3 gallons per minute or the water won't deionize properly. So they supplied two washers with a small (2 gpm) and smaller (1 gpm) hole that restricts the water flow. If you use a pressure washer to rinse the car, then you do not need to use them, if you are using a spray nozzle for your hose, then you put them in the end of the hose where the nozzle screws on.

Also, there is a 5% discount thru this detailing forum that I did not find out until after I bought mine. It'll save you a few $$. Look for a post from [email protected] Spotless to get the details, he has it in his signature.
 

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C-Man said:
The flow through the cartridges cannot be greater than 3 gallons per minute or the water won't deionize properly. So they supplied two washers with a small (2 gpm) and smaller (1 gpm) hole that restricts the water flow. If you use a pressure washer to rinse the car, then you do not need to use them, if you are using a spray nozzle for your hose, then you put them in the end of the hose where the nozzle screws on.

Also, there is a 5% discount thru this detailing forum that I did not find out until after I bought mine. It'll save you a few $$. Look for a post from [email protected] Spotless to get the details, he has it in his signature.
Just purchased, with the discount. Thx C-Man.
 

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I'm an old time car detailer, have had lots of cars featured in Hot Rod and other mags and have won many best of show , both car and paint. #1 Don't ever wash in direct sunlite unless you have someone else on the hose to make sure the bubbles will not stay in the same position for more than a few sesonds "they will act as little magnification len's and can actually burn into the clear paint"If possible drive the car about 200 - 300 feet to remove some water and to spread the rest around, A compressor with air hose at 150 # is premium but leaf blower will work, this should be done quickly. Then once over with your softest towel. Do windows. DONE. Have had lots of fiberglass cars, Vets and Avantis, these cars have a "MEMORY" swirrels and repair marks WILL RETURN. small spider webs will show up. If you have eough paint on the car sand them out {by hand] with 1500 paper using dishwasher soap and water, squigee until the swirrels are gone and rub out with a lambs wool buffer at medium speed using "BLACK MAGIK" an anti swirrel product This will keep them at bay for a year or so but the fiberglass memory will always come back. "Hemidale"
 

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CRSpotless.com

comes up as no such site.

Whsat is the actual link?

THanks
Chas
 
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