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Does anyone have any idea why my temp gauge won't work? It is not the t stat( replaced twice) or the temp sensor (replaced once). What could cause it to fault? Will start working when I restart the car, but never from a cold start. Have seen a few older posts with this problem but no answers there and people not replying to my enquiries as probably left the forum.
 

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2006 CRD Touring
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At the risk of stating the obvious, the gauge won't show any movement until the engine starts to warm up. This is normal; at least for my CRD. Diesels can take some time to warm up from cold.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
At the risk of stating the obvious, the gauge won't show any movement until the engine starts to warm up. This is normal; at least for my CRD. Diesels can take some time to warm up from cold.
Nope the temp gauge won't work unless I restart the car even if I run it for 30 minutes or more.The ecu also runs the thermo fans as a precaution as it can't get a temp reading. Fans start cycling normally when I restart the car and temp gauge works and red throttle body light disappears. This is a 5.7 and 2010 model
 

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What is the actual temperature of the car? Does your car have the "EVIC Egg" readings? If so, have a look at that temp and compare - then see if the gauge should be reading what you think it is.

Remember that in these cars, the temp gauge isn't all that linear, and is generated/run by the electronics, so "in the middle" of the gauge is a wide range of temps that are encountered normally/considered normal. If they put a "normal/degrees" type gauge like an old car had, when temp wandered up (as new cars run hotter than old ones did) people would panic. The CPU looks at a "normal operating range" and whenever it is, "puts gauge needle in the centre".

Or if the car "is being misled" by sensor/CPU; get an infra red temp check tool. You can get them for about $20. Be aware that different surfaces (colours/materials) can give varied readings; but that will tell you the benchmark of what temp actually is, and whether there actually is a gauge problem or temp problem.

Also (sorry if suck eggs) but don't forget that if set to "climate control" - the car will run the aircon if hot OR humid (need demist), so the fans will routinely cycle even if the car isn't hot to run the A/C and cool the condenser.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
What is the actual temperature of the car? Does your car have the "EVIC Egg" readings? If so, have a look at that temp and compare - then see if the gauge should be reading what you think it is.

Remember that in these cars, the temp gauge isn't all that linear, and is generated/run by the electronics, so "in the middle" of the gauge is a wide range of temps that are encountered normally/considered normal. If they put a "normal/degrees" type gauge like an old car had, when temp wandered up (as new cars run hotter than old ones did) people would panic. The CPU looks at a "normal operating range" and whenever it is, "puts gauge needle in the centre".

Or if the car "is being misled" by sensor/CPU; get an infra red temp check tool. You can get them for about $20. Be aware that different surfaces (colours/materials) can give varied readings; but that will tell you the benchmark of what temp actually is, and whether there actually is a gauge problem or temp problem.

Also (sorry if suck eggs) but don't forget that if set to "climate control" - the car will run the aircon if hot OR humid (need demist), so the fans will routinely cycle even if the car isn't hot to run the A/C and cool the condenser.
Thanks for your reply but your way off the mark. Something is going haywire when I start the car from cold. Once restarted or engine is warm temp gauge works perfectly as it should with perfect operating range. The fans turn on from cold start after a couple of seconds and after CEL and red lightning bolt appear due to ecu not receiving a temperature from the engine. Why is this so?
 

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Yeah, but surely knowing what the actual temp of engine is would help?

The EVIC will tell you that; or if that is different from temp engine is, that will be fooling the computer/create a problem. As it would use same sensor.

If I had any temp ambiguities/something not indicating correct, the first step for me would be to see what the actual temp it should be showing is (measure with IR) and what the EVIC thinks/shows it is/do they all match up.

You could be right, could just be dodgy gauge.

But knowing what the actual temp is/whether EVIC reads that temp would pretty much confirm that sensor and CPU know correct temp, as breaks cct in half/should eliminate them.

Then move on from there.

Also, have you tried the "test gauges" function? I can't remember how to actuate it, (I tried it ages ago) but it is on here somewhere/someone will remember. By selective action (ign or throttle) you can get the gauges to sweep min to max, then step and stop in quadrants, ie all gauge test. That may not be conclusive, but if you do it when cold and when hot and gauge doesn't do what it should, may give info as well.

The more info the better? And these are checks (gauges/EVIC) that take seconds to try.
 
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