[MORSAN]

Well I am an official member now. After 21,000 miles of relatively conservative driving my left outer tie rod is busted. Chrysler should man the [email protected]#% up and recall every last 300c, not only for the tie rod crap but for the transmission leak nearly everyone has or will encounter, the sagging rear bumper, the crappy rattling in the dash etc etc. Its a good thing I frigging love my car so much.

 

[2005_300c]

also all the autodim driver side mirrors that are failing too,
I think my tie rods are on there way out my rear bumper is sagging for sure

 

[crhemi]

That's what happened

also all the autodim driver side mirrors that are failing too,
I think my tie rods are on there way out my rear bumper is sagging for sure

Last night (dusk) I'm driving and my sideview mirror goes blue...
Any info on this?

 

[joey]

...... not only for the tie rod crap but for the transmission leak nearly everyone has or will encounter, the sagging rear bumper, the crappy rattling in the dash etc etc. Its a good thing I frigging love my car so much.

LMAO. The old love and hate relationship.

 

[smoove7410]

What is an indication of tie rod failure?

 

[NWH_300C]

Well I am an official member now. After 21,000 miles of relatively conservative driving my left outer tie rod is busted. Chrysler should man the [email protected]#% up and recall every last 300c, not only for the tie rod crap but for the transmission leak nearly everyone has or will encounter, the sagging rear bumper, the crappy rattling in the dash etc etc. Its a good thing I frigging love my car so much.

HA my thoughts exactly!!! The rattle has got to get figured out. damn.

 

[OoTLink]

I thought that rattle WAS found out, it's the OEM amplifier under the bottom half of the driver's side dash.

 

[MORSAN]

I thought that rattle WAS found out, it's the OEM amplifier under the bottom half of the driver's side dash.

ok, they found it..now fix it for me Chrysler

 

[Twinbrother]

I had the tie rods replaced twice under warranty and I don't even drive hard (no oversize wheels either). The dealer said they couldn't duplicate that maddening dash rattle, and now I'm out of warranty. Is there a TSB for it or an easy fix?

Joey is right about the love/hate relationship. I still love the look of the car and will for years to come, but some of its habits (suspension issues, dash rattles, trans leak, crummy Continentals) are hard to accept.

 

[MORSAN]

I had the tie rods replaced twice under warranty and I don't even drive hard (no oversize wheels either). The dealer said they couldn't duplicate that maddening dash rattle, and now I'm out of warranty. Is there a TSB for it or an easy fix?

Joey is right about the love/hate relationship. I still love the look of the car and will for years to come, but some of its habits (suspension issues, dash rattles, trans leak, crummy Continentals) are hard to accept.

There is a great thread on the forums right now about a class action lawsuit against the makers of the Continentals. I filled out my form last night. Those tires were pure garbage! Dont get me started.

 

[OoTLink]

Yeah I <3 the BFGs I got to replace em, but I always worried about that.

Can you tell the condition of the tie rods by turning the wheels all the way? Or do you have to take em off? My car's got 30k but either way recently the steering gear looked fine.

OTOH, the clock spring makes noise.

 

[Mr. iNCREDIBLE]

hmm..

I had the tie rod failure.. replaced the steering rack with an SRT8 rack.. (under warranty. I love my dealer)

never had the tranny leak (touches wood)
never had the dash rattle (touches wood again)


have the sagging rear bumper.. need to fix that some day..

had the sunroof rattle, and have had the sun roof unit (motor and tracks) replaced 3 times.. what seemed to fix it was the shop that did my suede headliner.. not sure what they did, but no more rattle since..

had upper and lower ball joints fail, and that was warranty replaced..

and other than a problematic airbag system, that after 14 dealer trips was finally resolved when the turn signal stalk was completely replaced with a 2006 model instead of the faulty 2004 that they kept putting in (again my dealer went to the wall with Chrysler on that one.. Love my dealership)..

I haven't had any other issues..

growing pains for a first model year car, always happens on a new release.. (ask me about my 1993 Ford Probe or my 1999 Chevy Z71 some day and the first year run issues they had).

some day I'll learn to wait until the second year run of a car before buying (probably not, I like being among the first to have something)

 

[chefb]

was the knocking being felt through the steering wheel if it was the tie rod end
chefb

 

[CRUCAT]

how much should a tie rod end cost to repair?? my dealer says my inner tie rod is bad along with upper control arm on the right side (terrible squeaking sound)?? total cost about $400 with the alignment was the quote, sounded kind of high to me. are there aftermarket parts for this or is OEM all that is availble?

 

[trust]

mine cost me less than 150 dollars with the wheel alignment. you would think there would be a better tie rod set up availible for these vehicles

 

[CRUCAT]

mine cost me less than 150 dollars with the wheel alignment. you would think there would be a better tie rod set up availible for these vehicles

for just the inner tie rod end it is $96 total is that what your $150 entailed??

the control arm is much higher, $253 for the part & labor.

 

[LandonElf]

Mine were at the point of total failure at around 50K miles but luckily my local tire/brake shop caught it in time. I was told that a complete failure at highway speeds can result in a detached wheel and rotor, so definately get yours checked out. Here are the symptoms;

1) Consistent clunking in the front area of the car, especially over bumps
2) A faint shuttering at highway speeds, especially when cornering
3) A floating/sloppy feeling in the stearing wheel
4) A clicking noise when turning the wheel left/right at a dead stop

Also, those of you running wheels bigger than 20" are at a higher risk due to the increased strain on your steering system.

Its pretty obvious when these symptons occur and any half decent tire/brake shop can usually spot a bad tie rod in time. Expect a complete (inner and outer) replacement to run around 200-400 dollars. My aftermarket warranty covered most of it, so the factory may fix it.

Stay safe!!

 

[MORSAN]

Mine were at the point of total failure at around 50K miles but luckily my local tire/brake shop caught it in time. I was told that a complete failure at highway speeds can result in a detached wheel and rotor, so definately get yours checked out. Here are the symptoms;

1) Consistent clunking in the front area of the car, especially over bumps
2) A faint shuttering at highway speeds, especially when cornering
3) A floating/sloppy feeling in the stearing wheel
4) A clicking noise when turning the wheel left/right at a dead stop

Also, those of you running wheels bigger than 20" are at a higher risk due to the increased strain on your steering system.

Its pretty obvious when these symptons occur and any half decent tire/brake shop can usually spot a bad tie rod in time. Expect a complete (inner and outer) replacement to run around 200-400 dollars. My aftermarket warranty covered most of it, so the factory may fix it.

Stay safe!!

Thanks for the great info Landon Elf, I hope everyone reads this thread and takes preemptive action before one of their wheels flys off into oncoming traffic!

 

[bruno]

ok, they found it..now fix it for me Chrysler

Another annoying dash rattle was resolved with this fix as posted by dunsantos: http://www.300cforums.com/forums/te...ow-stop-dash-rattles-squeaks-permanently.html

 

[NWH_300C]

Mine were at the point of total failure at around 50K miles but luckily my local tire/brake shop caught it in time. I was told that a complete failure at highway speeds can result in a detached wheel and rotor, so definately get yours checked out. Here are the symptoms;

1) Consistent clunking in the front area of the car, especially over bumps
2) A faint shuttering at highway speeds, especially when cornering
3) A floating/sloppy feeling in the stearing wheel
4) A clicking noise when turning the wheel left/right at a dead stop

Also, those of you running wheels bigger than 20" are at a higher risk due to the increased strain on your steering system.

Its pretty obvious when these symptons occur and any half decent tire/brake shop can usually spot a bad tie rod in time. Expect a complete (inner and outer) replacement to run around 200-400 dollars. My aftermarket warranty covered most of it, so the factory may fix it.

Stay safe!!

:scared: :scared: I'm surprised that some 300 owners who arent as well informed as us here on the boards haven't had this happen, thus resulting in a huge lawsuit.... Chrysler really should fix this problem for free for all owners, it's their fault installing faulty hardware that could kill someone. Kinda baffling really, who would want their customer's to die? (besides phillip morris)

(im beginning to think this is happening to me, my steering wheel will gently shake at high speeds, and I have the clicking in the steering wheel sometimes, none of the other symptoms though, and im at 12,000 miles.)