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Discussion Starter #1
مساء الخير كيف حالكم جميعا منتدى Chrysler لدي مشكلة في سيارتي ، وهي عندما يتوقف المحرك فجأة عندما أتوقف عند إشارة مرور أو عندما أوقف السيارة في موقف السيارات. مشكلتي مستمرة منذ 6 أشهر.
 

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If I have translated this right h2m2ode is saying "Good evening, how are you all? Chrysler Forum I have a problem with my car, which is when the engine suddenly stops when I stop at a traffic light or when I park the car in the parking lot. My problem has been going on for 6 months."

h2m2ode I'm hoping you can understand or translate English. A few questions for you:
1. Which model car and engine do you have?
2. Does this happen mostly when the fuel tank is full?
3. Do you have the codes? If you don't have a reader you can do that yourself: Keydance
 

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Discussion Starter #3
سيارة موديل 2006 سعة المحرك 5.7 8 سلندرات وتطفئ دائما بالوقود الكامل في خزان وعندما تنخفض كمية الوقود تنطفئ ولا أرى أي كود في شاشة المعلومات
 

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OK if I understand again you have a 2006 v8 5.7 which stalls when you have a full tank.

That's a recognised issue for which there is a Chrysler recognised issue "X53 extended warranty". This should be what you need: Link

I believe your dealer should replace the fuel tank at no cost to you
 

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I am have a similar problem I think. My 2006 Chrysler 300c SRT8 is shutting off, changed spark plugs, cleaned throttle body, replaced camshaft position sensor, replaced the fill tank. It still shuts off. It shuts off in idle sometimes, but when I put in park or drive it shuts off to. The dealership says it the transmission. They want to replace the whole transmission. I finally got a code p0700 that made me take it to the dealership. The p0700 code was followed by p0732 and p2784. I honestly think I'm being ripped off, the damn car only has 80k miles. Has been maintenance and recorded through Carfax since it's left the car lot (second owner)... HELPP!!!
 

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I just bought a 07 srt and same thing was happening to me I can be driving and it would turn off. Yesterday ran out of gas and now it cranks for about 4 sec before turning on then put it and drive and turns off.
 

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DGO is 100% right on the fuel tank issue. Stalling right after fill ups are becoming more common as the early LX V-8's with the 19 gallon fuel tank get more and more miles on them. I had to have mine replaced (under the X53 lifetime warranty) at around 165K and haven't had a problem since. If you had the fuel tank replaced, did you pay the stealer to do the job? If so, you've been ripped off, as it should not cost you a dime to have this "known problem" fixed under the lifetime warranty. Not to worry though, you can get your money back from Chrysler if you still have your receipt.

Your transmission issue(s) is/are off the subject of this thread and you'll probably get more responses by starting a new thread on this subject. I'll do one quick response here though and give you my two cents worth..

Romeodavinci1, I would recommend you be very cautious on this, especially if you had no transmission codes before you took it in to the "stealer." Did it work fine before you took it in? Does it work properly now? In any case, the very first thing you should do, especially if you don't know the vehicle history, is check the transmission fluid level and condition. There is no dipstick in vehicles with the Mercedes NAG1 transmission......which is what is in yours. You'll need to purchase a dipstick (or make one) and get something like an infrared thermometer to read the fluid temperature. You'll also need a copy of the transmission fluid temperature/fluid level chart from the Factory Service Manual. As a quick guide, at full operating temperature (~165*F) on both of mine with NAG1's, the fluid levels are 65 mm on my dipstick. Once you're sure the fluid level and condition are good, clear all the codes (you should pick up a fairly high quality scanner that can read and clear codes for ALL electronic modules) and see if any of them come back after driving it a bit.

Good luck and please keep us posted on your progress.
 

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DGO is 100% right on the fuel tank issue. Stalling right after fill ups are becoming more common as the early LX V-8's with the 19 gallon fuel tank get more and more miles on them. I had to have mine replaced (under the X53 lifetime warranty) at around 165K and haven't had a problem since. If you had the fuel tank replaced, did you pay the stealer to do the job? If so, you've been ripped off, as it should not cost you a dime to have this "known problem" fixed under the lifetime warranty. Not to worry though, you can get your money back from Chrysler if you still have your receipt.

Your transmission issue(s) is/are off the subject of this thread and you'll probably get more responses by starting a new thread on this subject. I'll do one quick response here though and give you my two cents worth..

Romeodavinci1, I would recommend you be very cautious on this, especially if you had no transmission codes before you took it in to the "stealer." Did it work fine before you took it in? Does it work properly now? In any case, the very first thing you should do, especially if you don't know the vehicle history, is check the transmission fluid level and condition. There is no dipstick in vehicles with the Mercedes NAG1 transmission......which is what is in yours. You'll need to purchase a dipstick (or make one) and get something like an infrared thermometer to read the fluid temperature. You'll also need a copy of the transmission fluid temperature/fluid level chart from the Factory Service Manual. As a quick guide, at full operating temperature (~165*F) on both of mine with NAG1's, the fluid levels are 65 mm on my dipstick. Once you're sure the fluid level and condition are good, clear all the codes (you should pick up a fairly high quality scanner that can read and clear codes for ALL electronic modules) and see if any of them come back after driving it a bit.

Good luck and please keep us posted on your progress.

Thanks for the response really. So I actually received the codes before going to the dealer. I told them to change the valve body, they called back telling me it was pieces of metal scattered in my transmission, I told them I'll be there in 3min to have a look. (Unless they put another transmission in my car) when I arrived I did see what they were talking about which put me in a complete deal of shock. From the I was told the metal pieces had surrounded a speed sensor which communicates with the tcm and that is destroyed. So I'm pretty much f***ed. Hopefully I can find a used tranny and drop it in.
 

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Can you describe the stuff in the pan.....aluminum, metal, stuff that looks like rag lint, amount of each etc.? What was the color of the fluid? Was there anything on the magnet? Did they check the fluid level before dropping the pan? Did it look like they tampered with the contents of the pan or did you see it as it looked after they dropped it.....in other words no cleaning before you saw it.

Usually these things will give some sort of warning.......codes, slipping, banging into gears, jerky actions, slow or harsh gear transitions from Park/Neutral to any other gear and so on. It's usually pretty difficult to not know something is wrong. Did it shift OK when you first bought it and when you were driving it to the stealer? Is it possible that's why the P.O. sold the vehicle?

If it comes to this, a good quality rebuilt NAG1 for the SRT should probably run between $3000-4000 installed, unless you want a performance one built......IMO, not necessary if you're pretty much stock. My 06 SRT8 has 172K on it and I just recently changed the fluid/filter in it and it still looked fine and works great. I have my own custom shift schedules and torque management settings though, so mine shifts quite a differently than the factory stock settings.
 

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Can you describe the stuff in the pan.....aluminum, metal, stuff that looks like rag lint, amount of each etc.? What was the color of the fluid? Was there anything on the magnet? Did they check the fluid level before dropping the pan? Did it look like they tampered with the contents of the pan or did you see it as it looked after they dropped it.....in other words no cleaning before you saw it.

Usually these things will give some sort of warning.......codes, slipping, banging into gears, jerky actions, slow or harsh gear transitions from Park/Neutral to any other gear and so on. It's usually pretty difficult to not know something is wrong. Did it shift OK when you first bought it and when you were driving it to the stealer? Is it possible that's why the P.O. sold the vehicle?

If it comes to this, a good quality rebuilt NAG1 for the SRT should probably run between $3000-4000 installed, unless you want a performance one built......IMO, not necessary if you're pretty much stock. My 06 SRT8 has 172K on it and I just recently changed the fluid/filter in it and it still looked fine and works great. I have my own custom shift schedules and torque management settings though, so mine shifts quite a differently than the factory stock settings.
So from what I seen, there was metal pieces like shattered glass, the fluid was brownish/red. The magnet had bigger pieces of metal on it. As far as shifting, if there was any slipping I didn't notice. However besides the shutting off while in park idling, it would shut off in drive occasionally. It was towed into the "stealer😂". At this point the has shut off at least 10 times moving to a different parking spot, and then going for drive to neutral I got a jerk, then from neutral to park another jerk. I immediately turned it off. Put the key in the on position for 15 second, started the car, booom engine light came on for the first time. P0700.. checked the transmission fluid myself, levels was fine. Called The tow truck
 

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It's sounding like you may indeed need a new transmission if they hadn't tampered with the pan contents before you saw it. The P0700 code is a generic code that tells you something is wrong with the transmission. It takes a "higher end" scanner to read the Transmission Control Module (TCM). How did you check the transmission fluid...procedure?
 

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It's sounding like you may indeed need a new transmission if they hadn't tampered with the pan contents before you saw it. The P0700 code is a generic code that tells you something is wrong with the transmission. It takes a "higher end" scanner to read the Transmission Control Module (TCM). How did you check the transmission fluid...procedure?
To check the transmission fluid, I started the car, let it run about 2 minutes ( it shut off once), then I proceeded to go through all the gears. Once I got to drive, I went through the "Manual" 5 speeds. Once I got back to drive the car shut off again. I turned the car off, then started over but a little faster. I actually got through every gear and back to park the second time. Then used a dipstick while car was still running. So after the p0700 code, the other codes within the TCM was p2784 and p0732.
 

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So, you didn't do it like the FSM indicated? See my Post No. 7.
 
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