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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hey there, I was thinking about camming my 07 SRT8 with about 120k miles on it but the car still drives smoothly. I wanted to give it a shot and was wondering if it was worth it or not a safe investment at this point? If so, how much would it cost normally to do so?
 

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I would. You'll just gain power.
So all in, all parts for a day installation, I'm probably a hair over $2k. I did the premium kit from Jay greene. (Included: cam, locators, springs, lifters, shims, pushrods, and retainers)
Here's a little run down on stuff not included in the cam kit: head gaskets, head bolts, timing cover gasket, spark plugs, 180 thermostat, oil/filter, coolant (saved most of my old, but it was new anyways), tune and tune device. I could add up my receipts if you would like. I used felpro for most stuff.
Would be a good time to do the water pump and any coolant hoses showing age. Also a perfect time for headers.

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I would. You'll just gain power.
So all in, all parts for a day installation, I'm probably a hair over $2k. I did the premium kit from Jay greene. (Included: cam, locators, springs, lifters, shims, pushrods, and retainers)
Here's a little run down on stuff not included in the cam kit: head gaskets, head bolts, timing cover gasket, spark plugs, 180 thermostat, oil/filter, coolant (saved most of my old, but it was new anyways), tune and tune device. I could add up my receipts if you would like. I used felpro for most stuff.
Would be a good time to do the water pump and any coolant hoses showing age. Also a perfect time for headers.

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Did you have do any power train upgrade to accommodate for the new power? I'm getting sent to Hawaii for my first duty station and I'm hoping they have a performance garage there but won't rape my pockets to install. Cool thing is, for the little things like brakes and oil changes they give us a garage to work on our cars with supplied tools. I was going to probably add headers and an exhaust system. Then tune all it afterwards.
 

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Thanks for your service. Which branch and are you planning to make it a career or just one or two tours? Most military facilities have excellent auto shops for you to work on your own vehicles. Many also have very knowledgeable folks that can help you with any problem or modification you may want to do.

79jasper has given you an excellent rundown on the things you'll need to do this job without risk. IMO, the one thing you need to be careful about and do a lot of research on the cam/kit you want to install based on your ultimate goals for the vehicle and how long you intend to keep it. There are a ton of different cams available for the Hemi's and you probably don't want to go too radical unless you're planning to make it into a racer. If it's a daily driver, you'll want to have a cam with good street manners that does not adversely affect driveability. I did the cam/lifters/springs on my 06 300CSRT8 when it had 164K on it and it runs strong. I opted for a cam that had a better low and mid-range as opposed to the stock cam which is more of a mid and top end cam.

The SRT8's have a pretty good exhaust system to begin with so, if it were me, I'd put that down the list until you're done modding the rest of the drive train. I still have the completely stock exhaust on my SRT and have no plans for changing it. I also don't plan to do anything more than I've already done....mild cam/kit, tune and a throttle body I had laying around from one of my 5.7's.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks for your service. Which branch and are you planning to make it a career or just one or two tours? Most military facilities have excellent auto shops for you to work on your own vehicles. Many also have very knowledgeable folks that can help you with any problem or modification you may want to do.

79jasper has given you an excellent rundown on the things you'll need to do this job without risk. IMO, the one thing you need to be careful about and do a lot of research on the cam/kit you want to install based on your ultimate goals for the vehicle and how long you intend to keep it. There are a ton of different cams available for the Hemi's and you probably don't want to go too radical unless you're planning to make it into a racer. If it's a daily driver, you'll want to have a cam with good street manners that does not adversely affect driveability. I did the cam/lifters/springs on my 06 300CSRT8 when it had 164K on it and it runs strong. I opted for a cam that had a better low and mid-range as opposed to the stock cam which is more of a mid and top end cam.

The SRT8's have a pretty good exhaust system to begin with so, if it were me, I'd put that down the list until you're done modding the rest of the drive train. I still have the completely stock exhaust on my SRT and have no plans for changing it. I also don't plan to do anything more than I've already done....mild cam/kit, tune and a throttle body I had laying around from one of my 5.7's.
Thank you! I'm in the intel community for the Air Force! We can make a great career out of the Intel side. I'm going to graduate pretty damn soon from my tech school before they send me off to my PCS. I'm doing 4 years to test it and see if I like it, but I'm honestly thinking about making a career out of it and becoming an officer. You get a drastic pay boost and I get to lead Flights until I continue to rank up I can lead Squadrons or Wings. Since I've been in, nothing but great things have been happening. So shit, why not stay in and enjoy the experience and stop bad guys lol.

Is there a cam kit you'd recommend if I wanted to just get a new experience for my car? I'm just going to do daily driving and have fun with it. Nothing crazy! I hope when I get to HA, they actually have people who know what they're doing there. Since it's not CONUS, I have a weird feeling it might be hard to find decent mechanics in HA.
 

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I'm familiar with the on post shops.
Far as the drive train, it's said the trans in these cars are pretty robust. So I would say long as you keep up with fluid changes, should be fine. I don't think most see problems until boost and Racing it.
For mine, I let Jay recommend a cam.

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I'm familiar with the on post shops.
Far as the drive train, it's said the trans in these cars are pretty robust. So I would say long as you keep up with fluid changes, should be fine. I don't think most see problems until boost and Racing it.
For mine, I let Jay recommend a cam.

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My father is a mechanic and told me not to change the trans fluid if you're not sure if the previous owner did it previously. Instead I put in the Lucas Transmission Fix inside. I haven't had issues since.
 

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It's a old wives tale. Some say don't flush. Imo, if a flush "kills" a trans, it was already going to happen.
But normal fluid changes are fine.

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
My father is a mechanic and told me not to change the trans fluid if you're not sure if the previous owner did it previously. Instead I put in the Lucas Transmission Fix inside. I haven't had issues since.
It's a old wives tale. Some say don't flush. Imo, if a flush "kills" a trans, it was already going to happen.
But normal fluid changes are fine.

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Lol I'm scared because I don't wanna spend money to fix the damn trans. I've spent money out the ass restoring the car maintence wise. :/
 

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Are you going to be at HIckam? IMO, the Intel career field is one of the best and is easily transferable over to the "real world" when you get out.....if you choose to continue working. My advice to you, having been there and done that in the USAF, is to take all the career progression courses and schools you can (even in different related fields if possible), get your degree and try to become an officer. The goal is to get as high a rank as you can, as quickly as you can. Also, IMO, my 26 years in the Air Force was, overall, a very good experience. I did about 15 1/2 years enlisted and was the youngest E-8 on base at the time. I figured that, at 35 years old I was almost as high in rank that I could go and was in an E-9 position, so the only other option was to become an officer. As an enlisted guy (I think all officers should be enlisted for at least 4 years before becoming an officer so they know first hand who does all the work) I was in Aircraft Maintenance and Logistics. Many, many years ago they had a program that allowed enlisted folks to become officers at a higher grade than 2nd Lt. based on their age, education and experience. When I got commissioned, I went from E-8 to O-3 (otherwise I wouldn't have done it) and when I retired at 46 years old, I was an 0-4 and an Aircraft Maintenance Squadron Commander with 360 folks under me and responsible for 16 C-130 aircraft. After about 10 1/2 years as an officer, the politics (especially on the officer side (by the way we enlisted folks used to call officers"zeros" but not to their faces) was starting to adversely affect my health, so I got out with 26 years to the day.....maximum pay for time in grade at the time. Had I stayed in, I would have progressed even further, but I also could have died from the stress. When I was first commissioned, I spent about 3-4 years as the Wing Logistics Officer....super high stress and no computers at the time to help with the duties and responsibilities of the job. Then I went back over to Aircraft Maintenance. Guess that gives away my age a little. Anyway, good luck to you in your career and whatever you decide to do.

As far as your cam selection goes, all three of my Hemi's have relatively mild cams with good low and mid-range power, but not terribly good above about 5500 RPM, although they'll rev to 6400 RPN or so. You'd probably want something with at least a .520-.550 lift, around 250-270 duration @ 006 tappet lift, and a lower rather than higher Lobe Separation Angle......around 112-114 degrees. This kind of timing will give you a pretty good low and mid-range, but not a real strong top end. After all, I doubt you'll be running around above 4000 plus RPM a whole lot. After all you for sure want to get a bunch of tickets, as your Supervisor and Commander wouldn't be too happy with you and it would definitely adversely affect your career progression plans.
 

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It's a old wives tale. Some say don't flush. Imo, if a flush "kills" a trans, it was already going to happen.
But normal fluid changes are fine.

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IMO, I wouldn't "pressure flush" the transmission, as it can dislodge debris and allow it to circulate throughout the transmission, possibly causing problem(s) you didn't have previously. Changing the fluid and filter is not a problem though and, IMO should be done on a regular basis. FWIW, I do all of mine every 30K, along with the differentials. Remember, fluid and filters cost less than transmissions and differentials. Be sure to inspect the contents in the bottom of the pan when you drop it (also pick up a Mercedes type pan with a drain plug......Dorman has them for under about $30). If there is any metal on the magnet or stuff that looks like rag lint, you may have the beginning of a problem. The stuff that looks like rag lint may be clutch material. If the fluid has been in there a long time, it'll likely be brownish which isn't bad and the pan will have a thin coating of gray powder like looking stuff, If it smells burnt, this may also indicate a potential problem. The thin layer of gray powdery stuff is fairly normal in a transmission that hasn't been regularly serviced. If all looks good, install a new filter, the pan and add/check the fluid using ONLY the procedure outlined in the Factory Service Manual. Use a good quality ATF+4 fluid. Personally, I use Redline products in everything on all of mine......engine, transmission and differential. The transmission fluid is Redline C+4 and runs $10-15 a quart depending on who has the best price. If you want it to shift better (the stock 6.1 TCM is pretty good), you may want to consider adding a Mopar Performance Transmission Control Module. If you do that, just be sure to follow the setup/break-in procedures to a "T" and your WOT up shifts will be great. As a side note, for the 6.1 engine, be sure to use ONLY 0W-40 synthetic or, if you have lots of miles on it like I do, you can successfully use 5W-40. Again, I use nothing but Redline, but there are many good oils available today..
 
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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Are you going to be at HIckam? IMO, the Intel career field is one of the best and is easily transferable over to the "real world" when you get out.....if you choose to continue working. My advice to you, having been there and done that in the USAF, is to take all the career progression courses and schools you can (even in different related fields if possible), get your degree and try to become an officer. The goal is to get as high a rank as you can, as quickly as you can. Also, IMO, my 26 years in the Air Force was, overall, a very good experience. I did about 15 1/2 years enlisted and was the youngest E-8 on base at the time. I figured that, at 35 years old I was almost as high in rank that I could go and was in an E-9 position, so the only other option was to become an officer. As an enlisted guy (I think all officers should be enlisted for at least 4 years before becoming an officer so they know first hand who does all the work) I was in Aircraft Maintenance and Logistics. Many, many years ago they had a program that allowed enlisted folks to become officers at a higher grade than 2nd Lt. based on their age, education and experience. When I got commissioned, I went from E-8 to O-3 (otherwise I wouldn't have done it) and when I retired at 46 years old, I was an 0-4 and an Aircraft Maintenance Squadron Commander with 360 folks under me and responsible for 16 C-130 aircraft. After about 10 1/2 years as an officer, the politics (especially on the officer side (by the way we enlisted folks used to call officers"zeros" but not to their faces) was starting to adversely affect my health, so I got out with 26 years to the day.....maximum pay for time in grade at the time. Had I stayed in, I would have progressed even further, but I also could have died from the stress. When I was first commissioned, I spent about 3-4 years as the Wing Logistics Officer....super high stress and no computers at the time to help with the duties and responsibilities of the job. Then I went back over to Aircraft Maintenance. Guess that gives away my age a little. Anyway, good luck to you in your career and whatever you decide to do.

As far as your cam selection goes, all three of my Hemi's have relatively mild cams with good low and mid-range power, but not terribly good above about 5500 RPM, although they'll rev to 6400 RPN or so. You'd probably want something with at least a .520-.550 lift, around 250-270 duration @ 006 tappet lift, and a lower rather than higher Lobe Separation Angle......around 112-114 degrees. This kind of timing will give you a pretty good low and mid-range, but not a real strong top end. After all, I doubt you'll be running around above 4000 plus RPM a whole lot. After all you for sure want to get a bunch of tickets, as your Supervisor and Commander wouldn't be too happy with you and it would definitely adversely affect your career progression plans.
Yes sir I'm heading to Hickam in the end of NOV. They just approved leave in route so I hope I can get back to Michigan to see my family and then drive my car off to a port so it can be transported to HA. I definitely would like to say thank you for you long career in the Air Force! Im honestly excited to be apart the institution and being able to do things I never thought I would be doing. I don't get myself into trouble and I hope be that exceptional Airman. I have plans to comission honestly. Going from E-4 or E-5 by the time I'm done with school and hopefully get commissioned; the pay of O-1 is going to be a substantial pay boost. I want to be a great leader. I want to lead by example and with my heart than with an ego you see most bad leaders do.

Surprisingly enough, I haven't gotten a ticket with my 300 yet. Somehow got a speeding ticket in my prior car which was a Dodge dart 🤦‍♂️. Officer got the wrong car honestly. Said I was going 90 on a 70 when I literally just merged into the highway with traffic.
But I hope Hawaii has a cool performance garage where I can get to know the people there and they help me work on my car while I'm there. I've been using the 0w-40 mobile1 oil on my car and it's been great. Idk if I want to try to do the transmission fluid . I'm quite scared...
 

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Sounds like you have the right attitude going in and this will most certainly help you down the line. Just keep in mind who does the work that will make you look good. Most of all, treat your subordinates like people. I remember more than one enlisted airman that, once commissioned, became holier than thou and always looked down at their subordinates. I am sure you'll also see many officers and airmen that will be excellent examples of "how not to do it" and/or will try to reinvent the wheel. I guess, over the years, I had the most grief with the flyboys. Don't get me wrong, some were great to work with, but others thought they were prima donnas and above it all. Those folks, generally, were clueless about what it takes to provide mission ready aircraft, and thought that, because we had 16 of them, we could supply them with one or more at the drop of a hat. That's not how it works.

I'd be really surprised if the auto shop at HIckam is not top notch. Most are very complete with much of the latest technology. Most also have a number of folks that are very knowledgeable in all vehicle systems.

Doing the transmission service on the NAG1 is really quite easy, but a little messy if the pan doesn't have a drain plug. It's nothing to be afraid of at all. Getting the refill to the correct level (not over or under filled) is probably the most critical thing you'd need to be concerned with in the NAG1 unit.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Sounds like you have the right attitude going in and this will most certainly help you down the line. Just keep in mind who does the work that will make you look good. Most of all, treat your subordinates like people. I remember more than one enlisted airman that, once commissioned, became holier than thou and always looked down at their subordinates. I am sure you'll also see many officers and airmen that will be excellent examples of "how not to do it" and/or will try to reinvent the wheel. I guess, over the years, I had the most grief with the flyboys. Don't get me wrong, some were great to work with, but others thought they were prima donnas and above it all. Those folks, generally, were clueless about what it takes to provide mission ready aircraft, and thought that, because we had 16 of them, we could supply them with one or more at the drop of a hat. That's not how it works.

I'd be really surprised if the auto shop at HIckam is not top notch. Most are very complete with much of the latest technology. Most also have a number of folks that are very knowledgeable in all vehicle systems.

Doing the transmission service on the NAG1 is really quite easy, but a little messy if the pan doesn't have a drain plug. It's nothing to be afraid of at all. Getting the refill to the correct level (not over or under filled) is probably the most critical thing you'd need to be concerned with in the NAG1 unit.
I will be honest, I've ran into a prime example of one of my instructors who has been a jerk while he was instructing our class. I'm happy he's no longer our instructor. He definitely went down on the checklist of "Do not be like this guy."
Do you think the techs at the Auto Hobby shop will work with you on your vehicle if you need help or some knowledge?
 

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My father is a mechanic and told me not to change the trans fluid if you're not sure if the previous owner did it previously. Instead I put in the Lucas Transmission Fix inside. I haven't had issues since.
The NAG1 trans used in these cars is pretty stout, have one in my '14 300C w/hemi, did a trans service on it recently and flushed the trans as per the Mercedes Benz factory procedure and it made all the difference in the world in conjunction with a Transgo shift reprogram kit and a fresh conductor plate from M-B(cheaper than Mopar and same part). Biggest thing is to get the trans fluid levels set correctly on the measuring stick(65-70mm hot and 25mm cold). Use the Mopar ATF, it is a good quality fluid and works well, you will need around 4 ea. 5-liter jugs of it. You may also want to get the trans service kit, this includes the filter, pan gasket, and the plastic electrical insert with new o-ring seal for the trans wiring plug.
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
The NAG1 trans used in these cars is pretty stout, have one in my '14 300C w/hemi, did a trans service on it recently and flushed the trans as per the Mercedes Benz factory procedure and it made all the difference in the world in conjunction with a Transgo shift reprogram kit and a fresh conductor plate from M-B(cheaper than Mopar and same part). Biggest thing is to get the trans fluid levels set correctly on the measuring stick(65-70mm hot and 25mm cold). Use the Mopar ATF, it is a good quality fluid and works well, you will need around 4 ea. 5-liter jugs of it. You may also want to get the trans service kit, this includes the filter, pan gasket, and the plastic electrical insert with new o-ring seal for the trans wiring plug.
Is it self explanatory to do a trans flush? Is similar to an oil change or is it a bit more complex? I don't wanna screw my car :(
 

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Is it self explanatory to do a trans flush? Is similar to an oil change or is it a bit more complex? I don't wanna screw my car :(
It's pretty easy to do, get a clear plastic container about 2.5 gallon capacity and mark off 3.5 liter increments on it(almost a gallon for us non-metric folks), service your trans with new filter and pan gasket, and add 5.3 qts(5 liters)to trans, pull return line from passenger side of trans with special tool and attach a clear plastic tube to it, then put it in the container and light off the car. When the ATF going into the container gets to 3.5 liters, shut it off immediately and refill with another 3.5 liters and repeat, then top up trans again and check fluid level with fluid at around 160 to 180 degrees F., should be around 65-70mm height on a measuring stick(I use a 3' long plastic white ziptie marked off in correct increments, easier to see the fluid). Check it again with cold fluid the next day on a cold start and should be around 22mm or so. Hope this helps(I'm a retired mechanic so this is easy stuff for me)!
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
It's pretty easy to do, get a clear plastic container about 2.5 gallon capacity and mark off 3.5 liter increments on it(almost a gallon for us non-metric folks), service your trans with new filter and pan gasket, and add 5.3 qts(5 liters)to trans, pull return line from passenger side of trans with special tool and attach a clear plastic tube to it, then put it in the container and light off the car. When the ATF going into the container gets to 3.5 liters, shut it off immediately and refill with another 3.5 liters and repeat, then top up trans again and check fluid level with fluid at around 160 to 180 degrees F., should be around 65-70mm height on a measuring stick(I use a 3' long plastic white ziptie marked off in correct increments, easier to see the fluid). Check it again with cold fluid the next day on a cold start and should be around 22mm or so. Hope this helps(I'm a retired mechanic so this is easy stuff for me)!
Thank you! Imma take a look into this when I get my car to HA and can work on my car on the weekends.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
It's pretty easy to do, get a clear plastic container about 2.5 gallon capacity and mark off 3.5 liter increments on it(almost a gallon for us non-metric folks), service your trans with new filter and pan gasket, and add 5.3 qts(5 liters)to trans, pull return line from passenger side of trans with special tool and attach a clear plastic tube to it, then put it in the container and light off the car. When the ATF going into the container gets to 3.5 liters, shut it off immediately and refill with another 3.5 liters and repeat, then top up trans again and check fluid level with fluid at around 160 to 180 degrees F., should be around 65-70mm height on a measuring stick(I use a 3' long plastic white ziptie marked off in correct increments, easier to see the fluid). Check it again with cold fluid the next day on a cold start and should be around 22mm or so. Hope this helps(I'm a retired mechanic so this is easy stuff for me)!
I had my dad have guys take a look at the drive shaft since we don't have a lift at home and they found out the bearing in the center of drive shaft needs replacement -.- aghhh
 

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I will be honest, I've ran into a prime example of one of my instructors who has been a jerk while he was instructing our class. I'm happy he's no longer our instructor. He definitely went down on the checklist of "Do not be like this guy."
Do you think the techs at the Auto Hobby shop will work with you on your vehicle if you need help or some knowledge?
Most of them are gearheads like you and me and I never found one that wasn't willing to help. I think I'd be surprised if you found ones that wouldn't help you.

Markmcbx has it right. If you follow his lead, you shouldn't have any problems with the transmission service. Markmcbx, it sounds like you really haven't retired yet. I am about to though. They're getting more difficult to work on, especially underneath, the older I get.....and I am older than I'd admit..
 
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